Hello.
We have just bought a house, and in the upcoming renovations, we've encountered a few things that need to be discussed. We are about to close up a hole in the load-bearing heart wall, approximately 2.5 m wide. A 220x45 beam has been placed over the opening, at one end of the wall's thickness (see pictures), which I assume is meant to support the upper floor. The problem for us is that it's a bit low, and now that we plan to put a wall there, it becomes a bit troublesome regarding the door that needs to be installed.
So my question is:
Is it load-bearing? I assume it is intended to be, but at the same time, with the enthusiasm of an amateur, I think it's poorly positioned on the base. What's visible in picture 77, beside the beam, is the 15 cm Leca that's in the middle of the wall. The beam itself is just resting on the plaster outside the wall. Additionally, it's somewhat propped up on the other side with chip bits that were probably left over.
Would it be possible to replace it with 2 pieces of 45x45 beams standing on approximately 10 cm (to run electrical and heating conduits through) that stand on 145x45 beams down to the floor. This instead of drilling lots of holes through the entire standing beam, or would this result in less strength than a perforated 145x45? Above this hole, there is only an open floor space, so the wall doesn't continue upward in the house, meaning it only needs to support the weight of the floor.
Or should we just ignore everything and build around the beam and get 180-190 doors instead, to avoid touching it? Then you also have the advantage of not needing to have the plumber extend the heating pipe from the boiler, and I can build the wall myself without having the carpenter over.
Pictures:
http://www.wot.se/~mattias/bilder/142CANON/IMG_4271.JPG behind the beam, some electrical conduit, and the heating pipe from the boiler.
http://www.wot.se/~mattias/bilder/142CANON/IMG_4272.JPG
http://www.wot.se/~mattias/bilder/142CANON/IMG_4273.JPG end with central vacuum
http://www.wot.se/~mattias/bilder/142CANON/IMG_4274.JPG end towards the boiler
http://www.wot.se/~mattias/bilder/142CANON/IMG_4275.JPG the base on the boiler end
http://www.wot.se/~mattias/bilder/142CANON/IMG_4276.JPG the base, central-vac end
http://www.wot.se/~mattias/bilder/142CANON/IMG_4277.JPG inside the base, c-v end
Is there anything else I should perhaps consider? For example, the heating pipe, how it should be run inside the wall (i.e., not without an inspection hatch right now, right?) regarding the heat?
We have just bought a house, and in the upcoming renovations, we've encountered a few things that need to be discussed. We are about to close up a hole in the load-bearing heart wall, approximately 2.5 m wide. A 220x45 beam has been placed over the opening, at one end of the wall's thickness (see pictures), which I assume is meant to support the upper floor. The problem for us is that it's a bit low, and now that we plan to put a wall there, it becomes a bit troublesome regarding the door that needs to be installed.
So my question is:
Is it load-bearing? I assume it is intended to be, but at the same time, with the enthusiasm of an amateur, I think it's poorly positioned on the base. What's visible in picture 77, beside the beam, is the 15 cm Leca that's in the middle of the wall. The beam itself is just resting on the plaster outside the wall. Additionally, it's somewhat propped up on the other side with chip bits that were probably left over.
Would it be possible to replace it with 2 pieces of 45x45 beams standing on approximately 10 cm (to run electrical and heating conduits through) that stand on 145x45 beams down to the floor. This instead of drilling lots of holes through the entire standing beam, or would this result in less strength than a perforated 145x45? Above this hole, there is only an open floor space, so the wall doesn't continue upward in the house, meaning it only needs to support the weight of the floor.
Or should we just ignore everything and build around the beam and get 180-190 doors instead, to avoid touching it? Then you also have the advantage of not needing to have the plumber extend the heating pipe from the boiler, and I can build the wall myself without having the carpenter over.
Pictures:
http://www.wot.se/~mattias/bilder/142CANON/IMG_4271.JPG behind the beam, some electrical conduit, and the heating pipe from the boiler.
http://www.wot.se/~mattias/bilder/142CANON/IMG_4272.JPG
http://www.wot.se/~mattias/bilder/142CANON/IMG_4273.JPG end with central vacuum
http://www.wot.se/~mattias/bilder/142CANON/IMG_4274.JPG end towards the boiler
http://www.wot.se/~mattias/bilder/142CANON/IMG_4275.JPG the base on the boiler end
http://www.wot.se/~mattias/bilder/142CANON/IMG_4276.JPG the base, central-vac end
http://www.wot.se/~mattias/bilder/142CANON/IMG_4277.JPG inside the base, c-v end
Is there anything else I should perhaps consider? For example, the heating pipe, how it should be run inside the wall (i.e., not without an inspection hatch right now, right?) regarding the heat?
Looks like it's load-bearing.
Can't you just simply frame the new wall with, for example, 95x45 standing, including on each side of the door, against the existing beam? Then you can cut a notch in the beam, as much as needed to fit the door.
Can't you just simply frame the new wall with, for example, 95x45 standing, including on each side of the door, against the existing beam? Then you can cut a notch in the beam, as much as needed to fit the door.
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