You can use renovation plasterboard to gain a few mm.
 
Mikael_L
Why not just plaster instead, then?

Otherwise, chipboard should be a better choice, at least a smooth surface.
 
H Horace76c said:
I am replacing a small wall section that is about 3600x600 due to a window replacement.
The whole section is more or less hidden behind a radiator.
I'm considering putting OSB on the inside without drywall due to space constraints.
Is it a bad idea to skip the drywall for reasons other than aesthetics?
I hate bare drywall without anything behind it. If there's no space for both wood board and drywall, I would use MDF; it has a surface that is easy to make look nice. The challenge is to make the seam hold without cracking over time. It should be possible to router or sand down the thickness of the board near the seam by a few mm and splice with a tape.
 
H Horace76c said:
Going to replace a small wall section that is about 3600x600 due to a window replacement.
The whole section is more or less hidden behind a radiator.
Considering putting obs on the inside without drywall due to space reasons.
Does it look foolish to skip the drywall for any reason other than the aesthetic?
Drywall provides fire protection
 
Mikael_L
M Maximarcus said:
I hate plain plaster walls without anything behind.
Why?
 
Would have put plaster if the fastenings for the element had lined up with the noggings that come up. Now it won't be like that if I'm going to keep c-c, that's why I want to use obs so I can hang the element in it.
 
Mikael_L
But can you mark briefly where the brackets should be, and then a plaster?
 
Yes, it is possible to do that, but I thought it would be easier with insulation if I kept 60-60.
Apart from fire resistance and aesthetics, is there any reason to put gypsum in front of MDP or OSB?
 
It might be mentioned in the thread above, but is it OK to choose 10 mm OSB board instead of 11 mm behind the plasterboards? I have 45x45 horizontal (cc 60 cm) screwed into the vertical studs. The reason I'm asking is that the price of lumber has risen a lot recently, and from what I understand, 11 mm OSB is about 100 SEK more expensive than 10 mm OSB. 1 mm difference isn't much, but I want to know before we pull the electrical wires so that the electrical boxes are at the correct "depth".
 
Mikael_L
  • Like
Fruck and 1 other
  • Laddar…
Mikael_L Mikael_L said:
Double gypsum boxes often come at a slightly wrong depth even with 11mm OSB, about 1-2 mm off ...

But use single gypsum boxes with an adjustable ring (which screws to the correct level) and it will be fine with 10mm OSB.

For example,
Schneider VP-2 for single gypsum or Biltema's with a screwable ring (which is actually quite good and very affordable)

[link]
[link]
Great tips!
Approximately how much can the ring be screwed out? Is it enough that a green box can be used for double gypsum (25mm)?
 
Mikael_L
It's a bit different.
Biltema’s single drywall boxes probably can’t handle 26mm. I remember in my house, I was a bit undecided about using single or double drywall.

Double drywall sticks out a bit when it's 24mm with osv+drywall.
However, it's easy and quick to cut off 2mm from the box with a sharp knife if you first screw the ring all the way in.

If I chose single drywall boxes instead, there was a problem screwing the ring out far enough. When it reached the wall surface, it was only held by 1-2 thread turns in the box, a bit risky.

This is, of course, with osv+drywall=24mm, so 26mm isn’t good for Biltema’s single drywall box.

On the other hand, VP-2 is a bit more generous with the adjustment space, so there is more overlap.
Their single drywall box with a green ring handles both single and double drywall, and their box with a blue ring handles both double drywall and triple (39mm).
 
  • Like
Gabbe1
  • Laddar…
I used ABB boxes and extension rings. The boxes accommodate both single and double gypsum boards. Rings are available in different thicknesses and also thick enough to work in the bathroom with tiles.
 
mycke_nu mycke_nu said:
Well, I can't say that I have any experience to rely on either, except that I've read that many do it this way and it seems to work here on the walls where I have done so.

Regarding the risk of the screws working their way through the plasterboard due to moisture movements in the OSB, I don't think this risk is very high. The movement can only be a few percent of the board's thickness, i.e., about 0.1-0.2 mm, which is unlikely to cause the screws to go through the paper.
 
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.