Build "portal" from old doorway, and enclosure of Pipes

[pwrdesign]

Hello everyone!

I'm in the process of renovating an apartment a bit, I have removed two door frames and plan to build a nice portal out of them... I have some ideas on how to do it but would need some input!

The door opening looks like this after I just tore out the frames..
I have filled in some of the worst holes with filler

http://img223.imageshack.us/my.php?image=photoue6.jpg

http://img237.imageshack.us/my.php?image=photo2ue5.jpg

My idea was to place a board, maybe MDF, around the entire opening, on the surfaces that face into the door opening. I thought the board should be a little too wide so that I can then attach moldings to the walls, fill, sand, and paint. I thought the MDF pieces could be attached with spacers that are either screwed into the wall or maybe glued up with something like PL400. That way I can space out a nice and straight portal that I then attach the pieces to...

See sketch (the portal seen from below):



Does that sound like a good way?

My other question concerns a pipe.
In one of the corners of the hallway, there's a drain pipe that I have to enclose somehow..
How would you do it?
Build a "box" around it, or maybe make an angled corner?

 

[Daniel_N]

Hello everyone!

I'm renovating an apartment a bit, I've removed two door frames and am planning to build a nice portal from these...I have some ideas on how to do it but would need some input!

The door opening looks like this after I've just torn down the frames..
I've filled and spackled a bit to fill the worst holes

[link]

[link]

My idea was to place a plank, maybe MDF, around the entire hole, on the surfaces that look into the door opening, that is. I thought the plank could be a bit too wide so that I can then put moldings on the walls, spackle, sand, and paint. I thought of attaching the MDF pieces with spacers that either screw into the wall or perhaps are glued up with something like PL400. That way I can space out a nice and straight portal which I then attach the pieces to..

See sketch (portal seen from below):

[bild][bild]

Does it sound like a good method?

My second question concerns a pipe.
In one of the corners in the hallway, there's a drain pipe that I need to enclose somehow..
How would you do it?
Build a "box" around it, or maybe make a sloped corner?

Hi!

Exciting project. I have built a similar "portal" myself in both lightweight concrete and plaster walls. In both cases, I did it almost the same way.

1, Get very straight construction studs. Let them dry inside your place to your indoor climate, as long as possible

2, Perform reversing with veering as described in the second post of this thread: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/74328-bygga-doerr-som-inte-slar-sig.html It's truly a great method! Now you have nice straight studs.

3, Rip the studs so that they are 45*the width of the wall (important that you didn't buy too flimsy studs to begin with, as reversing with veering removes the width of a saw blade.

4, Fasten the studs with, for example, frame screws or screws and plugs to the wall (both on the sides and upwards, of course). Here it is extremely important that it is plumb and level on all sides, but also, which may not be as obvious, that the stud doesn't "twist." What I mean by that I hope is clear from the attached Word document, "Portal 1". If there's any risk of moisture creeping up from below, it's a good idea to use a layer of roofing felt underneath, or to leave the stud a few cm from the floor.

5, if you are to have a continuous, thresholdless floor between rooms, like parquet, lay this now. Of course with the typical distances to the walls, meaning the studs in this case. This can also be done before step 4.

6, Now cover everything with MDF. It's best to cover so that the joint is visible when standing inside the portal and looking "into the concrete wall," meaning whole pieces towards the respective rooms. Glue with regular wood glue, I've used the indoor variant, though some prefer exterior wood glue because it allows for a bit of movement, but I think indoor wood glue has worked well. Screw, with countersink and pre-drilled holes. Screw both in the stud and cautiously in the "end grain" of the MDF board in the middle.

7, If you've measured correctly and been careful, the MDF board will now cover the stud and the distance between the existing concrete wall and the stud, and extend a few cm onto the concrete wall (depending on how wide you want the MDF strip to be). Do not glue or screw the MDF strip into the concrete wall, it should just lie snugly next to it. On the one hand, the MDF strip is already attached sufficiently, on the other hand, you avoid problems if for some reason there were to be movement between the concrete wall and the stud. As mentioned, if you are careful, and the concrete wall is reasonably straight, the MDF strip lies snug against the wall. A very small bead of latex in the corner between the MDF strip and the concrete wall might be a good idea, but at a later stage. Let the MDF strip extend down and join the flooring, no need for moldings or similar. Remember to gently bevel the edges of the MDF so it's more resilient and the paint adheres better. However, it doesn't need to be much at all.

8, Prime, spackle, sand, paint, etc.

 

[holmertz]

Keep in mind that kitschy things like portals, orange kitchen cabinets, and even plastic parquet make the apartment less attractive and decrease its value if you are planning to sell. It results in poor bidding because buyers would rather wait for another object before making an offer.

 

[konichiwa girl]

Eh, if it had been a pizza portal, I could understand your point holmertz, but just a plain straightforward portal? What's kitschy about it?

 

[pwrdesign]

Not really keeping up either?
We are going to install nice Italian clinker flooring in the kitchen, hall, and walk-in closet, the kitchen cabinets are white, and the portal will be white and sleek

However, I think it RAISES the value compared to having a bunch of moldings everywhere

Anyway...
I've started gluing up spacers now with PL400, I think it'll be good!
It actually becomes straight too!
I plan to prime the spacers before installing the MDF trim.
I also plan to buy pre-painted white trims to cover the portal with, I think it will result in a nicer finish (and simpler) than patching, priming, and painting.

Regards, Patrik

 

[Farzan]

I was also thinking of buying pre-painted white moldings to cover the portal with, I think it will result in a nicer (and easier) finish than puttying, priming, and painting.

Easier, yes. Nicer, very rarely, in my opinion.

 

[erikssonkarin]

Hello everyone!

I'm renovating an apartment a bit, removed two door frames and I'm thinking of building a nice archway from them... I have some ideas on how to do it but could use some input!

The door opening looks like this after I've just demolished the frames..
I've applied some filler to fill in the worst holes

[link]

[link]

My idea was to place a plank, maybe MDF, around the entire hole, on the surfaces that face towards the door opening. I thought the plank should be a bit too wide so that I can then add moldings on the walls, spackle, sand and paint. I thought of fastening the MDF pieces with spacers that are either screwed into the wall or perhaps glued up with something like PL400. This way I can space up a nice and straight archway which I then attach the pieces to...

See sketch (archway seen from below):

[bild][bild]

Does that sound like a good approach?

My second question concerns a pipe.
In one of the corners of the hallway, there is a drain pipe that I need to encase in some way..
What would you do?
Build a "box" around it, or perhaps make a slanted corner?

Hi! I have a similar project going on. Do you happen to have any pictures of how it turned out?