Hello
I'm laying new flooring in a new build and unfortunately, the last joint/piece ended up being a narrow strip of 10 cm. How should/can I handle this? A 45 stud wall will also be built on the wall later.

Option 1: cut the flooring chipboard 10cm and attach it to the last full-width board.

Option 2: cut the last board straight and place a spacer of type 22x95 (board piece) for the last bit.

Option 3: leave it and cover the insulation with a small piece of subfloor board, since the wall will be extended by 45, so the "hole" will be max 5cm and the parquet floor and trim will cover it anyway Wooden floorboard with boot prints and a barcode label placed on a construction site, alongside screws and other materials. Sheet of chipboard flooring with a label placed on wooden joists and insulation, adjacent to a wall; tools and materials visible nearby.

Option 4: another solution
 
Glue the strip of floor chipboard to the full board before screwing the last full board.
 
N NiBaBaD said:
Hi
Laying new flooring in a new build and unfortunately the last seam/piece became a narrow strip of 10 cm. How should/can I handle this? A 45-regel will also be built out on the wall later.

Option 1: cut floor chipboard 10 cm and attach to the last full-width board.

Option 2: cut the last board straight and lay a fitting piece of type 22x95 (plank) as the last piece.

Option 3: leave it and cover the insulation with a small piece of trossbottenskiva, as the wall extends 45, so the "hole" will be max 5 cm and parquet floor and trim will cover it anyway[image] [image]

Option 4: another solution
I would probably add extra kortlat under each and lay the narrow piece that is left. There won't be any risk of flexing then, while you also get chipboard on the entire floor. Depending on the type of floor, it might even be unnecessary to add extra kortlat.
 
P Per Ingemansson said:
I would probably add extra blocking under each one and place the narrow piece that is left. There will be no risk of flexing, while you get coverage over the entire floor.
Depending on which floor it is, it might even be unnecessary to add extra blocking.
Why add blocking? I’m thinking if you glue it before mounting, it becomes a unit.

Regardless of how I do it, I'll get a gap against the existing rule as space is needed for the "nose" to slide in. But then the 45 rule will cover it.
 
You should have noggings under all the edges of the board. So you should have some noggings.
 
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N NiBaBaD said:
Why shorten it? Thinking if you glue it before assembly, it becomes a unit.

Regardless of how I do it, I'll get a gap against the existing rule as space is needed for the "nose" to be inserted. But then the 45 rule will cover that.
Thinking if a heavy cabinet is going to stand next to the wall. Then there's a risk that the legs will cause deflection of the parquet since a narrow strip of particle board isn't very durable.
Regarding gaps, either glue it beforehand as someone else wrote. Alternatively, you press it into place with a crowbar. 10mm at the outer edge is probably reasonable to have.
 
P Per Ingemansson said:
Thinking if a heavy cabinet should stand against the wall. Then there is a risk that the legs will cause deflection of the parquet because a narrow strip of particleboard is not very strong.
Regarding the gap, you either glue before, as someone else wrote. Alternatively, you press it into place with a crowbar. 10mm at the outer edge seems reasonable to have.
Ok, I'm with you. I was thinking a bit about needing to add support because of the joint. Yes, a 70x45 will be embedded near the end of the wall.

It's just a pity that you have to cut into 4 floorboards to get these 10 cm pieces.
 
N NiBaBaD said:
Ok then I'm with you. I thought a bit about having to cut it due to the joint. Yes, it will be recessed with 70x45 near the end of the wall.

A bit of a shame that you have to cut into 4 floorboards to get these 10 cm pieces
If you had centered the laying, you would have managed without any strips.....:D
 
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LoweW
H hempularen said:
You should have nogging under all the edges of the board. So you should have some nogging.
Aren't practically all tongue-and-groove 22mm chipboard flooring okay to lay continuously? On page 18 of the "Flooring Handbook" from the manufacturer of TS's chipboard flooring, you can see that they lay it continuously.
 
K Kane said:
If you had centered the installation, you could have managed without any strips.....:D
True, if I had measured, I could have cut the first row and gotten more homogeneous seams at the walls. But the number of boards would have been the same.
 
Wouldn't you need 45 studs on the sides? Then it would be enough to center what you have placed without cutting. Then there should be support around for the panels.
 
J Joak said:
Wouldn't you have 45 studs on the sides? Then it would have been enough to center what you've placed without cutting. Then there should be support around for the boards.
Yes, there should be 45 studs on the walls, so you could put a standing 45x70 as the picture shows, then there will be OSB + Gypsum. If you connect 28/45*70 to the last chipboard, it will be "tight". Would that work?

Close-up of wall with upright 45x70 timber against OSB and gypsum board labeled “Kortling”; a box of screws is visible.

Feels a bit B to cut 4 chipboards just for...
 
Yes, it definitely does. Make sure the insulation is against the sill so there is no draft under it and underneath the particle board. It looks like there is a slight gap in the picture.
 
To make it strong and fast, you take 28X 95 glespanel, cut it into pieces that fit between the floor joists, slide them down so that half of the gles is under the board, and then there's room to pull it up with 2 clamps. Fasten it with 5 chipboard screws and put a small piece there and maybe a little glue and 5 screws. It becomes strong enough to park a car on it.
 
It's just a matter of placing the 10cm piece there like all the other boards. You should have a 45mm stud, then 11 OSB and 12 gypsum, then a baseboard of 12mm I assume? Then you're up to 80mm. It doesn't seem likely that you'd load the last 20mm of the piece so much that it would flex. That holds any day of the week (y)
 
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