Building Materials and Construction Technology
MathiasS: I don't know, I couldn't get to my usual supplier either so it didn't matter. Also, I don't think they stock a large variety of friggo.
styrman1: Here is a really good link! http://www.moelventoreboda.se/index.asp?menuItem=L9 There you can calculate for yourself what type of glulam beam or kerto for that matter.
OlaF: Wow, it sounds really cool to be able to bend plasterboards that way. Definitely a useful tip and worth trying when we build our "crazy bathroom" with a curved wall and sloped ceiling... probably a few kilos of filler :) I couldn't quite make out if special plasterboards are required or if it works with regular ones. /Ola
Immobil: [citat] We use Windy, as you can see on the website. I find it easy to work with and strong. 1 roll 2.74 x 62.5 m cost us 1,573.50. ;)
poppgubben: It is a special product that is widely used down in Europe. Nalen in Stockholm is made with this by Larsson & Örnmark's painting company. Check with them.... I believe that Caparol also has products for this, but they are probably not in stock. Good luck :)
ama: Try calling Timber Trading or another large timber wholesaler/importer and check how you can get it imported; it shouldn't be impossible even if you have to go through your local building market or timber company. Timber company might actually be a better choice, the ones I have visited seem to have a better understanding than the building markets on how to find unusual things. The thing is to
MrMagic: What quality is standard for a Villaplatta? Should one have a different quality under reinforcements at, for example, supports for beams, etc.?
Norre: if the possibility exists, I would definitely choose to nail it with a brad
Kruger: Considering installing PAROC wind protection on the facade under the cladding as wind protection. Comes in large formats so it covers almost the entire facade in height :-* Would greatly appreciate your experiences, opinions, and price information on this product!
Hans_Nordstrand: Hello! I am also in the process of moving a timber house, from Insjön to Ljusterö north of Stockholm. I plan to do almost all the work myself. For the foundation, it will probably be natural stone under the corners and beneath them concrete posts down to frost-free depth. This foundation method is described in the book "Flyttning av gamla hus" from Gysinge byggnadsvårdscentrum. Later, you can
casado: Hi, In an earlier thread, there was a tip about a company in Estonia, ARTIKA Trepid (www.artika.ee). They have a very nice website with really stylish oak staircases. I have written to them several times in English but haven't received any response. Has anyone been in contact with them? The prices they quote are super interesting so I really want to get in touch with them but my Estonian is
ab-cd: [citat] Nope, didn't see that you were going to have OSB under the plasterboard.
MathiasS: There is a thread about this. I talked to a fastener theorist this summer about it. Search! EDIT: I must be in a good mood today: http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Isolering;action=display;num=1087120029;start=8#8 EDIT again: I read so quickly that I didn't see we were talking about floor joists. Why should they be fastened so much? Hopefully, they won't fall down...... :=)
hempularen: 10 times the money sounds a bit exaggerated, I needed a glass wall for the shower in the summer house, and I got prices from the glazier for about 2000 for a piece measuring 60x200 cm including fittings, strips, etc. that were needed. I thought it was too expensive for the summer house. However, a bathroom company wanted about 7000 for the same piece. I made a simpler (and uglier) solution.
Bokholmen: Weird comparison with the car.....I think.... I wouldn't buy any car that I knew emitted crap... Of course, at least I look at what safety features a car has when I choose a car.... I definitely don't mean that I'm overly safety-conscious but moderation is probably best....
CarMan: [citat] I have an inner door in dough & it is the one I want to remove. but one could say that it's like day and night when it is closed or not though it might not get worse than today. I have an outer door that consists of 40% glass (good old single glazing) & then an inner door that consists of 80% glass :-X
bo: In the short term, the timber price may drop slightly, but after a few years, the price will rise.
GoForIt: Thanks for all the tips! I will soon embark on a record. I plan to sacrifice a piece on a record to test out the best result with your suggested recommendations.
mikael72: Don't really know where this question belongs, but I'll try here. We have a tiled balcony where the moisture barrier is no longer what it should be due to frost damages, etc. We removed a roof over the balcony before we realized how bad the moisture barrier was. Then it started raining and raining and raining... Now the moisture has penetrated the wall, resulting in wallpaper peeling, and the
Fasting65: With insulation in the walls, you avoid the guitar-case sound when someone hits the wall. It becomes more of a muted *foopph* instead of *bommmmmmmmm*. As for the actual soundproofing properties, I dare not say anything. It's just as important to ensure a tight seal between floor-wall and ceiling-wall.
MathiasS: This is what they are called, I have now learned: http://www.kgcverktyg.se/v2/showpage.asp?page=lux_1
VONBRAUN: The risk of it bulging inward is present regardless of which wind deflector you choose. You must be careful when setting up the fabric in this case. There is a batten in the middle of the rafter and one on each side of the rafter. Then, of course, it's important to be cautious when insulating. That applies to the cardboard version too. Masonite has the advantage that it is easier to insulate once
pont: Hello! Can anyone answer what you have to pay for paving stones like Bender Labyrint Antik in Poland? http://www.benders.se/mark/produkter/labyrintantik.asp?bild=01 Maybe even know some good companies in the Gdansk area?! /P
xztraz: Okay, not as moisture-resistant as I thought then. A minireit board is probably the best board option to put up then... but they are just so expensive... I think I'll build a little wall section there instead. I have a large stack of bricks lying around, and mortar is cheap. Thanks for the info.
Magnus_Nordmark: [citat] It's an idea that has occurred to me as well.. I'm leaning towards that solution... As long as I maintain the basic concept... We'll see.. ;-)
Magnus_Nordmark: [citat] I'm not confident to answer about condensation, it's not my area. Since platon is placed externally, the water situation from outside is the same, regardless of regular blocks or isoblocks.
morsan: Bilglascentralen, Aröds industrial area (Hisingen) does it...