Building Materials and Construction Technology
justusandersson: According to the section drawing (from the renovation), it's just a regular ceiling joist in the attic that supports the attic floor, but when you look closely at the last photographs, you see a post that is probably vertical and seems to have been added afterwards. I didn't notice it initially due to the perspective, but it is clear that it can change the conditions. When I scrutinize the
justusandersson: Even small studs can handle large vertical loads as long as they are prevented from buckling, for example, by fastening strong sheet material on both sides.
ChristoferR: Kiilto Pro light fine. Very easy to work with and when dried is almost completely white. Spackled my entire house (large surfaces and plasterboard) with dalapro and kiilto. You can buy it at hornbach.
Nodaubt: It has leaked in there, but it's not the actual outer roof, rather the wooden structure under the balcony/roof, a house with 1.5 stories with a sloped roof. I thought if it becomes condensation, it will settle between the insulation and the "tape". What I have done is tape together a water-repellent paper that was there from the start. The sealing is done on the outside.
Linus Larsson: Hello! I'm building a single-story house with a 195 mm frame. The house structure is up and the exterior is finished. I plan to add two layers of 45x45 studs inside the main frame. Should I install the middle 45 horizontally and then the innermost vertically? Or vice versa? The latter option should create less thermal bridging? My idea is thus 195+45 (horizontal) + 45 (vertical). There are many
pjapen: Since you have redone the drainage (I hope) and insulated externally, you should not have any problems with moisture coming into the concrete slab. This is the main concern when it comes to moisture in basements and surface materials that don't hold up. Then you have chosen surface materials that are inorganic, which is the best choice. All suppliers of primer have diffusion-open variants, weber,
fb35523: I think the plaster has served its time and may have been affected by moisture over the decades. Have you drained or are you sure the drainage works? If not, you can fix this as much as you like, the problems will still persist. Sure, you can remove the plaster and apply new, perhaps a better material than plaster, but the moisture will seep through and discolor the surface. If it's not a living
apriljox: Hello, I have a house from 1968 with the classic recreation room and a sauna with a shower built on top of the wooden floor in the recreation room. No fireplace, unfortunately. I think it smells, not mold but like a summer cabin/basement/damp. Some days the bad smell seeps up to the living floor because the staircase is open. The rest of the basement has concrete walls and concrete floors and it
Stefan N: If space is limited, insert spån between the studs, then float with reinforcement.
toolman77: [citat] To bomb something is to make it convex. That is, to give the riser a slight rounding at the top so that it only contacts the tread above at one point. This prevents the wooden parts from sliding against each other and reduces creaking.
Bamboozled: Brief update! The store that did the installation has now made the beam exchange by agreement and is covering the cost. The cut floor joist was both doubled and exchanged against the nearest roof beam. The municipality has received the corresponding addition to the already completed building notification and has approved it, so it seems I can sleep well for the moment!
Irma2: Thank you for the advice and tips. I'll check it out a bit :D
Lars Efternamn: The solution: stone wool pressed downwards and upwards with a substantial amount of mortar with small pieces of brick on it. Had to support upwards with the mortar on a thicker cardboard, if it gets stuck it doesn't matter, it doesn't hurt if it burns up. Called a stove shop and that's what they did in similar situations
Ricky_84: I am looking for 2 garage doors, preferably Hörman brand, the dimensions are 2.5m wide and 2.125m high...
Michael Till: Thank you for the response. So it is as I thought. That the wall towards the angle is load-bearing, I understood of course.
piapcs: Hello, I am going to lay granite ceramic tiles on the ledge of my front steps outside (under a roof as there is a balcony above, but still outdoors) and now I'm wondering how I can make it waterproof. The ledge at the top of the steps is made of concrete and is quite large (about 1.5x3 meters) and has a couple of cracks. I'm wondering if I should apply some kind of membrane on the ledge before
jonko: I would have built a mold and cast a plinth to place the road on.
magnu: [citat] That's why I have a test piece where I try out the perfect angle degree by degree. When the angles are perfect, I cut the piece that I plan to put up. Not all angles in a house are 90 degrees, often they are 88, 89, or 92 degrees. Then it doesn't look good to miter at 45 degrees.
Stefan N: https://www.grabber.se/Skruv-och-infastning/Gipsskruv/GHX26Z200
thomaslj: Hello I have had a company come over to look at our issue. The company is one of the established firms specializing directly in sill replacement. Their proposal is to remove a few layers of bricks, cut the lightweight concrete blocks, and then extract the outer wall sill. After treating the surface, the plan was to pour concrete back into the foundation, install a new sill on the slab, and close
Gukken: If you are casting a foundation slab in a house, it is usually the w/c ratio that governs the strength of the concrete. The water-cement ratio controls the relationship between the water and the cement in the concrete. The less water there is, the higher the strength in the mix. You typically want to have a low w/c ≤ 0.50 for drying purposes, especially in bathrooms. In the project I'm working
RuneB2: Hello! I'm about to tidy up the basement stairs and in doing so, also tidy up the walls. I have a couple of questions as we plan to put up tongue and groove paneling. Is it painted Masonite? Can I glue the tongue and groove paneling on or should I take down the boards?
Fundersam99: We are going to seal a window 80X120 and I have an MDF board to spare, does it work to use that instead of buying a chipboard? The room has chipboard with old wallpaper but I might possibly put renovation gypsum over the chipboard/MDF. There is no air gap between the chipboard/MDF, insulation, wind barrier and horizontal paneling.
Annananna: Should you then simply apply a little poorly with mortar against the real wall, so that there are a lot of air pockets?
Papphammar666: A thousand years later, I have the same problem, but the previous owner has drilled in antennas for 2 TVs in the basement and turned off the "expensive" heat for 30 years...resulting in peeling paint and wallpaper, cold and smells like parmesan. Now I've turned on the heat and added 2 more heaters...installed natural ventilation. The result is no moisture or smell, everything is dry... How can I