Building Materials and Construction Technology
mangz: The hope is that it will also become a "semi-floating" floor, making it as light as possible, if I find a simple solution. That is, just trying to get the floor separated from the wall. No casting here :) But do you mean that it could be detrimental instead of helping the construction if you just do and don't think?
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=31483/0]Roof & attic[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Ventoris: Hello everyone! Does anyone know the price difference per cubic for Makdrain and regular gravel? :-?
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=31487/0]Roof & attic[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
TorpAnders: [citat] Ok, a lot of technical jargon for a layman... all my joints are directly above a footing or pillar :-/ So, it's not as critical in that case? (relatively speaking) The field moment I'll find in my electrical theory ;)
Mikael_L: As previously mentioned, tiling directly on the concrete without a moisture barrier, gypsum, or anything else is probably a fairly safe approach. However, there is a risk of having really cold floors.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=59102/0]Biobränsle[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Skon_Jolmen: Truss.. Now, the thing is there's an upper floor above. It's not called a truss then, right? :) I'm a bit of a novice, I know. :) Anyway, due to a moisture damage, I pulled up the floor in one spot on the upper floor, and now I've peeked under the floorboards, and there is a thick wooden beam (is this called a bjälklag? what you call a truss, right?) going from one long side to the other, and
snabela: Thank you to everyone contributing to this "mess". It's leaning towards tearing away the top layer, provided the top layer is not reinforced. Then applying tar paper and casting a new top layer with strong reinforcement for safety's sake and the right slope. The middle support is apparently out of the picture thanks to the added structural strength expertise.
BosseHansson: Hey Mike. I would probably prefer aiming for countertops which should look nicer than plywood; cheapy has beech 26mm for 800:- per sheet, which should be enough for 6 steps. But it really depends on what budget you've set for it. What were you thinking for stringers, using existing ones or constructing new ones?
Martin_L: The material in the fix that causes it to harden disappears over time from the mixture, which means that the speed of the hardening process can deteriorate over time.
ByggPutte: Check out gyproc. Ordered 2 handbooks. Best regards, Putte
Toobster: Might as well update a little. :) Today I removed the beam! (fanfare sounds in the background) It all started when I drilled a 70 mm hole in the floor on the upper level to inspect the beam. The beam is an H-beam measuring 160x160mm and appears to be around 10 mm thick. (+- a few mm.) The span it covers is 290 cm. Can anyone do a quick calculation on what this should/can support? It would be
hempularen: A cheap hacksaw for 30 kronor at Jula or a similar place works well. But as I said, throw away the saw afterward, because it likely won't cut wood after a few strokes in the aerated concrete.
monikaw: Suspected that was what you were after :D Fun to be able to help!
Peter_K: I live in Huddinge, so that works well. My neighbor at home made holes in the foundation wall and inserted the beam/beams from the outside. I don't know how to make neat holes in a foundation wall from 1929 since it seems to be made of stone that was plastered in the 60s. I don't think there is any major risk of the floor collapsing, but it doesn't feel good with the wobbling. I have a steel beam
Eld: Creosote contains arsenic, right? Not so healthy...
swecul: nah, the idea is already abandoned... it would be way too cumbersome! thanks anyway for all the answers! :D
Fehnik: hmm... 10mm floor gypsum... need to check out the gypsum manufacturers' websites and see what I can find...
ByggPutte: Then it probably doesn't matter. Best regards, Putte
snabela: It worked out nicely by mounting 2 bolts (12mm thick) at each edge of the existing overlap ("omlott"). Really satisfying feeling to remove the old beam when the new sturdier one was put in place...
edtmaby: Does anyone know of a building supply store that sells oak dowels online or can ship the order? I live in Sundsvall and none of the construction companies here have or can order them in, and I haven't found any company that delivers outside Stockholm either.
zankan: The big question.... Is the existing roof designed to support an additional ceiling? Sheet metal studs 45 cost around 17 bucks per meter somewhere and secondary profiles for drop ceilings in the same vicinity... Where can they be found in Gothenburg? Probably, sheet metal studs grow at the building supply store :-) Personally, I would use secondary profiles in double layers, but that's just me...
Tegheim: Anyone who can recommend a website or site where I can check out tiles for a large construction project? I was thinking of going to Germany to shop considering the prices...
Roggsson: I have a tip on a book that covers everything about building ecologically. It addresses how to build healthy homes to live in, regarding material selection, construction methods, electricity, heating, moisture, sound, etc. How to conserve resources: heat and cooling, electricity, clean water, and waste. How to close cycles and how to adapt to the place you want to build on. It's beautifully
Eld: In public places, it should be at least 110cm high and not "climbable" (i.e., no horizontal bars). At home, you can probably(?) have it as low as 90cm high. 110cm can create odd proportions, and the stair gates available for sale are, moreover, not even 90cm high. Make the railing/fence so that you can attach a stair gate in an aesthetically pleasing way and so that you can remove the gate when
MathiasS: [citat] sqrt(40x40+40x40)= sqrt(2x40x40)= 40xsqrt(2)=~ 40x1.41 Yep, that's what I said! 8-)