Sawsaw, there are even 230v spots that only need 10-12 cm, and it must also depend on what you have above as well. For example, I am going to lower a solid concrete ceiling and it's likely to be a bit less sensitive than lowering a ceiling filled with sawdust and newspaper...
 
It might be that the lamp breaks often if it gets poor ventilation.

Best regards, Putte
 
ByggPutte said:
It may happen that the bulb
breaks often if it gets poor ventilation.

Best regards, Putte
But the ventilation should also depend on the surrounding space, and since I'm going to use metal and plaster in a concrete ceiling, I don't need any boxes, so if the bulb gets its "own space" of 100x100x12 cm instead of 15x15x15 cm, it should hardly be a disadvantage in terms of ventilation. Or am I thinking completely wrong?
 
yens said:
Sawsaw, there are even 230v spots that only need 10-12 cm, and it also depends on what you have above. For example, I'm going to lower a solid concrete ceiling, which is likely to be a bit less sensitive than lowering a ceiling filled with sawdust and newspaper...
Exactly! Then it’s just the matter of the cables left.
 
Sawsaw said:
Exactly! So, it's just that cable issue left.
yep, how do you suggest we handle that, do we just place heat-resistant cable up there, or should we run conduit pipes between the spots where we plan to have the spotlights? In the manufacturers' sketches, it looks like you're supposed to toss the lamp cord between the spotlights and just let them hang there and dangle...
 
It was not the cables for the spotlights I was thinking about! You wanted to build in ugly cables and you can't do that just like that!
 
Sawsaw said:
It was not the cables for the spotlights I was thinking of! You wanted to build in ugly cables, and you can't do that without further ado!
No, now you are confusing me with the thread creator, I just want to lower the ceiling and install spotlights. I will also run electricity, but then it will be VP pipes, and supervised by my house electrician :)
 
yens said:
no, now you're mixing me up with the thread creator,
Yes, look, I did that! :eek: Apologies if I've confused anyone! :rolleyes:
 
no worries for me, however, please feel free to answer how to handle BETWEEN the spotlights. The manufacturers include a black "lamp cord" that they think you should toss into the dropped ceiling, but that doesn't feel quite right, what's the best way to do it? (Correct...)
 
Sawsaw said:
Yes, look, I did that! :eek: Apologies if I confused anyone! :rolleyes:
I'm the thread creator, and thanks for the concern :-) But I'm doing this together with an electrician, no under-the-table work, Baltic or other shady stuff, so it's absolutely safe. It's also the electrician - very knowledgeable and serious - who gave me the 12 cm measurement, so I trust that.

Another thing, I've now bought the studs, brand Lindab/danogips. But those clips, they cost 350 SEK for 100 pcs, and I only need 20 pcs (2 for each "junction").

The fools at Woodys refused to sell them individually, anyone know where I can get these in consumer packaging?

/Alko
 
yens said:
no problem for me, however, feel free to answer how to handle BETWEEN the spotlights. The manufacturers provide a black "lamp cord" that they suggest you throw into the ceiling, but it doesn't feel right, how do you do it best? (Correct...)
Ok, what is it that you have bought, 12V or 230V? If it's 230V, you generally need to use cable approved for 90-degree operating temperature, and you can't use your "black lamp cord," but RHH or another heat-resistant cable.
Conduit or not? Your toilet was only 1.3 sqm, and I would probably skip the conduit there. However, I would use conduit in the kitchen, which was the next project, right?
 
Alko: I bought my clipps at Silvan, I don't know if bauhaus/hornbach/k-rauta has them.

Sawsaw: I haven't bought spots yet, but my electrician recommends 230, so that's probably what I'll go for. The pipes in the kitchen can be good if only because it's convenient to know exactly how the cables run. Thanks for the good tips.
 
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