I paid about 160:- per sqm for 10cm boards and the concrete ready-mixed cost about 1000:- per cubic meter and 500:- for delivery without VAT. Then it's just a matter of calculating. 
I figured that ready-mixed concrete was cheaper since I don't have a hook on the car and would have needed to buy delivery of sand, etc., to mix myself. It was heavy to manually move about 1 cubic meter by hand and alone, but it took about 1 hour, and considering they charged about 3500:- for a concrete pump truck, it was easy money saved.
I figured that ready-mixed concrete was cheaper since I don't have a hook on the car and would have needed to buy delivery of sand, etc., to mix myself. It was heavy to manually move about 1 cubic meter by hand and alone, but it took about 1 hour, and considering they charged about 3500:- for a concrete pump truck, it was easy money saved.
So what was the final cost for you with everything? How big was the room?
The room is 10.8 square meters, but I haven't determined the price yet as I haven't received invoices from Betongen or those who collected all the masses that were excavated. Furthermore, these figures can't be transferred to your floor since my room is a bathroom, so I have a lot of insulation and drainage that you probably don't have in the boiler room.
actually have a drain..: thanks for all the answers!
thanks for all the answers!Hello,
I did exactly what you're supposed to do, but I started in the spring when there's a warm period ahead. I found it scary to drive away and dig down. Under my old concrete floor, there were rock and crushed stone (large stones). Our advisor said that for all the world, you should NOT go under the foundation wall, i.e., the wall the walls stand on. We did it anyway in certain places because I finally got a feeling of how far you could go. In one place, we went down about 1.5 m when we laid drainage pipes.
Tips:
We insulated from the bottom up with (see my previous posts) LECA balls, geotextile, plastic film (construction plastic 0.2) to keep out potential ground radon, 2 layers of isodrän, totaling 20 cm, geotextile, and finished with reinforced concrete 6c, I think it was (the concrete supplier knows about that). Then we chose to cast in underfloor heating (waterborne) in the concrete floor as it saves floor height and water since it is better from an energy point of view (can be connected to pellets, etc.). Then we run electricity, LAN, telephone, TV in the floor to avoid unsightly cable routing on the wall. The area we are going to lay is 60+20 sqm (step 2). Casting 60 sqm costs about a 20 SEK (5.5 cubic meters) if you outsource it, which I recommend. isodrän 200*60=12K SEK (check on blocket where I found someone selling for 100 SEK per sqm) then you need reinforcement mats (5*2.35 costs 478+VAT at Nyströms cement in Rö north of Stockholm), binding wire, spacer blocks (1.8 each at Nyströms in the city 3.5!!!) and some other things. LECA balls 92 SEK+VAT very cheap! The underfloor heating costs 23K SEK, which includes 6 loops + control equipment and installation. We plan to install a system combined with geothermal heating and solar panels with 2 accumulator tanks possibly connected to briquette heating.
Good luck
Mikael_hempulare ;D
I did exactly what you're supposed to do, but I started in the spring when there's a warm period ahead. I found it scary to drive away and dig down. Under my old concrete floor, there were rock and crushed stone (large stones). Our advisor said that for all the world, you should NOT go under the foundation wall, i.e., the wall the walls stand on. We did it anyway in certain places because I finally got a feeling of how far you could go. In one place, we went down about 1.5 m when we laid drainage pipes.
Tips:
We insulated from the bottom up with (see my previous posts) LECA balls, geotextile, plastic film (construction plastic 0.2) to keep out potential ground radon, 2 layers of isodrän, totaling 20 cm, geotextile, and finished with reinforced concrete 6c, I think it was (the concrete supplier knows about that). Then we chose to cast in underfloor heating (waterborne) in the concrete floor as it saves floor height and water since it is better from an energy point of view (can be connected to pellets, etc.). Then we run electricity, LAN, telephone, TV in the floor to avoid unsightly cable routing on the wall. The area we are going to lay is 60+20 sqm (step 2). Casting 60 sqm costs about a 20 SEK (5.5 cubic meters) if you outsource it, which I recommend. isodrän 200*60=12K SEK (check on blocket where I found someone selling for 100 SEK per sqm) then you need reinforcement mats (5*2.35 costs 478+VAT at Nyströms cement in Rö north of Stockholm), binding wire, spacer blocks (1.8 each at Nyströms in the city 3.5!!!) and some other things. LECA balls 92 SEK+VAT very cheap! The underfloor heating costs 23K SEK, which includes 6 loops + control equipment and installation. We plan to install a system combined with geothermal heating and solar panels with 2 accumulator tanks possibly connected to briquette heating.
Good luck
Mikael_hempulare ;D
Was my thought as well. Similarly, using leca feels unnecessary since isodrän is capillary breaking. But maybe someone has their own money press in the basement.