Currently building a small semi-insulated room for music. There are double layers of drywall on the walls with damping glue in between. Now I'm going to put up fabric with glass wool behind it, and I plan to attach the fabric to battens that I'll place along the wall. One at the bottom, one in the middle, and one at the top.

But what should I use to attach the battens to the double drywall? Should I use drywall expanders for this? Or is there something better to choose?

I'm a real beginner, so all tips, advice, and warnings are welcome.
 
Personally, I would have tried using a regular wood screw that is long enough to reach in and attach to your studs or battens that you've attached the drywall to.

It goes significantly faster and becomes considerably stronger than using plugs for the battens.
 
Sounds convenient, then I have to try to find where the studs are located.
I tried using a metal/tension/wood detector that I bought at Clas Ohlson, but it didn't work as I expected.
Even though I set the studs with cc 60, it's sometimes hard to hit the right spot when the studs are only 45 wide.
I suppose I should have been more precise when I put up the studs and tried to keep exact track of where they ended up.

Or is there a good trick to find them even now? Or is it test-drill-and-hope-they-hold that's required in such a situation?
 
Now I only have experience with single plasterboard walls, so I don't know how it works on double plasterboard walls.

I usually try to measure where the studs should be, and then you lightly tap over the wall, and you can usually "listen" to where the studs are (there's a more solid sound where the stud is).
Sometimes you can look at the bottom by the floor or at the very top by the ceiling to see where the seams on the boards are, and that's where the studs should be.
 
45 mm is quite a lot to hit, I think.

The knock method also works on double gypsum.
 
Well, I finally managed to hit, but missed a couple of times. Since the room being built is soundproof, there is double gypsum with damping adhesive between the layers. Additionally, they are staggered so the seams don't align in the same place, and at the top and bottom they are also at slightly different heights. For example, the innermost gypsum board stands on a damping mat and the outer one then covers it.

So, knocking doesn't work very well. In any case, it shouldn't work because the whole wall is so insulated with damping adhesive, etc., so there are soft knocks over the entire surface now.

But, as I said, I finally managed it, and when the next room is built, I'll be more careful to get the studs perfectly straight to be able to calculate where the screws should go.

Now it's just the interior and the finish on the walls and ceiling left.
 
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