attaching partition walls to a slab with underfloor heating?

[tiina]

Hello,

I haven't found help for my questions anywhere so far... I need to know how to attach the partition walls to a slab with waterborne underfloor heating. There is about 2-5 cm of concrete above the floor loops, but I probably don't want to risk anything by starting to nail/screw, or what do you say...? What do you need under the baseboard? syllpapp or age-resistant? Is the same thing true for wet areas where no age-resistant should be placed on the walls either?

Best regards, Tiina

 

[kvistarn]

limma is my suggestion, I don't think sealing is needed under an interior wall.

 

[ByggaNytt]

Use metal rails so you can drill/plug/screw just a few centimeters into the concrete! For the wall studs, you can then choose whether you want metal/wood.

 

[tiina]

Thank you so much for the help,

I will now immediately investigate this thing with plåtskenor... It sounds good.

Best regards/Tiina

 

[Peter776]

Use 60 mm nail spikes so you don't have to worry. This is sufficient as you are also attaching standing studs to the ceiling and later drywalling!

 

[MathiasS]

60mm nails if you don't know where the pipes are? No thanks.

If I were installing partition walls without exact knowledge of the pipes' position, I would use glue. With the right adhesive, it holds like a rock.

 

[Mats]

I would also glue the whole thing with PL400 or similar. If you really want to seal the sides, leave a 1 cm gap at the bottom of the gypsum/chipboard and fill it with foam sealant.

 

[Peter776]

If you use 60mm nail for floor joist in wood that is 45mm, there is no problem, many of the assembly carpenters do it, it only goes 15mm into the slab. It also stays in place immediately. Gluing works too, but it has drying time. Optional as mentioned...

 

[MathiasS]

If you use 60mm framing nails for a 45 mm floor joist in wood, there are no problems, many of the installation carpenters do that, it only goes 15 mm into the slab. Then it also stays put right away. Gluing works too, but it has drying time. Optional as mentioned...

Yes, you just have to hope that the pipe hasn't accidentally ended up higher right where it's being nailed. If you avoid living in the mess during renovation and are financially uninvolved, it's of course not unreasonable to take some chances.

The pipe shouldn't be in the way, but quite often things are not as they should be...

 

[ByggaNytt]

It is among other things for that reason that the hose should be placed UNDER the reinforcement mesh....
It doesn't hurt to have well-documented pictures of the installation

 

[Peter776]

OK, I give in! But it is still very nice with the kantbalkarna that are now insulated, think about the cold draft you avoid!!

 

[MathiasS]

OK OK, I give in! But it is still very nice with the edge beams that are now insulated, think about the draft you avoid!!

Ok, that's nice so we don't have to argue about this anymore....