Building Materials and Construction Technology
Åttioettan: [citat] We will probably try option no. 1, the windows are far too low (and inward-opening) for option 2 to be feasible. Just need to find the best way to fit 60 + 10 cm into only 64.5 cm space.
Mikael_L: Under windows is a typical place for leakage in old houses, resulting in rotten wood and mold. Previous owners might have discovered the problems and fixed the leak anyway, but not replaced what was rotted, hence why it's dry now. I'm not saying that this is the case now, it could be an explanation.
Larsa: I am installing a 15x33 or 15x44 planed strip as a ceiling molding since the ceiling slopes a lot. Miter it against the angled wall and feel free to mill a profile into it for a great-looking finish.
Patte: A bit of a late response perhaps, but we installed the floor without cutting the stairs and it turned out great. Hope it went well for you.
matsmats: Good tips regarding the impact of the substrate. I have a vertical plank wall and had planned to throw up rotgips before the beadboard to "dampen" and even out the wall! The plank walls in an old house are rarely close to right angles....the plank walls are also tongue and grooved, which often leads to walls being occasionally concave or convex in both height and length!! Could it be a problem
jon_h: [citat] You can do as you like. If the cabinets are already in place, one usually stops at going under the toe kick. If the kitchen is ripped out, it might be sensible to lay all the way in, or at least lay something else that creates some height and ensures that any leaking water runs out onto the floor where it can be seen, instead of staying under the cabinets.
olni65: I remember they tested this in Gör Så Här back in the day. It can be found in issue 12 from 2001. Contact me via PM and email address, and I can email the article in PDF format.
Beppo: Do you need a vapor barrier at all? You probably have an air gap between the brick and the insulation. Plus, the air is not as humid in a garage as in a residential house. Besides, the brick doesn't mold anyway. I would guess you can do exactly as you described yourself. Put up the studs and add a bit more insulation, then onto OSB + drywall.
Wester: Now that Pake mentioned it, we actually got the OK because we had a long distance from the pipes to the wall. Our murstock is big (6 x 1.2) meters, so it was completely fine to have wood against the murstock since the pipes went far into them in these cases.
Lilienberg: Lux even has special "rörbeklädnader" LUX ELEMENTS®- TEC - Universally applicable cladding elements
mattiasp: I believe that the Luna catalog still exists in paper format. Around 1200 pages? Most of it is there.
smil: It is probably attached with two screws in each vangstycke into the wall (look under the steps, they usually hide them there) and two screws under the top step, then into the arch edge. A staircase is almost self-supporting.
jv12: Hello, I am currently building with Dorotherm. I am a self-builder and have no previous experience, but it's working fairly well so far. I haven't checked and compared with similar systems that you linked to, I stuck to "cube" variants filled with concrete. You probably don't need to worry about it blowing away, it's a standard wooden frame except for the styrofoam. Styrofoam, by the way, has the
Kesella: I'm sitting and tinkering a bit and am worried about an upcoming demolition of a load-bearing wall. The house is a rendered wooden house with three floors, and in the basement, I plan to demolish a wall of about 1.80 cm and replace it with an H-beam of about 2.5 meters. Does anyone have experience or any idea of how thick the beam needs to be to support the house? We've found a 14x14 H-beam with
Danne_H: Thank you! I'll immediately sit down and go through that list.. there should be something there:)
jon_h: Whether the floor needs reinforcement is entirely up to you to decide; it depends on whether it gives way when you walk on it. Otherwise, it's fine to insulate as you have planned, but you need an air gap directly inside the paneling and ceiling. It's fine to keep the façade as it is. There are no disadvantages to having uninsulated on the floor below.
lobbysleeper: I would probably recommend buying a ready-made kit. I remember that Bauhaus (in Barkarby at least) also has something similar to what Theofil has. I am personally looking for hidden brackets.
Badger: [citat] Precast. Available from Lindén Villan - Your path to your dream home. The concern would be the transportation and installation. They are heavy pieces.
Fotografen: [citat] I know - but the risk is that you solve one problem and create another. Tiles on the wall won't be damaged by moisture, what I'm afraid of is that the moisture that currently evaporates into the air will migrate into the wooden wall, along with shower moisture, and of course, the shower will be placed next to the outer wall... Otherwise, the solution with plaster + tiles directly on the
P-plats: Got a tip once that if you accidentally hit the wood with a hammer, you can raise it with an iron... ... might work better on newer wood.
svante.a: Thanks for the responses. I'm not particularly worried about problems arising in the crawl space, but I did have a thought regarding the additional insulation done in the late '70s up in the attic (by previous owners). The humidity varies quite a lot more there than in the house itself, especially here on the west coast. They laid a mat on top of the chip insulation, but with a paper-lined one.
P-plats: Where even hardware stores, locksmiths, or building supply stores have...
Mats: There are ready-made wooden bases with milled grooves for pipes. Larger building supply stores should have these in their range.
chris47: Why do you want to do that? Plastered houses are the nicest that exist and require less maintenance than wooden facades with painting, washing, etc... If you're still going to panel the house, I would think the most complicated part would be fixing the windows and doors. You'll need to add new flashing and trim. If the windows end up too far into the wall, you might also want to move them out,