Building Materials and Construction Technology
rudivoller: Aha. Then it'll be birch (even though square plugs in larch or oak would have been really really cool. :P
Johannabacken: Will attach fence posts. Is there no "goja" you can use if you drill a hole roughly the same dimension as the post shoe? /J
MathiasS: I don't own a dredger either. >:( ...and even if I own both a crane and a dredger - how do you get a couple of cubic meters of oak to the mainland and the nearest buyer.... Well, if I manage to dig up the piece of wood, I'll be satisfied. The transport can entertain the children and future grandchildren.
Mikael_D: This thread has been moved to [link=http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=VVS;action=display;num=1128968334;start=0]Heating, Water, Ventilation[/link] by MathiasS.
Johannabacken: Had I not, so now I know what "sockelputs" is (Thanks) but according to STO you can only use the products for their specific purpose, it's kind of their business idea. So the question remains, how big is the difference really between "sockelputs" and cement? Can I build some Leca with it or is it doomed? What happens if I try to cast with it? Has anyone tried or has a theoretical idea? ///Johan
Mjölnaren: Depending on the thickness you saw............... 8) It can also be underlay foam. Available in different thicknesses, the thinnest I believe is 3 mm. Used to lay between the "old floor" and the "new". But maybe you were looking at new construction ;)
Hans32: This is how it is isolated at my home; it's an Eksjöhus Sandhem. Before and after loose fill insulation. [bild] [bild] [bild]
krillek: If you are going to stand and work at your desk for a long time, then Platon + a suitable overfloor is ideal. It makes it easy to clean and comfortable to stand on as well.
hempularen: Perhaps there is reason to try to determine what is wrong as well. Why is it damaged? If the damages are extensive, you might consider first making a provisional reinforcement before you start sawing into it.
saturnus: It is appropriate to choose the fresh air intake in the slab. But o`key if you choose to have the wood-burning stove against an exterior wall, it is naturally possible to have the intake on the wall; it will be a bit higher on the wall then. When you choose a wood-burning stove, keep in mind that it does not retain any heat, except for an hour or so after the fire has gone out. I have a Handöl
roax66: Thank you AB for the answer. Tigersåg seems to be exactly what I'm looking for.
synpunkter: Gypsym natural plaster and a plaster net/plastering net. The plaster is sticky and sticks much easier than mortar. Additionally, you can shape it by sanding afterwards.
jonasb: One must be extremely careful when insulating well-sealed/log tight timber frames from the inside. If they are tight, due to their good insulation, there is a risk that the dew point ends up inside the frame, which will inevitably lead to the log freezing and breaking apart!!!! :-[ If the frame is not sufficiently tight or if logs (<6 inches) have been used for the frame, the following
mattiasp: The job might already be done, but wouldn't it be easiest to remove the 20 cm wall and start over? You have to buy whole boards anyway!
tommiz: A hood made of lightweight concrete is not terribly heavy. Mine is still hanging on at least ;D My hood cost 1500kr compared to the mookåpa which would have cost about 18000kr. Best regards, Tommy [bild]
morsan: Unfortunately :( and there isn't much via Google either http://www.cellexbuildingsystem.com/ You have to call there and ask :-/ It seems to be an interesting system ;)
snuttjulle: Was my thought as well. Similarly, using leca feels unnecessary since isodrän is capillary breaking. But maybe someone has their own money press in the basement. :P
snuttjulle: Probably going to buy the shower corner first so I know where to put an extra stud. With just 30cm, there's not much room to play with. ;) One reason I don't want plasterboard is exactly because of the bathroom in the basement, but thanks for the tip.
macdiver: Did you use platon blå or platon multi? The difference between them is that blå is for floors with a thickness of more than 12mm. Multi is for floor thickness less than 12mm. Then I wonder if you have platon ventitex under the platon mat; it is supposed to prevent clapper noise according to isola. I would appreciate it if you could answer, as I am planning to install a platon mat myself and
rudivoller: It is said that tjärolja is supposed to be the best. Read more at www.dalfrid.com
zankan: Increasing the number of spikes does not always lead to increased strength as one must consider the wood quality and the center-to-center distance between spikes... But normally, you don't need as many spikes as you might think...
Johan Gunverth: Contact adhesive with terrible solvents is the only way to go. Alternatively, 3M Displaymount, which is essentially contact adhesive in a spray can.
David: Hi Morgan, There's a wealth of information on this topic in this forum. Use the "Search the forum" function. Good luck with your purchases! Best regards, David
Goggen: I would have chosen 45x195 at cc 30 cm. For recommendations on substrate for tiles, you can check http://www.gvk.se/upload/bjalklagsnyckel.pdf.
isolde: Xella, which owns the Ytong brand, recommends Silka for interior walls. Silka provides better sound insulation than Ytong and is available in a version with pre-prepared channels for, among other things, electrical installations. What tummemittihanden saw, I will leave unsaid. ;)
UoC: A tip is to read the following from SSI: http://www.ssi.se/radon/pdf/RadonCancer2art_snytt.pdf In this writing, it states, among other things: "The risk for a 75-year-old who has never smoked to develop lung cancer is at 0, 100, and 400 Bq/m³ 0.4, 0.5, and 0.7 percent, respectively. If the 75-year-old were a smoker, the initial risk is 10 percent and then 12 and 16 percent at the mentioned radon
danneoullis: Building a new Myresjöhus where we have planned a large balcony on the upper floor. The price for the covering plate including labor is about 1000 m2.... This is so the balcony will be "sealed" and the space underneath it can be used even in the rain! How/if can this be solved by oneself and at what approximate cost (the balcony is about 11m long and 2.5m deep… so it's quite a sum :P