I am going to build a chase around drainage pipes and a short interior wall in a small studio. The building is from 1964, and the ceiling, floor, and walls are made of concrete. I have demolished some interior walls made of 7 cm light concrete and subsequently had a company pour leveling compound over the entire apartment to create a more open floor plan, a larger kitchen, and to lay parquet flooring later. The leveling was done last fall, so it should be completely dry by now.
Now, I am going to frame a new interior wall and build a chase to conceal some exposed drainage pipes that were installed through the apartment during a plumbing renovation.
My question is if there is anything specific I need to consider when framing this wall. The wall will be a short piece, 120 cm, and the chase will be approximately 30 x 100 cm. I plan to use 70x45 mm studs and cover with plywood and wood paneling. I will probably fill the wall with insulation so that it doesn't sound hollow.
My intention is to nail the studs to the floor, wall, and ceiling with expansion nails. Since there is a warm basement under the apartment, I am not worried about moisture migration. Both the walls, ceiling, and floor should be bone dry after 55 years. However, I still wonder if there is anything specific I should consider. Will the wooden studs move? Should there be room for movement, and if so, how much?
When I Google "framing on concrete," I only find advice about sealing strips or metal studs on house foundations, but I assume that is entirely unnecessary in this situation. Is there any knowledgeable carpenter here who can give some good advice or help with a link or literature tips? Or is it just a matter of measuring, cutting, nailing, and being happy?
Now, I am going to frame a new interior wall and build a chase to conceal some exposed drainage pipes that were installed through the apartment during a plumbing renovation.
My question is if there is anything specific I need to consider when framing this wall. The wall will be a short piece, 120 cm, and the chase will be approximately 30 x 100 cm. I plan to use 70x45 mm studs and cover with plywood and wood paneling. I will probably fill the wall with insulation so that it doesn't sound hollow.
My intention is to nail the studs to the floor, wall, and ceiling with expansion nails. Since there is a warm basement under the apartment, I am not worried about moisture migration. Both the walls, ceiling, and floor should be bone dry after 55 years. However, I still wonder if there is anything specific I should consider. Will the wooden studs move? Should there be room for movement, and if so, how much?
When I Google "framing on concrete," I only find advice about sealing strips or metal studs on house foundations, but I assume that is entirely unnecessary in this situation. Is there any knowledgeable carpenter here who can give some good advice or help with a link or literature tips? Or is it just a matter of measuring, cutting, nailing, and being happy?
When a craftsman installed a new interior wall in this apartment, he used steel studs. They do not move, so the risk of cracking at the wall-ceiling angle is reduced, and so on.
Have lived in a real concrete bunker of an apartment from the 70s. All interior walls were framed in wood and it worked well.
Hi
I once built an interior wall in a concrete house from the 70s. I used metal tracks against the floor and ceiling, as these had a thin, glued insulation strip on them. It absorbed irregularities, dampened sound by sealing between the wall and the ceiling/floor. It also dampened sound from the floor above by, so to speak, isolating the wall construction from the concrete a little. The metal track is really intended for use with metal studs, but I made all the standing studs out of wood. It felt more stable. Moreover, the concrete elements in the ceiling and floor weren't horizontal or completely parallel, so each standing stud needed to be adjusted in length. I thought it seemed easier with the saw, so to speak. The wall surfaces themselves were just plasterboards. Of course, I insulated in between to dampen sound. But these choices were made entirely as an amateur, and it worked well!
I once built an interior wall in a concrete house from the 70s. I used metal tracks against the floor and ceiling, as these had a thin, glued insulation strip on them. It absorbed irregularities, dampened sound by sealing between the wall and the ceiling/floor. It also dampened sound from the floor above by, so to speak, isolating the wall construction from the concrete a little. The metal track is really intended for use with metal studs, but I made all the standing studs out of wood. It felt more stable. Moreover, the concrete elements in the ceiling and floor weren't horizontal or completely parallel, so each standing stud needed to be adjusted in length. I thought it seemed easier with the saw, so to speak. The wall surfaces themselves were just plasterboards. Of course, I insulated in between to dampen sound. But these choices were made entirely as an amateur, and it worked well!