Choosing tongue and groove boards

[Lars-Göran Lindström]

Hello

Considering how prices are skyrocketing, it was bad timing to start building a villa now. We are committed and have to complete it, but I am chasing costs.

Tongue and groove boards for roofing.

Usually available in two widths (95 and 120 mm) and fixed lengths or "falling lengths." Also possible to purchase with a beveled end.

What is the best purchase, i.e., cheapest without compromising too much on potential quality?

 

[Lulaua]

What are you going to use it for? If it's for the ceiling, go with panels.

 

[Lars-Göran Lindström]

What do you need it for? If it's for the roof, go with panels.

Yes, I forgot to write that.
It's for the roof.
The square meter price for a panel is significantly more expensive than lumber. Do you mean it saves labor?

 

[Tomture61]

If it is not you holding the hammer, råspontluckor are much more time-efficient.

 

[Lutte]

Would choose panels even if I nailed them myself, it goes quickly so it's worth the price difference.
If you're going to be frugal and nail them yourself and want to be grilled on the roof, then 120 tongue and groove in falling lengths as long as it's end tongue and groove so you can splice continuously.

 

[fribygg]

It depends on what type of roof you will have later; tongue and groove board is the best if you will have sheet or strip-covered metal, as it eliminates general seams.

If you are going to have concrete tiles, tongue and groove panels are excellent, but personally, I find them unnecessarily heavy to handle by hand on a standard 1.5-story house.

 

[Gabbe1]

If it primarily concerns cost, one could question the need for råsponten entirely. There are plenty of underlayment options on the market that can be mounted directly on the rafters. However, it depends somewhat on the rest of the construction as well as the type of outer roof one plans to have.

 

[prototypen]

I'm also thinking about this with råspont.... So I consulted with my "consultant, buddy in construction, about whether I can use plywood instead, and if I put battens at the joints he thought it would be fine. Now it's just 76 cm cc on the roof trusses.
Protte

 

[fribygg]

If it primarily concerns cost, one can question the need for raw planking altogether. There are plenty of underlayment membranes on the market that can be installed directly onto the rafters. But it does depend a bit on the rest of the construction and what kind of outer roof you plan to have.

If it's about durability and cost per year, you should probably have raw planking, underlay felt, and clay tiles or standing seam metal.