Working with Isoleca blocks?

[Draven]

Any experiences with this? For example, if you choose to plaster the inside, you have to mill in the vp-pipes for the fk cables for the electricity beforehand. Is it smooth?

 

[Magnus_Nordmark]

I've built a couple of foundations with ISO-leca blocks... Not a fun thing at all.. I might be picky about safety and work environment, but if you want to stay in the profession for a long time, you can't deal with those blocks every day right.. ;-)

The blocks are large, heavy (to be lifted maybe 500 times)...

But sure, once they're in place, it's probably fine... If you ignore the thermal bridges. ;-)

 

[Draven]

Thank you Magnus.
I've been on the phone with several suppliers now who advocate for isoleca blocks (luckily the forum exists to get a neutral point of view now and then) .
Regarding the thermal bridges, they guarantee a U-value of 0.27 with a block of 290mm (80+130+80), so that seems to be okay. But then the nice thing is that you should be able to screw the gypsum board directly onto the Isoblock (possibly a wooden board before to screw into, although I can't remember what it's called...), AND the supplier then says that the part of the frame that is below ground needs to use regular lecablocks??? How does that work with moisture/condensation issues when attaching the wood board + 13mm gypsum directly? The advantage of this somewhat more expensive construction is that you avoid plastering or framing the walls...

 

[Magnus_Nordmark]

Thanks, Magnus. I've been on the phone with several suppliers who advocate isolecablock (luckily the forum exists for a neutral viewpoint now and then) . Regarding the thermal bridges, they guarantee a U-value of 0.27 with a block of 290mm (80+130+80), so that seems okay. But then the great thing is that you can screw the gypsum board directly onto the Isoblock (possibly a wooden board before to screw into, though I can't remember what it's called...), AND the supplier then says that the part of the frame that's below ground must be regular lecablock??? How does that work with moisture/condensation problems when attaching a wooden board + 13mm plasterboard directly onto it? The advantage of this somewhat more expensive construction is that you don't need to plaster or frame the walls...

I'm not confident to answer about condensation, it's not my area. Since platon is placed externally, the water situation from outside is the same, regardless of regular blocks or isoblocks.