Building Materials and Construction Technology
Bob_the_builder: This has been discussed before on the forum, there is probably some information to find if you search for e.g. "AMA". AMA is not a law and not even a standard. It is a collection of different solutions that can be referred to when drafting a contract. So if the craftsman says "it's in AMA," it's not acceptable if something else has been agreed upon. The problem with us private customers is
JesperS: I have a tiled corner (former stove area) that I would like to keep, but temporarily cover with drywall. The drywall should be removable in about 10-15 years without the tiles coming off or breaking... Is there a good adhesive one can use for this??
snuttjulle: What type of render they used when building the house I have no idea. And I have read here that more people have rendered etc., but I haven't found anyone who perhaps made a silly mistake or maybe came up with something as a tip that isn't in the manufacturers' instructions.
Phille: [citat] Well, container/tipping fees/transport costs you have to pay in any case... the only thing that actually becomes extra is the excavator, which can cost 300-600kr per hour plus delivery. But then you avoid the rental for the containers, and not least, you avoid a lot of "unnecessary" hassle...
zeb7890: This thread has been moved to [link=http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Isolering;action=display;num=1129531594;start=0]Isolering[/link] by MathiasS.
Mattis: Hello! My recommendation is that you lay along the entire wall with isodrän. Why? Well, Isodrän acts as an insulating factor; some say it raises the temperature by 2-4°C in, for example, the basement, which is quite significant for energy-saving purposes. If you were to stop 30-40 cm below the ground surface, there is a risk that the water sinking along the wall will be absorbed by the wall,
Mattis: OK. What you wrote Bleppe about taking down a cabinet on the wall to be able to light a fire, how is it really with adjacent walls, because a chimney rarely stands completely alone, how does it work????
Mattis: This thread has been moved to [link=http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Grund;action=display;num=1129531560;start=0]Foundation and ground works[/link] by MathiasS.
Mattis: As you can see, there are many solutions and none are wrong, take the one you feel is good for the wallet :D
gaia: Know nothing about clay tiles, but I think you should avoid cement in/on your brick walls. Lime mortar/plaster feels more right. gaia
Dany365: This thread has been moved to [link=http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Isolering;action=display;num=1129531506;start=0]Isolering[/link] by MathiasS.
steffen: Hello, Moken Interesting reading that your thread has resulted in. I have, with the help of a carpenter, just erected our house with two mono-pitched roofs angled against each other in a glued-laminated timber construction. The drawing was done by an architect, but I checked the sizing of beams and columns with Moelven (they assist with simple sizing at no cost), so I got approval from them.
ByggaNytt: I have up to 3.5 to the ceiling, so I had to splice! Bevel both short edges properly, tape, plaster, etc. However, it's not possible to get a completely invisible seam, as my ceiling spotlights create grazing light downwards so....
Per_Eriksson: You basically only need something that covers the side of the bed since most beds are self-supporting (usually standing on 4 legs). Make the wall out of 2"x2" or similar, cover it with a board on both sides, and place a 2"x4" on its edge along the outside. Add a board on top which you bring up a bit, creating a notch at the top to make it look nice. Then you can attach small brackets to the
ByggaNytt: Good! Cost has such a dull ring to it, we call it an investment for the future :D You will find great use for OSB when things need to be set up in the house later. That it then gives a more "solid" feel to the house isn't wrong either. I don't have a single crack/deformation in my painted walls/ceilings after 1.5 years. The damages that exist are the children's doing ;)
gogu: You must not enclose the chimney if there is a flue behind it used for burning as this can cause the house to catch fire. When I installed a masonry stove, I had to use the ventilation channel and on that side of the chimney, there was nailed raw paneling, which the chimney sweeper told me I had to tear down. No studs may rest against the chimney either. If there are pipes inside the flue, I
rudivoller: Hello! I am currently in the process of planning to build a gate. The gate will have a frame construction that is joined half-and-half. In building descriptions, it is often stated that the joints should be glued and screwed together. What does that actually mean? I understand the glue part, of course, but the screwing? Is it a coach screw? Smaller screw? Carriage bolt? A carriage bolt wouldn't
Coronet: I am worried that warm air from the glass veranda condenses when it hits the cold metal sheet that acts as the floor of the balcony above. I am considering tearing down the ceiling to address any potential moisture problems. Does anyone have tips on how to ventilate away the warm indoor air between the glass veranda ceiling and the balcony floor while also adding some insulation in the ceiling?
matosov: Hello, I am renovating a house from the 1920s. The walls are masonry. Both interior and exterior walls, and ceilings are plastered. Unfortunately, there are quite a few cracks in the ceilings. So far, I have scraped out the cracks and filled them with sand filler. Is that okay?? The cracks become half to one centimeter deep after scraping, with reed visible at the bottom. It looks good after I
Johannabacken: I think dorocell was a superb solution for our basement floor. My experience is that it becomes cheaper than leca because it requires fewer building hours and it becomes insulated "automatically". (Now there is cheap labor, so the hours might cancel out...) /J.
Mats: Enough that they are cheap, but they don't cost under 100:- ;D and I rented a Hilti for a whole weekend last summer. I promise the Hilti bites better and with the right drill bits (i.e., very expensive), most rebar gives way quite quickly. However, one should not drill on/through the rebar as it can weaken the structure.
Johannabacken: Thank you, then a bag of cement A seems good. Do you think I can also use the base plaster I have lying around? /J-backen
snuttjulle: The models I have seen are meant to be plastered in during construction, so a bit late to think of. ;) I'm in the same unfortunate situation otherwise:(. Built my own arch without casing to get a sleek opening but have now discovered that the corners get damaged by kids, etc., cutting across. Our idea is to buy aluminum angle profile and glue or screw it onto the lower meter or so. It can be
