How to attach threaded rod

[SimonZ]

Hello,

I have two oak boards that are 8cm thick which I will join with some underlying battens, also oak, 8cm thick. This is both to hold the boards together and to prevent them from warping too much. It should be a bit rough and rustic so it's okay if there are some cracks and warping, but not too much.
I was planning to attach the batten to the board with stainless threaded rod that I intend to tighten a few times a year as the oak shrinks. From what I've found, there aren't any stainless carriage bolts that long. The solution I thought of was a T-nut that is countersunk with filler or dowel plug over it according to the picture. The problem is that when I tighten the nut underneath, the threaded rod also turns.
Any suggestions for a solution?

 

[Kane]

Hold onto the tension rod with 2 nuts higher up on it.

 

[richardtenggren]

If you are going to be able to retighten, you typically need to use loctite on the islagsmutter, otherwise you won't know where it's moving afterwards either.

 

[SimonZ]

If you're going to retighten, you need to use something like Loctite on the T-nut, otherwise you won't know where it's loosening from later on.

Do you mean that by locking the T-nut against the threaded rod with Loctite, the threaded rod won't loosen from the T-nut then?

 

[nodden]

Attach a nut to the top of the threaded rod, the one you intend to seal.
Then countersink the nut with a chisel, meaning a hexagonal countersink. Loctite on top.

 

[richardtenggren]

If you lock the tee nut to the threaded rod with Loctite so the threaded rod doesn't unscrew from the tee nut, is that what you mean?

Yes, that's how I would have done it, otherwise the part with the lowest friction will rotate, i.e. it's difficult to control which end.

 

[Lutte]

If you don't have loctite at home, you can measure where the nut ends on the threaded rod.

Where you want it to stop, you make 2-3 center punch marks. So if you want the rod to go in 10mm, make the center punch marks at 8mm so you can fit the punch marks into the nut.

Not completely foolproof but almost.

 

[Violina]

Make a proper notch in the screw and nut that deforms the metal, and it should lock?

 

[SimonZ]

Yes, that's how I would have done it, otherwise the part with the least friction will rotate, meaning it's difficult to control which end.

How strongly does loctite secure the t-nut to the threaded rod? Is there any risk it will move when you tighten the nut?

 

[SimonZ]

Make a proper notch in the screw and nut that deforms the metal, then it should lock?

If you don't have loctite at home, you can measure on the threaded rod where the nut stops on the threaded rod.

Where you want it to stop, make 2-3 punches. So if you want the rod to go in 10mm, make the punches at 8mm so the punches are in the nut.

Not completely foolproof but almost

Thanks! Good solutions!

 

[richardtenggren]

How tightly does the Loctite hold the T-nut against the threaded rod? Is there any risk it will move when you tighten the nut?

Loctite is actually a company name, but it's understood to refer to their thread locking products, which come in various types. In your case, the main thing is to achieve higher friction than the hex nut on the side where you want to be able to adjust later. Thread locking is like a glue that activates upon tightening and thereby significantly increases friction.

 

[Plupp 433451]

Loctite is actually a company name, but it implicitly refers to their thread locker, which comes in different variants, but in your case, the main thing is that you achieve higher friction than the hex nut on the side where you want to be able to adjust afterward.
Thread locking is like a glue that activates upon tightening and significantly increases friction.

Thread tape works well too.

 

[richardtenggren]

Works well with thread tape too.

Absolutely, also the suggestions above, i.e., anything that makes the friction higher than for the hex nut.
Bearing lock would also work, but I considered it unlikely that TS has this, if he doesn't have thread locking.

 

[Violina]

Or a welding spatter

 

[Plupp 433451]

Loctite is, as mentioned, a brand name. However, the product threadlocker is not really intended for these purposes, but works excellently. The compound tends to expand and, under certain conditions, become like glue. It is also moisture and rust resistant.

Thread tape is another option that you simply wrap around the threads, so the threads cut against each other, creating resistance or friction. With thread tape, you can more easily adapt to the purpose you are working on when it comes to carpentry work.

But as mentioned, both work excellently.