I am building a workbench in my carport. I want it to be very sturdy (preferably completely rigid) and able to withstand a good amount of wear and tear (just because). The bench should be usable for various activities like woodworking, support when sawing or using machines, moped repairs, painting, etc.
I have built and mounted some heavy-duty brackets in 95x95mm (untreated C24) on the wall now. On them, I will screw 45x120 beams for the tabletop (also untreated). Then I also plan to install a vise (like an Irwin TV175) and maybe some shelves underneath.
The bench is at the far end of a carport with a roof over it, so it will never rain directly on it. During winter, snow can blow into the carport, but it usually doesn't reach far under the roof. The bench still needs to withstand outdoor humidity.
I would like to attach some form of sheet material as a top layer on the 45x120 beams. Partly to get a completely even and smooth surface, but also to have a harder surface compared to the 120 wood beams. What material would you recommend that can handle being pounded on without getting a lot of dents right away? And the sheet should also withstand humidity and the requirements above. The surface of the bench will be 60x240 cm.
I think I will prime and then paint the frame/brackets in the same color as the house wall. That should make them suitable for the outdoor environment.
Grateful for any tips
I have built and mounted some heavy-duty brackets in 95x95mm (untreated C24) on the wall now. On them, I will screw 45x120 beams for the tabletop (also untreated). Then I also plan to install a vise (like an Irwin TV175) and maybe some shelves underneath.
The bench is at the far end of a carport with a roof over it, so it will never rain directly on it. During winter, snow can blow into the carport, but it usually doesn't reach far under the roof. The bench still needs to withstand outdoor humidity.
I would like to attach some form of sheet material as a top layer on the 45x120 beams. Partly to get a completely even and smooth surface, but also to have a harder surface compared to the 120 wood beams. What material would you recommend that can handle being pounded on without getting a lot of dents right away? And the sheet should also withstand humidity and the requirements above. The surface of the bench will be 60x240 cm.
I think I will prime and then paint the frame/brackets in the same color as the house wall. That should make them suitable for the outdoor environment.
Grateful for any tips
Know-It-All
· Västra götaland
· 10 921 posts
The most durable option you can get is a sheet metal, preferably with bent edges, which protects the front edge of the rules, and prevents small items from falling off the back...
Then it's just a matter of choosing the thickness according to your budget...
The alternative could be a masonite board (oil-hardened?) that you simply replace when it gets too worn out...
Then it's just a matter of choosing the thickness according to your budget...
The alternative could be a masonite board (oil-hardened?) that you simply replace when it gets too worn out...
Thanks for the tip! I was planning to buy an iron L-profile 50x50 to be screwed around all the edges of the countertop, as protection and to be able to bend things, etc.
Using sheet metal might still be overkill for my purpose, but oil-hardened masonite that can be replaced as needed does sound smart. Is that masonite impact-resistant/hard?
Know-It-All
· Västra götaland
· 10 921 posts
I would say it's sturdy enough... it’s supported by strong beams, so it holds up well...
But it can't withstand just anything, if you put an M5 nut directly on the masonite and hit it with a sledgehammer, you'll likely get a dent in the masonite...
But it can't withstand just anything, if you put an M5 nut directly on the masonite and hit it with a sledgehammer, you'll likely get a dent in the masonite...
A few years ago, when I renovated my garage, I built a sturdy workbench along one wall. My plan was to cover it with sheet metal, but since I had some OSB boards left over, I used them as the base under the sheet metal. However, I still haven't gotten around to installing any sheet metal, but OSB is unexpectedly durable. I've done mechanics, painting, carpentry, etc., and aside from paint and a bit of grime, the OSB is in good condition.
In your case, I would probably lay some board (OSB, plywood, etc.) and then, just as the previous suggestion, use oil-hardened masonite. That is, if you don't want sheet metal. Then you have a "base" in the form of OSB/plywood and then a wear layer in the form of masonite.
In your case, I would probably lay some board (OSB, plywood, etc.) and then, just as the previous suggestion, use oil-hardened masonite. That is, if you don't want sheet metal. Then you have a "base" in the form of OSB/plywood and then a wear layer in the form of masonite.
Hi, I have many moped mechanic friends... several of them have changed the surface of their workbench.
A click flooring becomes both nice and durable as a countertop.
A click flooring becomes both nice and durable as a countertop.
Wear-resistant plywood, i.e., the kind that is used at the bottom of trailers, etc. Protect the saw cuts from water. Plywood and boat varnish work as well.
Personally, I would rather glue a board of rafters, flip it when it becomes too worn, and then make a new one. A couple of layers of linseed oil provide decent protection. 45x70 rafters are not too expensive and become quite sturdy on their own.
Personally, I would rather glue a board of rafters, flip it when it becomes too worn, and then make a new one. A couple of layers of linseed oil provide decent protection. 45x70 rafters are not too expensive and become quite sturdy on their own.
My dad had some oak parquet leftovers, so he covered his workbench with it. Then it was varnished with quite a few layers of boat varnish. It turned out very nice, in any case.tennet said:
I have probably done that. It becomes solid and flat then. But it probably works fine without it if you don't want it.
Exactly...