Building Materials and Construction Technology
Martin_L: Try once more a few cm beside, then try not to use too much force until you feel it starting to become properly stiff. It requires a bit of practice. After all, they carry about 50 kg each if you mount them correctly. Take a chance and win, he he.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=31486/0]Roof & attic[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
ByggPutte: Sure, you can get it steady. But if the house is from the '30s, maybe wood is a more suitable choice. Best regards, Putte
NiclasR: If you look at the top of the page when you are in the forum, in the header, it will hopefully say in the gray/green field something like; "Hello, SJODR, you have 1 message." Just click on the "1 message" text to be able to read the message.
ribo500: Building mountain cabins. How should one attach the timber panel most attractively? Preferably, I don't want visible nail heads. Applies both outside and inside. Someone said it must be NAILED on the outside (some building norm), that can't be possible?
Tobbefonsterfixare: I can add that my father furnished the attic sometime around 90-92, and one of the gable ends was torn down, and the asfaboard is still there today... the late old man still hasn't put on any panel! and it works... it looks a bit weathered... but it's intact and all... so leaving the asfaboard "open" over a winter shouldn't be a problem!
Tobbefonsterfixare: [citat] I agree with the guy above! Plyfa definitely the best! But OSB works well! (gloves are recommended)
Bidda: Found one in Gothenburg advertising in Norway: http://www.finn.no/finn/bap/object?finnkode=8846172&sid=10awMjPDYQ704063&pos=1&tot=2
Toobster: The wall that will be visible should be tiled.. possibly about 5 cm of the lower part of the upper panels will be tiled, the rest is now mosaic where tiles were previously placed.
Staffan1: Well, I finally managed to hit, but missed a couple of times. Since the room being built is soundproof, there is double gypsum with damping adhesive between the layers. Additionally, they are staggered so the seams don't align in the same place, and at the top and bottom they are also at slightly different heights. For example, the innermost gypsum board stands on a damping mat and the outer one
Snailman: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=40517
Mikael_L: Feel free to try cutting with your hacksaw, but securing the workpiece properly is almost a requirement if you want good results. No matter what you cut with. Buy a new blade if it's bad, and feel free to ask for a fine-toothed one (more teeth/inch). Not absolutely necessary, but it can improve precision. A deburring file is just a fine-cut metal file, at least in my world. But maybe I'm confused
bebben: Look at the picture in the link below to get the answer! http://www.glasbetong.se/
Tornhill: If you can consider oak flooring instead of pine, you apply ammonia to your untreated oak floor. The ammonia reacts with the tannic acid in the oak and the result is a black surface. A little ammonia gives a dark "antique" surface, more ammonia = blacker surface.. / Fredrik
Tornhill: You were smarter than me :( We ordered an HEA 240 weighing about 440kg, which needed to go up to 285cm at the top. Twelve of us lifted it and placed it on supports we had built along the way. It took five hours, four family-sized pizzas, and an endless number of sodas and swear words before it was in place. But it looks good now :) / Fredrik
styrman1: MDF is the only thing that doesn't warp and is somewhat durable.
Tornhill: It's probably easier, and not much more expensive, to buy a 100x100 beam and saw it to 55x55. You avoid the glue joint then. / Fredrik
spocks_beard: Hello There's a Dane, I think his name is Fleming (like all other Danes? :) ) He was featured in 2 magazines from Gör Så Här (nowadays Gör Det Själv). He built a house with trusses and an upper floor of steel beams, if I remember correctly. Everything was on a concrete slab. I think you can check with GDS to see if you can order the magazine: www.gds.se Jocke
ByggPutte: If you want to remove it, you can just cut it off level with the tile. Regards, Putte
Odjuret: Okay! Thanks! then I'll try that! Approximately how long were the screws you used?
Bricky: It's fine to polish and then tile, just make sure to waterproof before you tile. :)
JohanKson: Hi! Hope this falls into the right category. We're considering expanding the kitchen a bit. The problem is that we have to move a load-bearing wall of about 5 meters. The upper floor consists of cassettes (element house standard) resting on the current wall. The cassettes meet each other on top of the load-bearing wall from each outer wall. We're moving the wall about 1.2 meters, which means it
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=50137/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
aneh: Anyone know how/where to get aluminum shutter doors in custom sizes? Ikea has something similar for one of their kitchen cabinets (link attached), but I want it as a door over a built-in fuse box. http://www.ikea.com/PIAimages/32689_PE122706_S3.jpg Does anyone know where I can get such doors??
Totte_C: Perhaps there is a difference between condensation and "disktrase-fuktig" insulation? ;)
slipperman: Hello We are renovating a small warehouse building and will be insulating the roof. Currently, there are standard roof trusses (well, as standardized as they were in 1927) and I will be installing a light beam construction (masonite + 45x45 timber) to create a space for insulation (of course with about a 30 mm air gap closest to the outer roof). There is a desire in the household to replace the
lastkaj: Replacing windows is not particularly difficult with the right tools. It takes a little longer since you have to drill into brick instead of wood, but that's all. In the 50s to 70s, many strange foundations were built that today people just shake their heads at. I think that one of those is exactly what you are describing. However, I think you should consider this way: What problems have arisen