Insulating interior wall (brick) - best method?

[1881]

We live in an older property built at the end of the 1800s. In one corner, there is a small toilet where we have torn down the plaster on the walls. The exterior walls (two of them) will be insulated with lightweight concrete, but we are considering taking a (cheap and easy) shortcut with one of the interior walls, which is made of brick. The wall is approximately 2.5 m high and 1.5 m wide.

Since it is not an exterior wall, we are considering:
- first putting up some studs...
- ... then attaching a wooden board...
- ... then screwing a plasterboard onto it...

The question is, will this cause any problems? As mentioned, it is not an exterior wall, so no air gap is needed. We have no "moisture load" since there is no shower. It is just a toilet and a sink.

Note that I am not asking about the exterior walls, this concerns only the interior brick wall.

 

[anaitis]

It will probably be fine.
An alternative is to glue the drywall directly to the existing wall with drywall compound.

 

[OlssoniVallby]

That should work fine.
An alternative is to glue the plasterboards directly to the existing wall with plaster compound.

Hi
Yes, that's a good alternative since neither air gap nor insulation is needed.
If you use moisture-resistant gypsum, that is...
Then it's a good and stable solution to plaster the wall directly on the frame. The outer walls should be plastered anyway, and the inner wall is so small that it's neither difficult nor expensive.

 

[1881]

Thank you for the response.

The interior wall facing the outer wall will be insulated with lightweight concrete and therefore will not be plastered.

As for the interior wall facing the inside, it is uneven and it would be too much work to plaster it and then glue a plasterboard. The whole point of plasterboard on studs is that it would be quick.

Tricky this.

 

[OlssoniVallby]

Thanks for the response.

The interior wall that faces the exterior wall will be insulated with lättbetong and therefore will not be plastered.

Regarding the interior wall that faces the inside, it is uneven, and it would be too much work to plaster it before then gluing a drywall. The point of the drywall on studs is that it would be done quickly.

It's tricky.

Aren't you going to plaster the lättbetong?? What finish are you going to have then?
My thought was not to put up drywall before you plaster it, just plaster and then a finish.

 

[1881]

Yes, the aerated concrete against the outer wall should be spackled, but I don't see any problems there.

The problem is the inner wall, which consists of an uneven brick wall. To avoid having to plaster to death, I was simply thinking of installing some metal studs, which I would then glue the gypsum board onto. This will create a small air gap, but as mentioned, it's an inner wall. Shouldn't that work?

 

[OlssoniVallby]

Yes, the aerated concrete against the outer wall should be skimmed, but I don't see any problems there.

The problem is the interior wall, which consists of an uneven brick wall. To avoid excessive plastering, I thought I'd simply attach some metal studs and then glue the drywall onto them. That way, there will be a small air gap, but as mentioned, it is an interior wall. Shouldn't that work?

Yes, it works. It builds at least 45+13 mm more than plastering the surface, even more if you want to have Plyfa/OSB behind to screw something up. But if that's okay, it works. You can more easily run electrical, set fireboxes, and run water then. Don't forget insulation, even if it's not needed. Otherwise, it sounds hollow and empty.

 

[1881]

Yes, it works. It does add at least 45+13 mm more than just plastering the surface, even more if you want plywood/OSB behind to mount something. But if that doesn't matter, it works. It's easier to run electricity, install outlets, and run water that way. Don't forget insulation, even if it's not necessary. Otherwise, it sounds hollow and empty.

Exactly! And just as you wrote, I was thinking of reinforcing the drywall with, for example, OSB behind it, but then I got worried about having a wood panel in the construction. As I said, it's not an exterior wall, but the question is whether one should still be concerned about it becoming damp and smelling bad over time?

 

[OlssoniVallby]

Exactly! And just as you mentioned, I considered reinforcing the drywall with an OSB board behind it but became worried about introducing a wood panel into the construction. As mentioned, it's not an exterior wall, but the question is whether there's reason to be concerned about it becoming damp and smelling bad over time?

I don't think you need to worry about moisture. It depends a bit on the floor, of course. There shouldn't be any moisture coming from the toilet. In that case, it's the connection to the exterior wall, but if you have the drywall connect to the lightweight concrete, it's no problem. If you want to be sure and put a bit more energy into it, and save some thickness, you can set the steel studs with the drywall directly on them and cut the plywood to fit between the studs. This way it doesn't add to the thickness. Then you also don't need to extend it all the way down, you can stop it 20-30 cm from the floor. There's generally not much need to attach anything there anyway.