Indecision about partition wall

[SittinDuck]

Hi! I have read almost all the posts about partition walls.

However, I have some requirements and considerations that make me unsure. Can you help?

1. The total wall thickness must not exceed 100mm
2. One side is towards the bathroom where tiles will be placed.
3. There must be room for electrical boxes.

I have two options:
1. 45x70 with 13mm gypsum on each side. CC600 except the walls that are against the bathroom, CC300.
2. 45x45 with double 13mm gypsum on each side. CC300 everywhere.

Questions:
1. Which option is "best"?
2. Should there be some form of "sill sealing" on the wood frame against the slab? Slab on ground, 300mm Styrofoam. I presume it's unnecessary.
3. Should you install vapor barrier in the ceiling (the entire house section) before putting up interior walls? Then you won't have untightened areas above the top beams. If so, should you apply some corner tape between ceiling/wall in the bathroom before the ceiling is installed?
4. Connection to the outer wall, do you put all the plasterboards on the outer wall and then raise the interior walls? The question about vapor barrier remains the same as for the ceiling above.

phew... quite a few questions, but that's how it is when you're a beginner.

Thanks in advance for all answers and opinions!

 

[SittinDuck]

EDIT/

Option two, 45x45 +2 times gypsum, should be CC600

 

[zankan]

alternative 2 double plasterboard is better from a stability point of view, sound point of view... Personally, cc 600 is pure stone age for me... thought no one was using anything but 900 plasterboard nowadays... but well... cc 300 is overkill in ALL respects, and I mean ALL... it doesn't make anything better if you use double plasterboard and 300 cc, only with single plasterboard, but only those who don't know better do that... And if you want to do it really well, you use metal studs with double plasterboard.......

 

[fooney]

So why would cc 600 be the Stone Age... if it has worked for at least 15 years, then it has....... more convenient with 900 gypsum mmm maybe, but the cheapest wins as always, and that's how it is with 600 gypsum.

Then I am very doubtful that a wall would become more stable with metal studs

oki easier to mount and doesn't move, but more stable nope.....

 

[zankan]

It doesn't get more stable, but I didn't claim that either... at least not with 45 studs, but it usually turns out bad no matter what you do... And saying that 1200 gypsum is the Stone Age might be because, according to building regulations, it can't be used in constructions for ergonomic reasons. Which I think is good because dragging around 1200 gypsum wasn't fun. Sometimes it's used in certain walls with very high sound requirements, otherwise, it's a thing of the past. But I know they are still available for purchase and are a few bucks cheaper for private individuals, and that might be an argument for buying them. Otherwise, there aren't many arguments for them really...

 

[SittinDuck]

Thanks for the answers, but I'm not getting any clearer.

So, thickness max 100mm, tiles on one side and space for device boxes.

Then it's free choice:
-45x45 +single or double plasterboard. Stud spacing (size of plasterboard)?
-70x45 +single plasterboard. Stud spacing (size of plasterboard)?
-metal stud and ??

I know there are certain requirements for wet room walls with tiles, cc450 with single plasterboard and 600 with double plasterboard?

Thanks for more answers.

 

[Magnus_Nordmark]

Thanks for the answers, but I'm not getting any clearer.

So, thickness max 100mm, tiles on one side and space for device boxes.

Then it's free choice:
-45x45 +single or double plasterboard. Stud distance (size of plasterboard)?
-70x45 +single plasterboard. Stud distance (size of plasterboard)?
-metal stud and ??

I know there are certain requirements for wet room walls with tiles, cc450 with single plasterboard and 600 with double plasterboard?

Thanks for more answers.

Worth considering is also that the plasterboard itself stabilizes quite a bit when it gets spacing. So double plasterboard versus single plasterboard makes the wall more stable.

 

[zankan]

Thanks for the answers, but I'm not getting any clearer.

So, thickness max 100mm, tiles on one side and space for electrical boxes.

Then it's free choice:
-45x45 +single or double gypsum. Spacing (size of gypsum)?
-70x45 +single gypsum. Spacing (size of gypsum)?
-metal stud and ??

I know there are certain requirements for wet room walls with tiles, cc450 with single gypsum and 600 with double gypsum?

Thanks for more replies.

Like this I've done solutions on walls in 99 out of 100 cases, and then I mean bathroom, kitchen, bedroom walls.

Between toilet/bathroom and other spaces

70 metal stud usually, but also wood. Double gypsum sometimes plywood gypsum. Between studs 45 or 70 insulation. This takes care of a certain amount of the resonance in the wall. Double gypsum handles sound as well and stabilizes the wall.

Kitchen Same construction as above, usually metal towards bedroom due to sound...

Bedroom metal studs! double gypsum only because of sound the stability is relevant from this point of view at low frequencies. Metal is stable in 70 execution and double gypsum....

Talking about stud spacing, I have, since 1990, only used 900 except in a hotel construction that required 1200 due to the increased sound classification in the walls. Now there's nothing saying you can't use 1200 anyway. But personally, I prefer 900, and it is now the standard!

Stud spacing in bathrooms 450cc double gypsum.. single gypsum is never used and this not from a stability perspective we are talking about SOUND....... but if you want to do this, you use 300cc. I do not recommend this as it leads to the wall becoming extremely poor in terms of sound. Also, single gypsum is a penny-wise, pound-foolish solution..

Talking about kitchen walls, there are regulations that control how much sound can leak from them. Usually not a problem with a single gypsum wall. But again, penny-wise, pound-foolish...

 

[fooney]

Kitchen Same construction as above, usually metal against bedroom due to sound...

Do you mean that metal studs would increase sound insulation?
How so?
The heavier the wall, the more sound insulation.

 

[fooney]

It doesn't get more stable, but I didn't claim that either... at least not with 45 studs, but it usually turns out badly no matter what you do. And that 1200 gypsum is stone age is perhaps because it can't be used in constructions for economic reasons according to building codes. Which I think is good because the 1200 gypsum wasn't fun to lug around. Sometimes it's used in certain walls with very high sound requirements, otherwise it's a thing of the past. But I know they're still available for purchase and are a few bucks cheaper for private individuals, and maybe that can be an argument for buying them. Other than that, there aren't many arguments for them really....

Of course, 900 gypsum is more ergonomic and practical, but I know most smaller construction firms absolutely won't let go of 1200 for the price, one sheet small=small money, 300 sheets a bit more money.

But recommending metal studs for private individuals, no not according to me, the price matters there too!

But a very good tip for those who are just going to put up a wall is to go combined, meaning the soleplate and top plate should be metal studs and the studs themselves wood, then you get perfect tracks to place the studs in + if you cut a stud a little too short, it's not the end of the world! Because you can then attach it from the side, nice, right 8)

 

[zankan]

Are you suggesting that metal studs would increase sound insulation?
How so?
The heavier the wall, the more sound insulation.

Stability governs coincidence, so wood might be preferred, but in residential buildings, low-frequency sounds are hardly the biggest problem. Metal is preferred here over wood since the "surface" that goes straight through the wall is 0.2 mm instead of 45 mm. Quite logical. Then it's not like the difference becomes so significant, but you can probably expect about 3 dB if done properly with rubber matting and proper soft joints. The most important thing from a sound perspective is that it is airtight, and the joint matters.

When constructing sound walls, metal is used exclusively anyway for gypsum constructions. What determines this is actually the weight of the boards and the critical frequency, etc... It's a jungle; explaining everything would require 10-15 A4 pages or something with nice formulas and stuff. Both you and I are happier without them

 

[SittinDuck]

Hello again,

I have decided to go with 70+double plasterboard.

Also considering sheet metal.
?Is it possible to attach a door frame to it?
?Do mouldings need to be screwed?
?Is there a T-beam? That is, connection to another wall?
?Do electrical boxes need to be screwed?

Thanks so far for all the tips! Great forum!

 

[zankan]

Hello again,

I have decided to go with 70+double gypsum.

Also considering sheet metal.
?Can door frames be attached to it?
?Must moldings be screwed?
?Is there T-beam? That is, joining against another wall?
?Must the wall boxes be screwed?

Thanks so far for all the tips! Great forum!

Door frames and sheet metal work with special screws if you don't use special door studs that are available; you can make these yourself as follows.

To get it awesome....
1) Attach your metal stud 22 mm from the place where the door should be.
2) One layer of gypsum now stretches across the door and the whole thing. You run continuously here. Sure, there will be waste, but it won't be a half measure either.
3) Trim the gypsum around the metal studs, one at the top edge too, of course, this one you set at 211 or 212.

4) Now screw a board 22*95 flush with the gypsum from behind, first through the metal then through wood. Put a cluster with 40 CC type.... Break off the screw on the other side.

5) Pull the second layer of gypsum over, and voila, you've made yourself a door hole.

Otherwise, you can use a plywood strip in the metal stud, that works too, just make sure to screw it on properly so it doesn't go awry when the program comes flying.

It's also great with wood studs 45*70 around the door hole. Then you usually cut the studs at 211 and screw them into a metal stud and place a wood piece in between then...