Protect end grain on posts on plinth?

[stugfar]

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Can you link what type of plastic spacers you mean?
What is the advantage compared to some cardboard?

The plastic doesn't absorb water, is dimensionally stable, and doesn't rust. Sure, you can use cardboard, but supporting shims are probably standard practice. For example https://www.k-rauta.se/produkt/pall...MI-e3mzfnX-AIV2KfVCh2QWgLvEAQYBiABEgJTvPD_BwE

PS. I wouldn't oil a pressure-treated post, but maybe the lower end if it was freshly cut. I think I considered this and chose the uncut end downwards when building the deck.

 

[Villa1949]

[

Can you link what type of plastic spacers you mean?
What is the benefit compared to some cardboard?

It probably works with asphalt felt too. That's what I put between the joist and the concrete foundation when I attached the joist, but then I had to stack a few on top of each other to get some air behind. The advantage of the plastic, I think, is that it's thicker. But as I said, both probably work well.

 

[Villa1949]

I also oiled my posts (impregnated lime wood) and applied a primer and top coat with window paint, but I let them dry properly in the basement before I treated them. Mine support a terrace and terrace roof.

 

[Skumpe]

I also oiled my posts (impregnated linträ) and primed and top-coated with window paint, but I let them dry properly in the basement before I treated them. They support a patio and patio roof.

A year of drying is recommended. I need to fix this this week.

 

[Skumpe]

it probably works with asphalt paper too. I used that between the bearer and the concrete foundation when I attached the bearer, but then I had to stack a few to get some air behind. The advantage of the plastic, I think, is that it's thicker. But as I said, both probably work well

Where do I buy these and what are they called? Did you attach these to the posts or the plinth?

 

[Villa1949]

Where do I buy these and what are they called? Did you attach them to the posts or the foundation?

I bought them at Optimera, they're probably available at several building suppliers. I didn't attach them, just placed the post on top. They're called plastic spacer or shimming plate. I think it works well without treatment. Choose the uncut part downward so the impregnation remains intact.

 

[myrstack]

It is recommended one year of drying. I need to fix this this week.

When painting, it's important to wait; a water-based oil can be applied directly, the important thing is that the wood is dry enough to absorb, which is usually not an issue unless it is timber that came directly from impregnation or has been lying out in the rain.

 

[Skumpe]

Swedish wood etc. recommend that all cut surfaces be treated with penetrating oil. What do they mean then? I have used halv oil (50/50 raw linseed oil/balsam turpentine) just to try something but it changes the color of the decking.

This is about posts, not decking. In that case, I need something that is easy to purchase and comes in maybe 1-liter packaging. It's not about a lot. Do you have a link?

 

[z_bumbi]

Ask where you shop, but regular deck or terrace oil works for the end grain. Linolja mentioned also works; I even believe that the other oils are based on linolja.
You don't need to set the posts in anything, just paint generously and repeat a few times so the end grain has the opportunity to absorb it.

 

[Viktor.J]

This is about posts, not decking. In that case, I need something that's easy to buy and comes in maybe 1-liter packaging. It's not about much. Do you have a link?

it doesn't matter. A cross-section is a cross-section whether the cross-section is square or rectangular.