Building Materials and Construction Technology
trocomare: Buy steel tracks and place them at the bottom. Then you can frame the wall as usual... It's the wood contact with the damp slab that's the concern. Lift the drywall 3-4 mm from the floor to be safe there as well.
zniff: I'm about to start working on the staircase where I plan to have wallpaper and wainscoting. The staircase will also be sanded. Now, I'm unsure how to go about the actual paneling. A horizontal one I can nail up (directly onto the wood wall behind), but in this case, it's a staircase that also has a frame/beam/molding that doesn't follow the same slope all the way (arched). This can't be removed,
aydaludn: Hello Tilt! I also want to set up such a wall, have you found a budget-friendly option? Can you give me some tips? Best regards, Ayda
Moelk: I stood with the saw in my hand but changed my mind. I'll leave the beam as it is and cover it with 6mm plasterboard and moisture barrier, then paint or tile it instead. It's foolish to take chances.
Mikael_L: By the way, a good initiative for a slightly more "hands-on" thread. So there's less talk and more action, so to speak. ;) If I understood correctly, it was an existing opening you were dissatisfied with/concerned about the deflection which you have addressed. You seem satisfied anyway, I must congratulate you on the completed project. ::)
patrikz: Planning to start the project of creating a door in the heart wall of the basement in the coming days. How should I proceed? Planning to rent a diamond saw to cut out for the door and the supporting beam. I will use supports on each side of the door opening before I start cutting. The beam should rest about a decimeter into the wall on each side. So if the frame is 90 cm, I thought the beam could
Badkarl: I'm going to install ceiling plasterboard in my bathroom. It's a small sloped ceiling (2.2m*1.8m) with a skylight in the middle. I was planning to fill the joints and paint with wet room paint, but I'm worried that it will be difficult to get it completely smooth. Should I solve it in another way, such as with fabric? How do I best fix the corners between the plasterboard in the window recesses
Snurre: Instead, try threading out the bolt, insert it just enough so that it rests against the threads, and hit the head of the bolt with a hammer. The nut should then move in a bit, thereby reducing the tension on the expansion part. Then thread the bolt back in a little bit and pull out the entire package with a polygrip wrench. This has worked for me before, at least.
arny: You only have one chance to get the joint neat when you smooth it with a moistened finger (water + detergent). You can't apply more before the joint has dried, but if the joint is dry and clean (wash with alcohol), new joint compound will adhere on top.
JonasHolm: Hi Mathias Thanks for the tip about the program... I will try it. It's not that long. About 1800mm long window section that needs to be replaced. It was easier with the replacement for the other window section as it was in the gable of the house which is not loaded by roof trusses... /Jonas
M@ZE: Then I probably know what to do, I'll skip gluing the gips since it will only have parquet on top anyway. I promise to measure carefully and mark out the slingorna :)
Mats: Real thorsman were at least the last time I worked with them completely sealed on three sides. They were attached just as mentioned with special brackets on the backside.
Kemi: The one they used in Roomservice is called "Wiggleboard" in American English, similar flexible plywood can be found on this English site: http://www.clarkswood.com/stagflex.htm Apparently, they have some kind of glue in the boards that allows them to be shaped in any way and then harden. Is this not available in Sweden yet? It would have been very, very interesting!
Mats: Amen to that. The parental home had paneled ceilings, and there you could see the light from the room next door through the "panel grooves" when it was dark.
zingo: Have you considered what might be under existing boards or paneling? If the house is that old, there may be one or two layers of other material inside. In our cottage, all the ceilings were flat when we bought it, but we tore down the dull flat boards from the 50s and underneath were wonderful ceiling planks.
fat_dady: Maybe do the walls after the floor to avoid sanding dust on brick and wallpaper?
ByggPutte: They say the joint becomes stronger than the rest of the rule. If it was a good price, I would have bought. Best regards, Putte
Kasch: Okay sounds good. No, there is no problem with the chimney - the stove is located by the old masonry where I currently have a cast iron stove. The only addition is a small bend in the stovepipe.
saturnus: probably it's the previous owner's room for the kitties you're rummaging around in :-[ maybe it's not so easy being a cat, and not making it out in time ;D But sure, it lingers, the smell of cat piss, ugh yuck. Otherwise, certain insulation can also smell like piss.
yens: I'm considering buying a concrete house where I would like to open up between two rooms. The structure in question is approximately 10x6 meters and as far as I can see, the concrete slab is 12 cm. Can I move the interior walls as I wish (they are not load-bearing as far as I can see from the construction drawings), or do they have any load-bearing function? I understand it might be difficult to
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=43261/0]General heating[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
hans: Hey... an idea for the last image is to place a whole 2"4" along the entire railing underneath. This "support" can be screwed into the posts, and the top rail is attached from underneath. You get a "surface interface" against the side of the post which is 4" 4" (top rail + support) in that area you could probably attach a regular galvanized angle bracket completely hidden. Otherwise, this method
hans: If the board doesn't need a "ytfininch" (difficult word), you can screw it onto another piece of chipboard and then saw through both. This will probably (not entirely 100) prevent the cut from slipping sideways regardless of the tool used. Best regards, Hans O
MakeoverMicke: Hmm, maybe I need to rethink... There should be a waterproofing membrane since there is a floor drain. It almost has to be noggins because double drywall builds even more. ...and that's the problem. Is new insulation more effective than old? Should one take the opportunity to replace it?
ByggPutte: Ok Watch Out for expanding foam good for many things but not good for health. Regards Putte
stigrp: We are going to replace all the electricity in our 1920s house and have promised the electrician to prepare as much as we can, i.e., tear out the wiring. As we started removing the surface-mounted wiring by the windows in the living room, a lot of plaster came off. It turns out they placed the wiring under the wallpaper, which lies directly on the exterior wall (plaster). Is it possible to just
Valbobygge: Metal studs c/c 40 (I think the standard says c/c 60 but it costs so little to make it sturdier) Double 13 mm gypsum boards with staggered joints If you have incoming ground moisture from the floor or wall, I would recommend building with Leca. Moisture barrier in the shower area. No moisture barrier elsewhere. The ground moisture must be able to escape.
s60: Ecophon has wall panels...Check them out, I would go for those if you're just looking for a good sound absorber... Ceiling installer for 11 years ;) [citat]
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=thread_deleted7/0]Roof & attic[/link] [move by] MathiasS.