Building Materials and Construction Technology
Linska: http://www.bta.se/Kakel_&_Klinker.htm Though it might be a bit far to Åre...
cy_berg: TN: Thanks for the tip, I completely agree with you! The company we are in contact with has done work on the houses around us that are from the same era, so I hope that ensures good knowledge. As you say, special knowledge about old houses is required; there can be problems using too many modern methods on old houses.
siamthai: [citat] It should not be necessary. The insulation provided by the glass concrete is quite sufficient. There is also special glass concrete used for outer walls. If I'm not mistaken, they have a vacuum in them, which makes them insulate better.
Draven: 45mm insulation and air gap, you mean, what would your wall look like? Isoleca-air gap-45mm-plasterboard? A guy who sells Isoleca blocks didn't understand why I would want to insulate further and claimed that the risk of moisture increases significantly, so the question is how to proceed... It would be great to be able to listen inside and outside the room before it's built.. :-/ The ceiling is
frasse: Sure they do ;) http://www.pondussnickeri.a.se/faner.html
hempularen: Remove the eternit yourself. Just make sure you have a good respiratory mask when doing it. And it might be a good idea not to let the clothes come into the house afterward. Also, check where you can dispose of the tiles (they should be packed in plastic bags while you're wearing protection). In many municipalities, you can "household dispose" a small amount at no cost.
Magnus_Nordmark: Contact a structural engineer so that nothing goes wrong. And the expression "balka av" is something I've never heard before... ::)
Schwingen: [citat] Why complicate things with studs and plasterboard??? Why not cut channels in the wall for electricity, plaster, seal, and tile.
Immobil: Favorite in rerun: http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=byggmatr;action=display;num=1089194696 ;)
flakaeric: To Magnelito. What is the most stylish is a matter of taste, but it is probably most common to use morapanel, pärlspont, etc., as it gives the ceiling more life.
Ms_IT-Nisse: It's quite smooth to apply plaster+fiberglass (for wet rooms)+paint with wet room paint. ;D
Framerate: We will be building with regular non-insulated 29 cm lecablock, with a 10 cm insulated inner wall and 5 cm of foam plastic on the outside as a carrier for sto-plaster. Against the ground there will be 10 cm of isodrän. I think it should turn out well. The walls will be around 45 cm thick after all. Or... :-/
Framerate: Oh well! Soon you can't read newspapers anymore because they almost only sell on people's fears or hopes. What is dangerous one day is beneficial the next, the headline "Your obesity can be good for you" I thought was a low point a few months ago in a well-known newspaper. All facades have their problems. Plaster can mold, plaster can crack, brick can freeze and break, wood can rot, and you get
stenhus05: We have received quotes from several constructors ranging from 350-750:-/hour. Unfortunately, we can't recommend anyone yet since we haven't seen the results. I can't imagine it taking more than a few hours for a skilled constructor to calculate your wall. (construction drawings for our entire house take 2 weeks) Any structural engineering firm should be able to make such a calculation. Best
skuggan: I'm quite sure I saw it at Coop when I was running around there a couple of days ago. However, I don't know what it cost there.
Bokholmen: I've been in the same situation as you. Generally speaking, I don't think there's a big difference in quality but rather a difference in what the stores mark up. In my case, it has often been the case that where they sell cheap tiles, they have been expensive with adhesive, grout, etc.
Gutte: If you have an attic in the house, it's perfect to route the telephone cable that way. That's what we've done, and we will also route the TV cable through the attic. (Today it also goes through a window frame). Keep in mind if you have plaster over the brick, to vacuum while you drill. If you have light plaster and, for example, red brick underneath, the drilling dust might unfortunately stain
zankan: [citat] Yeah, but 10% to pick out good pieces feels like a bit of a "waste of time", I'd rather buy it without searching. One or another twisted piece doesn't make much difference. You can always straighten out such wide pieces.....
abel48: Thanks will go to Coop Forum and check it out then. It cost 2890:- there. Good price. Best regards, Anders
a4wils: Hello, I have quite a bit of experience with Hornbach in Gothenburg after several construction projects. The pricing varies. They are generally cheaper than Bauhaus, but often Clas Ohlson, Jula, or Coop Forum are cheaper. Their price guarantee doesn't mean they are the cheapest (warning!). Additionally, it is difficult to compare (their idea) because they often have their own brands (see below).
dadid: This thread has been moved to [link=http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=verktyg;action=display;num=1106731852;start=0]Tools and Machines[/link] by Marlene Eskilsson.
Strisak: Got some advice on this elsewhere. The glass blocks should be installed last. That is, the work of waterproofing the area, laying tiles, and grouting should be done first. According to my source, a gluing is the most stable method. There is a type of plastic rail used between wall and glass block, and between glass blocks. No lintel was needed then to make the structure more stable, it should
Snickarkungen: If you're going to have underfloor heating, fiber-reinforced is probably recommended, considering the tensions that arise in the floor...
houseless: I am very interested in Hedared! Waiting for a quote from them... and would really like to hear more info from those of you with experience with Hedared S&B. Thanks in advance :)
bogaboga: Have called around to some here in the vicinity, got a price of 275kr/hour + assistant for about 100 kr/hour. Sounds quite reasonable, now I just need to try to get someone to drive it away... Gladly accepting more tips and opinions! ;) Best regards Tobbe
Strisak: Would probably not have chosen wood as a base. It is not sturdy enough for the glass = joint cracking. Leca will be good.