I need to remove about 1 sqm of tiles in a shower corner (the slope is incorrect) and I'm considering what tools to use for the job...
Some type of router would be ideal to ensure the waterproof membrane isn't damaged.!
Suggestions?
Some type of router would be ideal to ensure the waterproof membrane isn't damaged.!
Suggestions?
Sure, but it must be possible with some kind of milling machine or similar..
Then you could "strip" the tiles until there's only a millimeter or so left to the adhesive - which is on top of the waterproof layer..
I've seen those floor milling machines that look like a floor sander, but such a large one would be cumbersome for just 1 sqm.
Then you could "strip" the tiles until there's only a millimeter or so left to the adhesive - which is on top of the waterproof layer..
I've seen those floor milling machines that look like a floor sander, but such a large one would be cumbersome for just 1 sqm.
But the planer will take off the waterproofing layer as well, right?ByggPutte said:
Is there a possibility, or if it doesn't look goofy, to use filler on the existing surface and lay new material in the seam so you can always build up a "ridge" if you want to avoid demolishing the waterproofing, etc.? But you have to set the bar where you want it, though.
I was thinking of something that looks like this..
http://www.bfast.se/pdf/slipkopp.pdf
The idea was that I would take a little at a time until you see the fix..
http://www.bfast.se/pdf/slipkopp.pdf
The idea was that I would take a little at a time until you see the fix..
Hello!
When I removed tiles in my previous bathroom, the waterproofing layer adhered much better to the tile adhesive than to the wall. It was impossible to remove them without damaging the waterproofing layer.
/pinebar
When I removed tiles in my previous bathroom, the waterproofing layer adhered much better to the tile adhesive than to the wall. It was impossible to remove them without damaging the waterproofing layer.
/pinebar
But I mean, I shouldn't be breaking/drilling/chiseling away the tiles in that case, but rather grinding/milling them away..
I don't understand why I would risk damaging the moisture barrier - which is under the adhesive..
No one who has done it like that..?!
I don't understand why I would risk damaging the moisture barrier - which is under the adhesive..
No one who has done it like that..?!
I think it's difficult to achieve such precision when milling or grinding away tiles and adhesive. And it can be hard to see if the waterproofing has been damaged. I know that at work it has happened that the heating coil broke and then they removed individual tiles. But that was before they had set properly.
Best regards, Putte
Best regards, Putte
If the slope is wrong, then the slope of the waterproofing is certainly wrong as well, which means that if you want to do it right, you should remove the floor, adjust the slope, and then reapply the waterproofing. The most important aspect of a bathroom construction is that the waterproofing is sloped because neither tiles nor grout are waterproof.
Floor heating does help somewhat, but there is a reason why a slope is necessary.
I don't think it's possible to mill/grind down the tiles. If you start doing that, I think you will eventually loosen/break tiles, which will certainly damage the waterproofing.
My final recommendation is to turn to a professional who knows how it works.
Floor heating does help somewhat, but there is a reason why a slope is necessary.
I don't think it's possible to mill/grind down the tiles. If you start doing that, I think you will eventually loosen/break tiles, which will certainly damage the waterproofing.
My final recommendation is to turn to a professional who knows how it works.
I was probably a bit unclear in the first post - the slope isn't wrong, but it slopes poorly, causing the water to run out over the floor when you shower and then sloooowly back to the drain. This is what's supposed to be fixed by tidying up the shower corner itself.
Despite all the good advice, I think I'll go with one of those grinders I linked to in a previous post. My cousin is a tiler, and according to him, they sometimes use one of those grinding cups.
It's possible that it has such a strong drive that it becomes difficult with precision, but I think it should go well. Furthermore, I won't be milling away the actual adhesive, but only the tile itself since new ones are supposed to be laid on top of the old ones later on.
Despite all the good advice, I think I'll go with one of those grinders I linked to in a previous post. My cousin is a tiler, and according to him, they sometimes use one of those grinding cups.
It's possible that it has such a strong drive that it becomes difficult with precision, but I think it should go well. Furthermore, I won't be milling away the actual adhesive, but only the tile itself since new ones are supposed to be laid on top of the old ones later on.
