Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mjölnaren: If possible, regardless of the choice of boards, I would choose to reinforce with studs where I know heavy items will be mounted. Such as sinks, wall-mounted shower mixers/rails, kitchen cabinets, etc.
Hässleskog: We got about 150 cubic meters for a case of beer - try with 10 cases of beer then! Maybe you'll get 1500 cubic meters of material then... ;-) Where we're building, the municipality has sold off over a hundred plots (Tegelbruket). All these plots excavated at least 40 - 80 cubic meters of material. What I got hold of was just a fraction of the total. Where you live, there might already be - or is
slaskman: In which part of the country does your bricklayer live?
styrman1: 10x21 is the most common 9x21 can be found in townhouses and smaller villas. 9x20 on old summer cottages 10x20 exists but is really uncommon. the outer frame dimensions are exactly 985x2085 on a 10x21 so 15mm less in length and width.
claeson: Otherwise, Casco's Superset has incredible adhesion capability. I know because I had to tear it down and had a tough job there ;D
claeson: Try SSC (Skellefteå Snickeri Central) Ostviks windows! I have them myself and am very satisfied.
brevik: Just curious what it might cost/m2. I know brick is maintenance-free, etc., but I just want to check what it might cost. Do you remove the brick first?
Åttioettan: We have just had a house supplier out to look at the plot we want to buy. Before that, we talked about a split-level house, with a full basement level (meaning the entire floor made of masonry), but after looking at the plot, it will instead be a split-level house with only the back wall (the one against the mountain) made of masonry, the rest in wood. Does anyone know how big the price
styrman1: How wide is the house? Assuming the opening will be on the long side of the house, I need to know how wide the house is on the short side. If we assume 7.2m, you can use glulam as follows: 90x270 66x315 90x315 etc. or kerto 63x300
andersmc: Are there any generally applicable tolerances for "ungraded" construction timber, such as studs? What dimensional deviations must be accepted? How bent and twisted is it allowed to be?
MartinH: [citat] ;D I ended up at Hornbach by chance and I was a bit skeptical before entering the store. BUT - what an order to the stuff. Almost Prussian order ;D
dfred: OSB is used as roof panels in the USA (instead of rafters), usually 7/16 inch thick. A 4'x8' panel costs between $6-7, so it is quite cheap. It has very rough spans and is not particularly pleasant to work with. The surface is quite rough, so it would be difficult to get any surface coating to stick.
dymlingen: What type of fiber boards are mentioned? Sometimes you have foam plastic boards as a base for plaster. If they replace the outer 45mm layer in a wooden facade, you can offset some insulation and studs when comparing prices.
CallePosse: A very good site is: http://www.traguiden.se/ There you will find the information you are looking for. If it does not, please get in touch. Best regards/Calle
akby: I saw illusion-painted mirror doors, so-called trompe l'oeil. Maybe not super easy, but quite fun. If you add shadows, it looks quite realistic.
zankan: [citat] It's insanely fun to be the best :-) Whether you do it is another matter
styrman1: It is the fitting itself that is adjustable, the one you cast in concrete. The strength is sufficient. The only downside is probably the price. 3-4 times as expensive.
betula: If you mean "Western redcedar," it comes from the west coast of America, from Alaska to California. An appreciated coniferous tree (thuja) that is very suitable for outdoor use, it has good weather resistance. Easy to nail and weathers like teak if left untreated. However, galvanized nails rust, so use stainless steel. The downside is that the timber is expensive compared to domestic wood types
Brugd: I have used Biltema's on the terrace, some have rusted in the torx slot, but otherwise nothing.
spocks_beard: Remove the crap. No fun nailing when putting up paneling.
phulden: oops I found a lot of information on the manufacturer's website www.isola.se P
svemark: Epoxy maybe? Plastic that hardens quickly and becomes extremely hard. / Mårten.
Tuppen_1: I have countersunk the nails slightly so I could apply a thicker layer of putty + reinforced with some screws where I felt it was needed. However, screw first so you see how far out the nails come if the substrate moves slightly. For me, this resulted in a good outcome and now 2-3 years later the heads are still invisible. I found it easier to do this than to remove all and screw again.
slaskman: Does anyone have information on roof tile prices? Is it cheaper with glazed tiles in Germany, Holland, or Denmark? That's where they are manufactured nowadays, right?
Norre: If the plaster sits properly, it can probably support a half-tiled wall. I did it that way in my basement. Otherwise, you might have to tidy it up by replastering the wall.
David: We have particle boards everywhere except in areas where we plan to hang a lot or that require extra stability, such as the kitchen, laundry room, etc. There we have OSB. For safety's sake, we have also reinforced a little extra behind the OSB where we will have overhead cabinets, etc. Another reason to put up some form of board behind the drywall is that the work with drywall and spackling goes