Building Materials and Construction Technology
OddJ: I would have screwed drywall onto the wood fiber boards. The room would be 2 x 13 mm narrower, but one can probably live with that. No insulation deterioration and less work. Just make sure to have the correct screw length!
Danne_Bobo: Thank you, this sounds reasonable. I got an estimate from one of the inspectors who is a former carpenter - He said something around 200,000 SEK for the job. The house itself has been rated well so to speak, and the price was reasonable before this was discovered, so now I guess I'll have to put pressure on the seller and see if we can haggle :o
Guzzi: [citat] Did they use sandblasting, hydrochloric acid, or a rotating steel brush then? ::)
David: The search function can be a bit tricky. Here is a selection of more or less useful links: http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=byggmatr;action=display;num=1121421499;start= http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=byggmatr;action=display;num=1122814336;start=3#3 http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=byggmatr;action=display;num=1120906960;start=0#0
zaxter: I also have Träullit in the basement. It looks like this when it has been torn down from covering the concrete wall. [bild]
David: [citat] It depends. There are certainly thin and cheap doors in Poland just like in Sweden. But I have also seen examples of quality doors unmatched in Sweden. However, these have been in the 5,000 kronor range. Incredibly stylish but also very expensive. regards David
Langbein: I have only found Baltic in round timber, it might burn too well. We would preferably build with stone, otherwise an almost fireproof wooden house if possible. Any other links?
zaxter: They don't know that. You have to state your municipality at the reception. Being (honest) as I am, I said that I lived in a nearby municipality. My municipality has an agreement with the recycling station, which I thought also covered asbestos. But it seemed that it only applied to household waste. But after some discussion about why there was an agreement with the company in the first place if
phulden: [citat] Great, and thanks for the help. Anyone else know anything?
stiffe: Hello. I need to cast and raise the top of my water well by about 45 mm. It is located right at ground level with the risk of getting meltwater etc. in it. It is a stone-lined dug well with a large, on-site cast top. I'm thinking of wrapping a flat iron around the old ring and reinforcing and casting. What should I use to cast with? It should be strong enough to drive a car over. Best regards,
sybrig: Thanks for all the answers. I also found myself: lindab rainline. Found pictures on an Estonian site: http://www.rootsiprofiil.ee/index.php?go=products&cat_id=5 Pretty nice, I think.
AndersG: It turned out to be Hilti HSA-R. Not so very cheap though.
IFK: It goes a bit up and down with the clinginess. Now it seems to be a bit of a rebellious phase so the clinginess increases with reprimands... Maybe you are right about it being a so-so solution with a railing, a glass wall might be preferable. Because barbed wire is not so aesthetic either... :-/ Pictures/links/suggestions are gratefully received even going forward...
diziz: I have just finished laying 90-95 sqm of chipboard flooring with the exact Chipboard screws you described in the white-transparent boxes. (500 pack). It has taken two and a half packs, and I must say I am extremely satisfied with them. Cheap, good fit, and easy to work with.
Mangelito: Thank you. Could only buy a full carton for 1800kr. He had no distributors. Too stingy when I need 20 meters and forced to buy 200 meters. Thanks for the tip.
1971: Two of the walls are exterior walls and the house is from 1929, which means there isn't much insulation, basically none! I would be grateful if I could get help with the following questions: 1. Is the fiberboard necessary or can I just go directly with plasterboard? Has it served any purpose other than smoothing the surface? 2. Vapor barrier, do I need it (there hasn't been one). If needed, how
Eld: I find roller gates cumbersome to handle and also easy to leave open. It's not a good combination... It's true that the gate should ideally be positioned so that the child cannot climb onto the first step. However, it's not always possible to arrange that with a reasonable intervention. [bild]
janssonj: [citat] Doesn't sound like a good idea at all. You need to have air circulation underneath, otherwise it will start to mold.
drx: [citat] I can recommend IKEA if you want to keep costs down with the kitchen. I managed to save money on materials by being in the right place at the right time. If you find something cheap that you know you will need later, just buy it. I had a whole pallet of tiles and ceramics standing in the garage for 1 year before I did my bathroom. ;) Good luck :)
kyticka: Does anyone know where you can get custom-made doors for a fireplace - with curved glass (like a slice of cake)
kyticka: Take the board to the builders' merchant, they can cut it for a cheap price, sometimes completely free ::)
Haagbard: ......yes and I have it in the car ;) I was thinking of suggesting: http://www.hulten.nu/ and http://www.interwood.se/index.html or http://www.adeltralagret.se/produkter.html From what I see, none of them explicitly state that they have Zebrano, but they surely know where to turn to.
lano: This thread has been moved to [link=http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Fonster;action=display;num=1125243650;start=0]Windows and Doors[/link] by MathiasS.
lano: There is an internal wall above (at least 4 meters). Is it possible to make the wall on the upper floor load-bearing in some way, i.e., that it "supports" the underside of the roof truss (the floor joist)? Are there any "rules of thumb" for the loads that should be considered?
spisen: This thread has been moved to [link=http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=fasad;action=display;num=1125259104;start=0]Fasad[/link] by MathiasS.
saidlasf: Hello As long as they are not underwater, they probably won't freeze and crack. I built up half of the basement walls last summer and I didn't cover them during the winter, and nothing has happened. As Haagbard wrote, it's worse with Ytong because it takes longer for the water to dry out/evaporate. But a tarp doesn't hurt :) Said