Hi everyone!
I read about the thread on moving timber houses that was discussed last year.
We are in a similar situation. We have an old timber frame (17 x 7 meters) and we have a plot of land.
What I want input on is:
What might it cost to move, set up, and get it in order?
What type of foundation should we have (slab or crawl space)?
We have plans ready, we have submitted a building permit application (ready soon). Now we proceed with procurement and negotiations with banks.
We would love to receive any tips from those of you with experience!!!
The timber frame is in Västerbotten, the plot is just outside Östersund....
Maria
I read about the thread on moving timber houses that was discussed last year.
We are in a similar situation. We have an old timber frame (17 x 7 meters) and we have a plot of land.
What I want input on is:
What might it cost to move, set up, and get it in order?
What type of foundation should we have (slab or crawl space)?
We have plans ready, we have submitted a building permit application (ready soon). Now we proceed with procurement and negotiations with banks.
We would love to receive any tips from those of you with experience!!!
The timber frame is in Västerbotten, the plot is just outside Östersund....
Maria
If the timber frame is empty and lacks paneling, etc., the move is quickly completed. I have moved a smaller frame (about 8x5 meters, can't remember exactly). Once the interior, ceiling, and roof were removed, we took it down in a day, and the reassembly took about the same amount of time. This assumes the frame is healthy, marked, and doesn't need repairs. We had some problems with the ridge due to it not being properly marked :-X
It's fun to see more people going with this idea!
Don't underestimate the time it takes to dismantle the log structure. Our house is 9x16, and it probably took two weeks for two people to take it down.
The logs need to be loosened, lowered, bundled for transport, etc. It takes a lot of time. On the other hand, our house was 7 meters high, and the upper rows take much longer.
We did everything by hand. The risk with using a crane and grab is that you can crush the timber with the grab, or sometimes the very long logs can break. In an old house, the timber is very dry and brittle. When it gives way, it breaks immediately.
We moved in last fall, almost three years after the demolition started. However, we did a lot ourselves, and the house is large. Even the foundation (cellar) took its time.
Where in Västerbotten?
/Jögga in Norrbotten (on the border to V-botten)
Don't underestimate the time it takes to dismantle the log structure. Our house is 9x16, and it probably took two weeks for two people to take it down.
The logs need to be loosened, lowered, bundled for transport, etc. It takes a lot of time. On the other hand, our house was 7 meters high, and the upper rows take much longer.
We did everything by hand. The risk with using a crane and grab is that you can crush the timber with the grab, or sometimes the very long logs can break. In an old house, the timber is very dry and brittle. When it gives way, it breaks immediately.
We moved in last fall, almost three years after the demolition started. However, we did a lot ourselves, and the house is large. Even the foundation (cellar) took its time.
Where in Västerbotten?
/Jögga in Norrbotten (on the border to V-botten)
Hello!
I am also in the process of moving a timber house, from Insjön to Ljusterö north of Stockholm. I plan to do almost all the work myself.
For the foundation, it will probably be natural stone under the corners and beneath them concrete posts down to frost-free depth. This foundation method is described in the book "Flyttning av gamla hus" from Gysinge byggnadsvårdscentrum.
Later, you can add a dry stone wall with natural stones.
The advantages of this foundation are that it becomes very well-ventilated, and you need to insulate the framework properly instead. It's easy to do yourself and thus cheap. For me, it also feels important that the foundation matches the house's old style.
Hans
I am also in the process of moving a timber house, from Insjön to Ljusterö north of Stockholm. I plan to do almost all the work myself.
For the foundation, it will probably be natural stone under the corners and beneath them concrete posts down to frost-free depth. This foundation method is described in the book "Flyttning av gamla hus" from Gysinge byggnadsvårdscentrum.
Later, you can add a dry stone wall with natural stones.
The advantages of this foundation are that it becomes very well-ventilated, and you need to insulate the framework properly instead. It's easy to do yourself and thus cheap. For me, it also feels important that the foundation matches the house's old style.
Hans