On the one hand, it seems as though the values are "approved." But the trend is moving towards Radon becoming more and more "disapproved," i.e., the requirements both as limit values and in people's awareness are increasing.
This makes me reason that even if I'm not worried for my own sake or dare to not be worried for the children's sake, there is a great risk that the general tolerance for radon decreases each year. That is, the price reduction for radon will increase each year in the market, as more and more will choose to avoid radon houses.
Therefore, I believe that by the time it's time to sell the house, a house in blåbetong will have had a poorer value development than a house that lacks this problem. Whether this poorer value development results in an actual loss or just a lower profit, future price developments will show.
This makes me reason that even if I'm not worried for my own sake or dare to not be worried for the children's sake, there is a great risk that the general tolerance for radon decreases each year. That is, the price reduction for radon will increase each year in the market, as more and more will choose to avoid radon houses.
Therefore, I believe that by the time it's time to sell the house, a house in blåbetong will have had a poorer value development than a house that lacks this problem. Whether this poorer value development results in an actual loss or just a lower profit, future price developments will show.
Hi Hi,
it seems like low values if it's just the original natural ventilation! A bit too good.
You can "demand" that the seller covers a remediation, i.e., installs a mechanical system.
-alt1 inexpensive. Exhaust air only. A fan is installed in the attic along with pipes (spiro). Exhaust valves are installed in the kitchen as well as the bathroom and WC. You should complement with air valves in all other rooms (valve in upper window frame) or a valve in the wall (better).
-alt2 the best. Mechanical supply and exhaust air with heat recovery. The difference is that you also have supply air in non-wet rooms. A unit with a heat pump (can provide cooling in summer) can be obtained from 30,000.
With both options, you will notice a significant improvement in the indoor climate.
I also think you can get a remediation grant, check with the municipality.
I have lived in a radon house that had incredible +10,000 becquerels (old measuring method, equivalent to 5,000 now, I think). It was blue lightweight concrete and ground radon.
A previous owner installed supply/exhaust air and the value became 380 with air exchange 1/1!.
I snooped around a bit and sealed floors and put a suction in an access hole to the sewer cleaning pipe (was like a chimney for ground radon). Got the average value down to 60!!!! with air exchange at the normal level 0.5/h.
I wouldn't worry if you got the level down. Even new wooden houses can have radon levels (from the ground) but if they are under 200 nothing is written in the property description, etc.
That the house would become less valuable is speculation, in my opinion. The change in value depends more on the area itself, and we have a strong price trend (should turn at some point?). If there are many houses to choose from that are otherwise similar, you choose one without radon, but there aren't many houses...
This is a difficult area that one is not completely sure about. Yes, people have died/do die from radon. Also smoking, alcohol, sex, roads, WRONG FOOD, etc., etc.
It is your choice. If there are more houses you are choosing between that are equivalent, it is better to take another one, I believe.
Good luck!
it seems like low values if it's just the original natural ventilation! A bit too good.
You can "demand" that the seller covers a remediation, i.e., installs a mechanical system.
-alt1 inexpensive. Exhaust air only. A fan is installed in the attic along with pipes (spiro). Exhaust valves are installed in the kitchen as well as the bathroom and WC. You should complement with air valves in all other rooms (valve in upper window frame) or a valve in the wall (better).
-alt2 the best. Mechanical supply and exhaust air with heat recovery. The difference is that you also have supply air in non-wet rooms. A unit with a heat pump (can provide cooling in summer) can be obtained from 30,000.
With both options, you will notice a significant improvement in the indoor climate.
I also think you can get a remediation grant, check with the municipality.
I have lived in a radon house that had incredible +10,000 becquerels (old measuring method, equivalent to 5,000 now, I think). It was blue lightweight concrete and ground radon.
A previous owner installed supply/exhaust air and the value became 380 with air exchange 1/1!.
I snooped around a bit and sealed floors and put a suction in an access hole to the sewer cleaning pipe (was like a chimney for ground radon). Got the average value down to 60!!!! with air exchange at the normal level 0.5/h.
I wouldn't worry if you got the level down. Even new wooden houses can have radon levels (from the ground) but if they are under 200 nothing is written in the property description, etc.
That the house would become less valuable is speculation, in my opinion. The change in value depends more on the area itself, and we have a strong price trend (should turn at some point?). If there are many houses to choose from that are otherwise similar, you choose one without radon, but there aren't many houses...
This is a difficult area that one is not completely sure about. Yes, people have died/do die from radon. Also smoking, alcohol, sex, roads, WRONG FOOD, etc., etc.
It is your choice. If there are more houses you are choosing between that are equivalent, it is better to take another one, I believe.
Good luck!
It's strange that you have lower values in the basement than on the ground floor; it's usually the other way around. In basements, there's also radiation from, for example, ground radon. Isn't the basement built with blåbeong?
One thing to check is how well insulated the house is. If the wind blows straight through, values decrease, which is good from a health perspective, but if you want to seal, insulate, and replace windows for better energy efficiency, the new values can increase three to fourfold. To avoid this problem, you must install a type of FTX ventilation system. These are things to consider before buying the house and perhaps budget for.
Everything can be fixed as long as you think a little first...
Regards, plexi
One thing to check is how well insulated the house is. If the wind blows straight through, values decrease, which is good from a health perspective, but if you want to seal, insulate, and replace windows for better energy efficiency, the new values can increase three to fourfold. To avoid this problem, you must install a type of FTX ventilation system. These are things to consider before buying the house and perhaps budget for.
Everything can be fixed as long as you think a little first...
Regards, plexi
I was also thinking that the values looked a bit strange. You might want to get a "quick check" done, such measurements are not at all as reliable as the type of long-term measurement that seems to have been done. But if it is the case that the long-term measurement was perhaps done with the measuring devices placed at mom's home or in the desk drawer at work, then a short-term measurement could reveal that.
Cubix, what I meant was that it probably won't decrease more than others. That the value is lower compared to an identical one without radon is clear.
Yes, we can probably all agree that it IS a lower value, and if that "discount" is constant over the years, then it's not a problem. Buy cheap, sell cheap. But my guess is that as regulations and "public perception" about radon tighten, combined with the problem gradually being solved, the discount for radon will become larger and larger. In other words, the value development will be worse for a radon house than for houses without this issue. Whether it ends up being 1%, 10%, or 50% worse over a 10-year period is just speculation.
By the problem being solved, I mean that new houses are constantly being built, decreasing the proportion of "affected" houses, and many houses are being rectified each year. Especially houses with ground radon.
By the problem being solved, I mean that new houses are constantly being built, decreasing the proportion of "affected" houses, and many houses are being rectified each year. Especially houses with ground radon.
What I've heard is that ventilation works best if it's about ground radon.
IF the measurements you mention are correct, then you really wouldn't need to ventilate more, (and that's what sounds a bit odd).
IF the measurements you mention are correct, then you really wouldn't need to ventilate more, (and that's what sounds a bit odd).
Hello Ingo!
One thing I mentioned is that ALL houses will have readings if you measure! However, they are often low.
Many apartment buildings have radon levels that are borderline.
With a good functioning ventilation system, the levels will be lower. If you invest a bit in recovery, you essentially get the ventilation for free and a good indoor climate.
For ground radon, it is common to first draw the radon out from the house, for example in a well, or by suction under the slab.
For blåbetong, VENTILATION is the key, as nothing else works.
With many bidders, it sounds like the price might go up.
Perhaps it's better to look a little further from the area?
One thing I mentioned is that ALL houses will have readings if you measure! However, they are often low.
Many apartment buildings have radon levels that are borderline.
With a good functioning ventilation system, the levels will be lower. If you invest a bit in recovery, you essentially get the ventilation for free and a good indoor climate.
For ground radon, it is common to first draw the radon out from the house, for example in a well, or by suction under the slab.
For blåbetong, VENTILATION is the key, as nothing else works.
With many bidders, it sounds like the price might go up.
Perhaps it's better to look a little further from the area?
Regardless of whether the radon comes from the ground or the walls, it can be ventilated away since radon is a gas. What happens with radon is that its unstable isotopes decay into smaller atoms while ionizing radiation is released. The radon itself comes from the decay of uranium found in alum shale, which is an ingredient in blåbetong. When the uranium decays, radon and radiation are released. Radioactive isotopes are everywhere. What is risky about radon is that we inhale the gas, which then decays in our lungs, and the radiation that can then occur does so directly in the lungs, which can lead to lung cancer. The radiation directly from the decaying uranium is not much worse than the radioactive isotopes of calcium in a double gypsum wall.
Best regards plexi
Best regards plexi
Plexi,
good clarification
good clarification
Well, there is probably an elevated risk. The problem is where do the boundaries lie?
If you can get the house cheaply and carry out the suggested actions, I wouldn't be worried.
Do you drive the best and safest car?
If you buy a car for, let's say 200,000, do you check braking distances, crash tests, fire safety?
One is often not so careful and is stingy in many safety matters...
There's probably no one other than yourself who can determine what is right for YOUR situation.
Here you have received many answers and opinions.
If you can get the house cheaply and carry out the suggested actions, I wouldn't be worried.
Do you drive the best and safest car?
If you buy a car for, let's say 200,000, do you check braking distances, crash tests, fire safety?
One is often not so careful and is stingy in many safety matters...
There's probably no one other than yourself who can determine what is right for YOUR situation.
Here you have received many answers and opinions.
Weird comparison with the car.....I think.... I wouldn't buy any car that I knew emitted crap...
Of course, at least I look at what safety features a car has when I choose a car.... I definitely don't mean that I'm overly safety-conscious but moderation is probably best....
Of course, at least I look at what safety features a car has when I choose a car.... I definitely don't mean that I'm overly safety-conscious but moderation is probably best....