30,183 views ·
106 replies
30k views
106 replies
Wheel nut broke off - what to do? (help!)
Hello!
I need tips from you clever folks on a tool or method to extract the remains of the stripped lug nut! The remains are still on the threaded rod, but it's extremely difficult to access.
What can be done?
The only thing I can think of is to find some small mini-blade for the multi-tool and try to saw it off.

Muttrar Navringar, Hjul bultar, mutter och låsbult - ABS Wheels

I need tips from you clever folks on a tool or method to extract the remains of the stripped lug nut! The remains are still on the threaded rod, but it's extremely difficult to access.
What can be done?
The only thing I can think of is to find some small mini-blade for the multi-tool and try to saw it off.
Muttrar Navringar, Hjul bultar, mutter och låsbult - ABS Wheels

It looks like the thread is way too short for the rims you're using now?
I would say that you need to get out the drill, start with something small so it gets centered and then use a large drill so you can drill away what's left.
I assume you'll have to replace the wheel bolt after this anyway...
I would say that you need to get out the drill, start with something small so it gets centered and then use a large drill so you can drill away what's left.
I assume you'll have to replace the wheel bolt after this anyway...
Know-It-All
· Västra götaland
· 10 929 posts
Is there any part of the hexagon left, or did it break off just above the cone?
Is it the front or rear, on which car?
Did it happen when you were loosening or tightening the wheel?
Is it the front or rear, on which car?
Did it happen when you were loosening or tightening the wheel?
Yeah, I would probably say that too. But these are the ones ABSwheels sends as standard. The problem is that the nut is stainless steel = soft!MathiasS said:
I'm not quite sure what you mean with the drill? Then I would also drill the pinbolt? It's not possible to just hit the nut? Or how should I drill?
There is a minimal part left of the hexagon but can't get a grip on it. It's also damaged.Dan_Johansson said:
It's the front wheel on a Tesla Model 3 with aftermarket wheels from ABSWheels.
You should always have at least five threads of the screw in the nut to guarantee the joint's strength... that looks like someone tightened it "like hell" after having problems with the nuts coming loose (since there are too few threads to achieve adequate friction at the correct tightening torque)
Drill the edge of the nut.Shibby said:
Hi!
I need tips from you clever people on tools or methods to remove the remnants of the stripped wheel nut!
The remnants are still on the threaded rod, but it's extremely difficult to reach.
What can be done?
The only thing I can think of is to find a small mini-blade for the multi-tool and try to saw it off.
[bild]
Muttrar Navringar, Hjul bultar, mutter och låsbult - ABS Wheels
[bild]
Use a drift and knock it loose.
It's just threaded, so it takes a little while, but the tap thread should come out unscathed.
Or you can take a larger socket and knock it on, which fits over the waist of the nut and unscrew the nut.
My first thought was, as you've already been advised, to get out the drill. Start with a smaller bit, then gradually increase the size. Then replace the wheel bolt, usually costs no more than a hundred kronor.
But after reading that it's a Tesla with nice rims, I would probably take it to a tire workshop.
But after reading that it's a Tesla with nice rims, I would probably take it to a tire workshop.
Unfortunately, I don't think it's that "simple."Maskintok said:
(Also, what does he need a gängtapp for??)
The best suggestion so far is to drill it out and replace the wheel bolt!
Apologies for the wording.Violina said:
But it's not a wheel bolt, it's nuts with studs that are in the hubs.
Why should you drill it out?
It's enough to just replace the nut and clean the threads on the stud.
You're thinking of the tool, and that's different.
Things are called and referred to the same in workshops.
Punch out the threaded rod if that term suits better, though it's called a stud in spare parts terminology.
And replace it with a longer one.
With a thread file, you can easily determine what type of thread and pitch you need.
I would guess M14x1.25 as it's very common for wheel bolts and nuts.
Last edited by a moderator: