Shelf rails on drywall

[Kjell-Anders]

I am going to install a number of shelf tracks (Sparring) with brackets on a plasterboard wall, which I haven't had a chance to check yet. I don't know if it's single or double plasterboard, but most likely there is no chipboard or similar behind it.

In your experience, which fasteners are best? Easy removal with minimal holes can be disregarded. Of course, I will attach as many tracks as possible to the studs if I can, and of course, I will mount the tracks as high as possible since the axial load (straight out from the hole) is greatest at the top.

It is an association archive that will be stored in the shelving system, so there will be quite a few books and binders.

My first thought is, of course, Molly, to distribute the load over as large an area as possible in the plasterboard, but I have also considered the foldable variant with a mini U-track that sets itself across behind the hole.

 

[MasMats]

I can really recommend a hanging rail that you attach to the wall at the ceiling. There is usually a stud behind. Wood screws right in.

Then you hang your vertical shelf profiles on the hanging rail. Very easy and convenient to move/adjust/change. Thanks to not having attached each profile to the wall, these can be moved along the rail in the ceiling.

 

[Kjell-Anders]

Can definitely recommend a hanging rail that you attach to the wall at the ceiling. There is usually a stud behind there. Wood screws right in.

Then you hang your vertical shelf profiles on the hanging rail.
Very easy and convenient to move /adjust/change, thanks to not attaching each profile to the wall, but these can be moved along the rail in the ceiling.

Thanks for the tip!
I have actually been considering that option, it's convenient. The question is what load the system can withstand.

 

[Trafikverket1]

I think Fischer duopower works very well. Otherwise, there are a variety of drywall anchors of different kinds, such as essve duck foot.

 

[z_bumbi]

Thanks for the tip!
I've actually considered that option, as it's quite convenient. The question is what load the system can handle.

You can still screw each individual rail, then set them closer together and screw them, so it can handle more than the specified value. You can wait until you've checked the weight you can actually fit.

 

[Kjell-Anders]

You can still screw each individual rail, so if you set them closer together and screw them, it can withstand more than the specified value. You can wait until you check the weight you actually have room for.

I'm going to look at the space this afternoon. The wall studs are probably placed with c/c 600 mm, if I can attach rails to every other stud, I can have a 400 mm spacing in between. Maybe in combination with a hanging rail.
Unfortunately, I haven't found longer hanging rails than a little over a meter, it would have been perfect to attach to three studs.

 

[Testarn]

I will look at the location this afternoon. Probably the wall studs are set with c/c 600 mm, if I can attach rails to every other stud you can have a 400 mm division in between. Maybe in combination with a hanging rail.
Unfortunately, I haven't found longer hanging rails than just over a meter, it would have been perfect to be able to attach to three studs.

We installed hanging rails and there were at least two-meter lengths available. When it was set up, I could put screws in every stud and it becomes very strong.

 

[Oskick]

Can highly recommend Elfa's shelving system (carrier rail/hanging rail as @MasMats mentioned).
Available at B-huset if you want to browse around a bit.
Can also be combined with Lundbergs' parts.

 

[Ossian K Olsson]

I will be mounting several shelving tracks (Sparring) with brackets on a drywall, which I haven't had the opportunity to check yet. I don't know if it's single or double drywall, but in all likelihood, there's no particleboard or similar behind it.

According to your experience, which fasteners are the best? Easy removal with minimal holes can be disregarded. Of course, I will attach as many tracks as possible to the studs if possible, and just as obvious, I will mount the tracks as high as possible, since it's at the top where the axial load (straight out from the hole) is greatest.

It's an association archive that will be stored in the shelving system, so there will be quite a few books and binders.

My first thought is, of course, Molly, to spread the load over as large an area as possible in the drywall, but I've also considered the folding variant with a mini u-channel that sets itself across behind the hole.

Is appearance important? You can screw horizontal studs onto the wall, which you then attach the tracks to! Studs that are screwed into the studs inside the wall.

 

[MasMats]

I can strongly recommend Elfa's shelving system (support beam/hanging rail as @MasMats mentioned).
Available at B-huset if you want to browse around a bit.
Can also be combined with Lundbergs parts.

Exactly, it's possible to mix parts. Both Jula and Byggmax have similar systems. It's important to check that they fit each other. I picked up parts from various places to get it the way I wanted. But not all parts fit with all, so it requires a bit of effort to avoid buying a pig in a poke.

 

[z_bumbi]

Elfa classic (the one with the hanging rail) and sparring have different depths on the tracks. Everything I've tested from sparring works in classic. Nothing I've tested from classic works in sparring. If you are not going to use click-in shelves/other accessories, you can buy brackets from both for classic. For an archive, I imagine you choose or make sturdy shelving and then choose the brackets. Hanging rails are available in several lengths and can be easily cut with a regular hacksaw if the dimensions don't match. I only have Elfa as other brands are rarely much cheaper, I know it fits, and I have Elfa as old as myself in the workshop.

Openness
I have sold Elfa in a smaller capacity as part of a larger range but I no longer do so, so I have no financial interest.

 

[Kjell-Anders]

Is appearance important? You can attach horizontal battens on the outside of the wall, which you then secure the tracks to! Battens that are screwed into the studs inside the wall.

Yes, the appearance is important enough that this solution is out of the question. I think (there should also be a small study in the room).