Interior wall to divide the basement

[deldan]

Hello,

I am planning to build an interior wall to divide the basement. On one side is the stair hall from the upper floor to the laundry room. On the other side will be a bedroom that I plan to rent out with a separate entrance. I would like to have a door connecting the two spaces.

I have a few questions about this project:

1. How thick should the wall be to provide good privacy/soundproofing on both sides?

2. Any special design for this? I read somewhere that leaving some air between the two sides of the wall increases sound insulation. It was something like plasterboard, OSB, insolarin 95mm - air 10cm - insolarin 95mm, OSB, plasterboard. Or is that excessive?

3. Can I combine METAL STUDS and wood? I'm thinking of using METAL STUDS as it is in the basement, and the floor is covered with tiles and one of the connecting walls is an exterior concrete wall. The other wall is made of plasterboard, and it is an interior wall. I'm considering using METAL STUDS for all areas in contact with concrete and tiles and wood for the rest.

4. How much space should I leave between the studs? CC 60 or 45

Thanks in advance.

 

[Albans doktor]

Hello,

I am planning to build an inner wall to divide the basement. On one side, there is the stair hall from the upper floor to the laundry room. On the other side, there will be a bedroom that I plan to rent out with a separate entrance. I would like to have a door connecting the two spaces.

I have a few questions about this project:

1. How thick should the wall be to provide good privacy/soundproofing on both sides?

2. Any specific design for this? I read somewhere that if you leave a little air between the two sides of the wall, it increases sound insulation. It was something like gisp, osb, isolarin 95mm - air 10cm - isolarin 95mm, osb, gisp. Or is it overkill?

3. Can I combine STÅLREGLAR and wood? I plan to use STÅLREGLAR since it's in the basement, and the floor is covered with tiles, and one of the connecting walls is an outer concrete wall. The other wall is made of gisp, and it's an inner wall. I'm considering using STÅLREGLAR in all areas in contact with concrete and tiles and wood for the rest.

4. How much space should I leave between the studs? CC 60 or 45

Thanks in advance.

Yes, everything depends on how much sound and noise the wall should block. Will the washing machines be near the wall you plan to build or are there other walls in between?

If you have the space to build like in your example, you've essentially built an "outer wall," which stands up to a lot of sound and noise.

I recommend that you use huntonisolering (wood fiber) instead of classic mineral wool. It dampens sound much more effectively, allowing you to use a thinner board and reduce the wall's depth to achieve the same effect. Huntonisolering may be more expensive, but in return, you'll get more floor space and avoid itching arms and irritated airways that most people experience from mineral wool when working with the material.

You can definitely combine steel and wood studs. However, if you want to maximize soundproofing, there are special metal studs for the purpose. But they are more expensive and probably overkill for your project. It's better to invest the money in huntonisolering instead.

Whether you should use 45 or 60 cc on the studs is up to you. 45 if you want to use ergonomic boards, which are 90 wide boards, or 60 if you want to use the standard board of 120.

It is essentially the same price for 90 and 120 boards, so if you want to save money, choose 120. It also requires fewer studs, which also saves a bit of money. If you'd rather have more manageable boards and avoid body aches, choose 90.

So in conclusion:
I would probably go with your example but with 70 studs instead of 95.
Metal stud with felt against walls, ceiling, and floor. Other studs can be either wood or metal, depending on budget.
Huntonisolering.
10-20 mm air between both walls, the most important is that they are not connected to prevent sound from traveling in the material.
Then perhaps I would skip the osb boards and go with double drywall instead. Drywall dampens sound better, is cheaper, and you can screw up quite heavy things if you want.

If you have room to make the wall thicker, you will naturally get a better result, but I think this will suffice quite nicely.