Hello. I would like to know how to fit 90-degree corner moldings around window edges. I don't know how to miter them with the saw so that they fit together and meet nicely around the window edges (see pictures).

If it were regular flat window trims, I would just miter 45 degrees on both so that they meet nicely at the edge..

Grateful for help.
 
  • A hand holding a white 90-degree corner bead trim piece, showing its angled edge and wooden core against a wooden floor background.
  • White corner trim piece on wooden floor next to a fringed rug, related to fitting corner trims around window edges.
  • Corner of a window frame with poorly aligned 90-degree edge trims, circled in yellow, highlighting the issue of fitting the trims neatly.
You can also cut 45 degrees now. The important thing to keep in mind is how the molding is positioned when you cut through it.
If you want to cut from the "front," it's best to place the molding in the saw with a square board inside the 90-degree angle so that it lies stably.
If you want to cut from the "back," place the molding with the "front" down against the saw table.
 
M McNulty said:
You can miter 45 degrees now as well. The important thing to consider is how the molding is positioned when you cut through it.
If you want to cut from the "front," it's best to place the molding in the saw with a square board inside the 90-degree angle so that it lies stable.
If you want to cut from the "back," place the molding with the "front" facing down toward the saw table.
Okay. Thank you for the response. So the white-painted front side should be facing up when I cut. With a block behind for stability. Will these 45-degree cuts make the corner moldings meet nicely in the window corners?
 
Yes, if the white-painted front is facing upwards, you can think about it the same way as with regular trim. There will then be a 45-degree meeting even on the angled side.
 
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Hammare&Spik
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Hammare&Spik Hammare&Spik said:
Okay. Thanks for the response. So the white-painted front should face up when I cut. With a block behind for stability.
not for the stability. That's just a bonus.
The molding must rest on the block for you to get the 45-degree miter correctly oriented.

Make sure to buy a little extra molding so you can test cut a few shorter pieces and test that way.
 
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Hammare&Spik
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Now I have tried to miter these lists. I can start by stating that a 45g cut is not enough. You need to make two cuts, one straight and one 45g that meets the straight cut precisely.
Not very easy with a large miter saw...
I haven't developed a good technique yet.
 
You're complicating things, a 45-degree is perfectly sufficient if done correctly.
 
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Then you're doing it wrong, they're going with a 45 average.
 
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Hammare&Spik
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Then I would appreciate if a kind person could explain how a 45-degree cut allows both moldings to meet around the window as shown in the picture I sent. I really don't understand how:
 
How should one hold it in the saw? Image 1, 2, or 3?
 
  • Close-up of a miter saw cutting a piece of wood at a specific angle, highlighting the hand position options in woodworking setup.
  • A miter saw with a piece of wood positioned for cutting, used for discussing proper handling technique.
  • A miter saw positioned at a specific angle, with a piece of wood placed for cutting. The question is about proper hand placement.
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Gstrand60
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Either like 2 or 3.
However, the saw doesn't appear to be at 45 degrees...
 
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Dowser4711
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You should place the molding in the miter saw in the same way that the molding will be positioned in the window.
 
P
Think just the same as if it were a regular molding around the window, cut a couple of shorter pieces at 45 degrees and test how they should meet.
 
2 or 3 and angle the blade 45, not rotate the table 45.
 
P
Isn't it unnecessarily complicated, imho:thinking:
 
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