Building Materials and Construction Technology
Fasting65: Exactly, silicone strips are apparently the best... Check with the glazier. You're sure to get a whole 100-meter roll at a bargain price. That's what I got. They also threw in 2 tubes of silicone for me. Besides, the glazier didn't like rubber strips with adhesive. "That kind of crap shouldn't be sold! It comes loose and doesn't hold well."
Lurvnos: In Örebro: http://www.smidesverkstaden.com/ What I have seen of her work has been very good.
snuttjulle: Emailed them since their website didn’t provide much info and wasn’t fully functional. The response I got was that it could be resolved with fire glass, but they said it was expensive and not worth it. So now it's about building the wall with another material. Anyone with tips? Framing up with plasterboard doesn’t feel right so it will probably be some type of masonry. Should I go for
stenhus05: Yes, but not of the actual wardrobe interior, only the mirror sliding doors and they were of very good quality. Best regards, stenhus05
stenhus05: Hi Jesper! I've been having the same thoughts as you - walnut is indeed stylish! I have a price list from www.culimar.se (see below). However, I haven't requested any quotes yet, so I have no idea if they are too high or what the quality is like? The solid stave seems to be on the expensive side!!! I've seen other kitchen suppliers where they seem to have approximately the same prices on oak
MathiasS: In this section, we discuss everything related to the materials we build our houses with! Lumber, sheet materials, fasteners, etc. etc.... As a complement to this, we also discuss HOW we use building materials in discussions about construction techniques. Tip: Construction technique questions regarding bathrooms get the best answers in the Bathroom section. Best regards, MathiasS
chris47: I suggest binärolja. It saturates the wood with oil and then forms a lacquer-like surface that is a bit elastic but completely dry. I have used this on both a pine dining table and a teak patio table. Looks great and durable. PS it darkens the wood with each application. Jotun binärolja is available in both matte and clear. If you want a matte surface, you should oil with clear and then finish
chris47: Kirai decking is a reddish-brown dense wood without knots and relatively inexpensive. Interwood in Götet. /CC
Immobil: 8) Here you go: http://www.jackon.no/brosjyrer/Siroc%20Grundelement%20farger%2004.pdf :D More info can be found here: http://www.jackon.se/brosyjrer.htm ;)
Fred: There is a diffusion-open material/plastic that can be used as underlayment instead of solid wood decking and tar paper named Monarperm 900. It is said to be strong, and you can advantageously insulate without an air gap because it is open "on one side." Information can be found on the manufacturer's website www.icopal.se -> Products -> Roofs -> Underlayment. When I Googled, I didn't find
Ms_IT-Nisse: There are gypsum boards that you can put in the joint between the drywall panels. In this way, you at least lock the gypsum against each other. (I think you already did that with the glue... ;)) But I don't know if PL 600 is good enough, ??? PL400 I know works on gypsum.
dymlingen: Inger P: No, of course you don't have sill paper under the foundation wall at a crawl space but on top of, between the concrete and the sill, which the joist and the wall sit on. The experts say there should be a moisture barrier, e.g., foundation paper YEP 2500, which I will follow, but I still wonder how important it is. In some way, they believe that the foundation wall would be more humid
snart_klar: Thank you friends. Now it's finished. It ended up being 22 mm deep recesses in the beam and a standing 22x95 in these.... Still wondering how important it really is. Has anyone tried splicing plasterboard with just cc60 support behind the joints (i.e., without noggings or any other longitudinal board/beam?)
snart_klar: For an extension of about 20 sqm, the price was roughly the same from Beijer, K-Rauta, and Byggmax. We have shopped where it suited best at the time. One day everything in Byggmax's section was crooked, while another day it was impossible to get a single board other than 4.20 at K-Rauta. I think it's like six of one, half a dozen of the other. However, it's always good to check the dimensions of
snuttjulle: The reason for edge-gluing is precisely to prevent warping. I know they used to split wide planks, then rotated them 90 degrees and glued them together in woodwork class many years ago for this very reason. But it's certainly possible to keep them together with strong braces underneath as well. Perhaps even steel to reduce the dimension. Keep in mind that pine is not a hard wood species, so it
Robert_Maria: Thank you for the tip. We have special requests, so I will call to see if they/he can deliver according to our requests. Thank you once again for a quick response.
spikifoten: Hmm, ok. I'll probably try with 600 then. I'm going to lay tiles in the laundry room but in the middle of the room, there's a hatch with pipe connections. The hatch is at the same level as the floor and I need to glue some 'lister' there to have a natural edge against the tiles.
ByggaNytt: [citat] "My" wooden sill is direct orders from the engineer. A funny story is also when I contacted Leca (Maxit) about full joint/string masonry of my U-blocks as the top course. When I described my construction, there was silence on the phone for a moment, then I heard: "The way your foundation is constructed, all should be!"
Don_Tom: [citat] Discuss it with the carpenters beforehand, if possible. Neither you nor they will be happy adjusting this after moving in.
adolfson: We use a construction adhesive at work called PL 400. It adheres to most surfaces.
Jesca_j: Mixing wall thickness is not so unusual. If you need to sala on for the doors, it's not a big concern.
Gusen: When I built my ridge roof with an air gap, I attached hardboard on top of the rafters, then nailed about 3 cm battens on top of the hardboard, and then the roof decking. That means the insulation is against the hardboard on the inside, and the air gap is between the hardboard and the roof decking. A simple and quick solution in my opinion, with minimal cutting in the hardboard. This assumes, of
hempularen: If you look at the Gyproc and Norgips websites, there are quite detailed instructions about dimensions for supporting plasterboard ceilings. The two companies come to slightly different dimensioning conclusions, so it is probably not critical. But the summary is that one should have battens (sparse panel) at cc40 or similar under the main beams. Then there are dimensioning tables for the battens
saidlasf: Hello I won't stick my neck out too much, but: I have built a basement where the exterior walls are 35 cm thick and the blocks weigh Approx. 30 kg each. The guy at the building supply store calculated that just the exterior walls weigh Approx. 27 tons. Then come the interior walls with their (puny) 19 blocks. No lifting help here. Well, actually, when the beams (weighing around 80 kg each) were
OddJ: ...and make sure that the ceiling and the floor are not connected between the rooms. If they are, it is advisable to cut a gap before building the wall.
David: None I want to stand for here. ;) regards David
Langbein: We have a pool underway that was built in treated wood 30 years ago, like a box in the ground with a liner inside. Now they are going to build on the neighboring property and much more quite close, we and the nearest have clay bottom which goes towards the others. What could happen to the pool :-/ ???
Svedalahem: If you look at the issue from a legal perspective and what payment responsibility you have, this might help you. If you entered into an agreement (written is best, verbal can still work) after the new year, the new Consumer Services Act applies. The burden of proof for what has been agreed between you both lies entirely on the contractor. If it is only a verbal agreement, your word in a potential
danielvestling: Whichever primer you use, it is IMPORTANT that primer/fix/sealant comes from the same supplier. It's worth mentioning this once again. After all, you are working with chemicals and they need to work together. So, you can't just buy the cheapest here and the cheapest there. Keep that in mind //Daniel