Hello!
Bathroom, wooden house, second floor.
I was thinking of trying concrete floors there.
Assuming I have the correct cc-measurements and the right floor plywood thickness, and the floor heating loop is embedded as thinly as possible.
Can I then lay a thin (how thin? 5-10mm?) layer of fine concrete, vibrate it thoroughly, let it cure for a while, then sand it, and finish it.
Will it work?
I won't be using tiles.
> 5-10mm concrete shouldn't weigh more than adhesive + tiles & grout?
> Is 5-10mm the wrong thickness?
> How thick is the concrete skin in fine concrete?
> Will the floor heating in the leveling compound heat my concrete floor sufficiently?
> Should I reinforce with, for example, chicken wire or some rendering mesh?
> What kind of troubles could occur?
I want a discussion, tips, and ideas.
Bathroom, wooden house, second floor.
I was thinking of trying concrete floors there.
Assuming I have the correct cc-measurements and the right floor plywood thickness, and the floor heating loop is embedded as thinly as possible.
Can I then lay a thin (how thin? 5-10mm?) layer of fine concrete, vibrate it thoroughly, let it cure for a while, then sand it, and finish it.
Will it work?
I won't be using tiles.
> 5-10mm concrete shouldn't weigh more than adhesive + tiles & grout?
> Is 5-10mm the wrong thickness?
> How thick is the concrete skin in fine concrete?
> Will the floor heating in the leveling compound heat my concrete floor sufficiently?
> Should I reinforce with, for example, chicken wire or some rendering mesh?
> What kind of troubles could occur?
I want a discussion, tips, and ideas.
If you want a silent and good bathroom floor, glue floor gypsum to the chipboard across the grain direction of the chipboard. Use S48, an Ardex product, for gluing. Apply it with a notched trowel on primed chipboard, then just press the floor gypsum into the adhesive, done—no screws needed. I wouldn't use concrete, inflexible and difficult to work with in such thin layers. Use Ardex K70 self-leveling compound or A45 construction filler instead. Visit Ardex's website for descriptions before you start, good luck Johnnyz carpenter 
But he wants the concrete as the surface. That should work, but you probably need fiber-reinforced concrete in such thin layers. Then you must have a moisture barrier underneath, of course. The load-bearing capacity is probably not a problem because, as you said, concrete doesn't weigh more than tiles.
Maybe it will be safer if you take a slightly thicker layer of concrete? To minimize the risk of cracking, I mean.
Talk to a concrete pro! Good luck, it will look nice...
Maybe it will be safer if you take a slightly thicker layer of concrete? To minimize the risk of cracking, I mean.
Talk to a concrete pro! Good luck, it will look nice...