In the middle of planning the new laundry room in the basement.
A lot of plaster has fallen from the walls, something I have tried to repair since I want a smooth surface to tile on. Now I feel like I don't master this, and I don't want the tiles to come loose in the future.
An idea struck me, to frame up with steel studs and install moisture-resistant drywall from byggmax or similar. This way, I get both a smooth surface to tile on and an installation space behind. Of course, I won't insulate anything.
Are there any risks with this construction?
A lot of plaster has fallen from the walls, something I have tried to repair since I want a smooth surface to tile on. Now I feel like I don't master this, and I don't want the tiles to come loose in the future.
An idea struck me, to frame up with steel studs and install moisture-resistant drywall from byggmax or similar. This way, I get both a smooth surface to tile on and an installation space behind. Of course, I won't insulate anything.
Are there any risks with this construction?
If your drainage is the cause of plaster detachment, there is quite a large risk.. 
I would probably try to tile your foundation walls and plastered surfaces if you have the opportunity every time.
I would probably try to tile your foundation walls and plastered surfaces if you have the opportunity every time.
You don't need to polish yourself. It won't be more expensive to hire a skilled craftsman to polish it up and then you can paint it yourself. The cost of the materials and work for what you're describing is a large project, and you'll likely hire a tiler unless you're experienced yourself?
I have seen both types of solutions. We ourselves chose to install steel studs and wet room plasterboard in the laundry room, which is in the basement. We checked the solution quite carefully and there are a few important things to consider for it to work. I’ll get back to it.
We wanted a higher standard in the laundry room than just painted plaster. Tiling on plaster didn't seem relevant because then we would probably have to grind down and remove all the old plaster that was lime-based to re-plaster with a stronger plaster. Lime-based plaster is good, but if it gets a bit too wet, I don't believe it supports tiles well. I'm not an expert on plaster, but my feeling is that plaster is not an optimal substrate for tiles.
Then you get an additional positive effect from installing wet room plasterboard because it enhances the comfort of the space and doesn't feel like a bongo drum.
We chose to lay ceramic tiles on the floor and install steel studs and plasterboard on the outer walls. We then made the plasterboard into a wet room with painted wet room fabric. It turned out fresh and can also be repainted in the future if needed. Tiles can become dull over a longer time. On the floor, we laid gray ceramic tiles that I think can be called variegated, meaning they are not uniformly gray but have a few different shades of gray, making them understated but fresh and easy to keep clean.
We wanted to build the laundry room to function for 20-30 years and be able to be refreshed without tearing out and redoing. Being able to repaint the painted wet room fabric feels good. We chose a white wet room paint, gray floor, and the interior served as the color splash. For example, we chose a board for the workbench that has a good contrast in color against the other surfaces.
Regarding the inner paneling, many warn against this. Internally built-up basements have created moisture and odor problems for many. This is largely because the wrong materials and constructions have been chosen.
It's possible to paint with wet room paint without applying fabric, but then it doesn't quite meet the same moisture requirements.
When it comes to construction and choice of materials, I’m happy to share my experience if it’s of interest.
It's important to do it right and choose the right material. For instance, there are several types of wet room boards, and in my opinion, not all of them are suitable for such a construction but may be better suited for a traditional bathroom not located in a basement.
You can also plaster and apply tiles, but when I researched this, I found that the wall construction is important, regardless of whether you choose tiles, painted wet room fabric, or painted wet room.
The advantage of tiles or painted wet room surfaces is that they withstand water and are therefore easier to keep clean.
I can describe how we chose to construct the wall in another post.
We wanted a higher standard in the laundry room than just painted plaster. Tiling on plaster didn't seem relevant because then we would probably have to grind down and remove all the old plaster that was lime-based to re-plaster with a stronger plaster. Lime-based plaster is good, but if it gets a bit too wet, I don't believe it supports tiles well. I'm not an expert on plaster, but my feeling is that plaster is not an optimal substrate for tiles.
Then you get an additional positive effect from installing wet room plasterboard because it enhances the comfort of the space and doesn't feel like a bongo drum.
We chose to lay ceramic tiles on the floor and install steel studs and plasterboard on the outer walls. We then made the plasterboard into a wet room with painted wet room fabric. It turned out fresh and can also be repainted in the future if needed. Tiles can become dull over a longer time. On the floor, we laid gray ceramic tiles that I think can be called variegated, meaning they are not uniformly gray but have a few different shades of gray, making them understated but fresh and easy to keep clean.
We wanted to build the laundry room to function for 20-30 years and be able to be refreshed without tearing out and redoing. Being able to repaint the painted wet room fabric feels good. We chose a white wet room paint, gray floor, and the interior served as the color splash. For example, we chose a board for the workbench that has a good contrast in color against the other surfaces.
Regarding the inner paneling, many warn against this. Internally built-up basements have created moisture and odor problems for many. This is largely because the wrong materials and constructions have been chosen.
It's possible to paint with wet room paint without applying fabric, but then it doesn't quite meet the same moisture requirements.
When it comes to construction and choice of materials, I’m happy to share my experience if it’s of interest.
It's important to do it right and choose the right material. For instance, there are several types of wet room boards, and in my opinion, not all of them are suitable for such a construction but may be better suited for a traditional bathroom not located in a basement.
You can also plaster and apply tiles, but when I researched this, I found that the wall construction is important, regardless of whether you choose tiles, painted wet room fabric, or painted wet room.
The advantage of tiles or painted wet room surfaces is that they withstand water and are therefore easier to keep clean.
I can describe how we chose to construct the wall in another post.
I'd be happy to. Could you check a few things first to make my reflections and tips better?simpa81 said:
In certain years, something called träullit was used as interior insulation on the exterior walls, which were then plastered and painted. I know that interior insulation is taboo according to today's "experts," but in these houses, träullit has existed for 55-70 years, which is a pretty good test in my eyes. Experts wanted to remove träullit from our home, and I asked why. The response was that interior insulation is wrong. To which I replied that träullit has been in place for over 65 years in this house without damage or causing damage. This conversation was with people I knew, so I couldn't help but ask how well today's solutions have been tested. For example, how are today's drainage systems tested? We quickly put the dialogue aside, and as you understand, the träullit is still in place, and my assessment is that it will remain there for another 50-70 years unless a new owner follows expert advice and removes it.
Träullit is wood shavings saturated with cement formed into boards. They are resistant to moisture variations, and micro-bacterial growth like mold doesn’t thrive unless organic material is introduced.
For me, it's good to know what the exterior walls look like and whether it's just plaster or if there is träullit. There are usually boreholes to check, or you can make a hole. You don’t need a hammer drill if it's lime plaster, and then you see if it’s träullit or if you hit the concrete wall.
It's also interesting to know what the basement walls are made of. In old basement houses, they could be built with concrete blocks. In some periods, the walls were cast in concrete, and there have also been, for example, leca blocks used.
What year was the house built?
Do you know if there is träullit on the inside of the exterior wall? (or can you check). The age of the house is significant.
To make it work well, we have chosen to make different solutions in the different rooms of the basement, but at the same time, they are parts of a holistic solution that should make the entire basement feel good and maintain a good standard.
Could you make a hand-drawn sketch of the basement? It doesn’t need to be perfect; a sketch is enough. It would be good if you can mark where vents, windows, doors, stairs are, as well as other room functions or future desired functions.
I'll try to collect the above questions here:
Year of construction of the house?
What are the basement walls made of?
Is there a chimney from, for instance, an old boiler in the basement?
Is there interior insulation in the form of träullit behind the plaster?
Can you make a hand-drawn sketch of the basement as described above?
If you feel like uploading some pictures from the basement? Preferably more, but at least specifically the room that will be refurbished as a laundry room.
Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures right now.
The basement walls consist of betoghålsten. The room is an extension of the house. The house was built in '49 but this part was added as a garage around '55. The walls are plastered, and the plaster is very crumbly, which is why I don't believe it can support tiles.
Externally, it is drained and there is some prehistoric platonmatta.
There is no chimney in this part of the basement. No internal insulation.
The basement walls consist of betoghålsten. The room is an extension of the house. The house was built in '49 but this part was added as a garage around '55. The walls are plastered, and the plaster is very crumbly, which is why I don't believe it can support tiles.
Externally, it is drained and there is some prehistoric platonmatta.
There is no chimney in this part of the basement. No internal insulation.
Okay, a sketch of the basement's layout with windows, doors, vents, etc. would be helpful. When I began trying to find reasonably secure solutions to achieve a higher standard in the basement, it was necessary to see the whole picture and not take it room by room.
Happy New Year
Happy New Year
Update: have started installing the steel studs now. I've asked around with some construction engineers, and they give a thumbs up to this. Will be installing some vent on each wall so that the air behind the drywall can circulate.