Coming home and the whole ceiling has collapsed :(

[Derbyboy]

It will be exciting. I have put up my Huntonit Symphony using brads and drywall screws. No glue. But it's been up for 2 years without moving. I will glue it next time just to be safe

Still holding up?

 

[Ramnemark]

Still up there?

In all of my rooms. So 6-7 years at the longest. But if you want to be on the safe side, you can put a drywall screw in the groove of each sheet for security.

 

[Derbyboy]

I have already set up my.....trying to figure out how to install the crown molding (standard concave 15x33) since the drywall screws made big craters.....sigh

only realized afterward that I wouldn't be able to get the molding flush against the ceiling and wall

 

[Ramnemark]

I have already put mine up.....trying to figure out how to put up the crown molding (regular cove 15x33) since the drywall screws made big craters.....sigh

realized only afterward that I wouldn't get the molding flush against ceiling and wall

I have crown moldings that are around 50x50 (kind of swan neck?) to cover all the screw holes outside

 

[Derbyboy]

Doesn't work for me. It would be a stylistic break without equal

 

[jonaserik]

Too small ceiling molding, same here with Huntonit and a little drilling by hand as insurance, then the board won't get any valkari. To cover it, I have a cornice 50x50 mm, no problem to push into the crease and screw with looooong thin list screws that go through everything and attach to the wood behind. The screws should be staggered, one in the ceiling and one in the wall, to avoid gaps. My screws are spaced about 400 mm apart.

 

[Ramnemark]

For a small ceiling moulding, the same here with Huntonit and a little drilling by hand for insurance, that way the board won't warp. To cover, I use 50x50 mm hollow trim, no problem pressing it into the seam and screwing with loooooong thin moulding screws that go through everything and attach to the timber behind. The screws should be staggered, one in the ceiling and one in the wall, to avoid gaps. My screws are spaced about 400 mm apart.

Why not attach the mouldings with a brad nailer?

 

[jonaserik]

Why not put up the moldings with a nail gun?

The thing with nailing ceiling moldings and baseboards is a hassle; if the nail doesn't pull as it should or comes in a bit crooked, the moldings don't sit properly. How do you get the nail out then? With screws, you just unscrew it and tilt a little sideways; then with wallpapering or painting, it becomes tricky without being able to remove the moldings without them cracking.

 

[Derbyboy]

I have already set the ceiling with drywall screws and created craters so that my thin fine crown moldings can't lie flush against the ceiling.

These are small rooms, 238cm in ceiling height, thin moldings, thin baseboards, etc., so 50x50 ceiling moldings are not an option (I think right now).

As I see it, I have two options.

1) Ignore that they don't lie flush (we're talking about 2-3 mm)

2) Unscrew all drywall screws. Sand down the crater. Use staples or pre-drill and screw all the edges again.

3) Put up the moldings as best as possible with the current craters. Use a thin sealant against the ceiling (tech7).

So!

What do you say, friends?

 

[jonaserik]

The Huntonite has an ability to be squeezed out right at the screw head and there will also be a small elevation (ridge) outside the head, happened with me, I took a new mora and cut away the ridge that was formed when the screw was pressed in. The ceiling molding is flush with the wall/ceiling.

 

[Ramnemark]

I have always pre-drilled for the drywall screw. If the ceiling doesn't pull with the nail, I shoot another one in the same spot?