Building Materials and Construction Technology
Dr.SiC: Exactly, open to the ridge is a big plus :) But the main advantage would be that I can have the same roof over the whole house even though it's on two levels.
Milkshaken: Well, Molly is also available for that purpose.... Keeps most things in place...... :) A steel rule is thin so it doesn't affect the material thickness.,..
ipppe: [citat] Can anyone recommend such a product? Or would a regular varnish work, for example? The glossy surface would give a nice appearance.... Regards
yens: ok, good input, thanks for that, however, I don't know if I have the opportunity to build with anything other than a flat roof, because I want to expand in a natural way and everyone in the entire area has garages/storage with flat roofs. But on the other hand, they seem to allow just about anything here, people have built landed spaceships :) What do you recommend as the minimum pitch for a roof
Norell: Forget about the pipe and use an 8mm installation drill that is 60cm long; you can bend/tension it while you drill so you end up in a straight line with the ceiling, otherwise it would probably be a Festool screwdriver C 12 with eccentric or angle attachment, of course...
Fasting65: There is moisture-resistant particleboard (and mdf?) that is used to make bathroom furniture. As far as I know, it is green in color... i.e., the particles are slightly green-tinted, somewhat like pressure-treated wood....sort of.
ByggaNytt: However, there is no age-resistant tape with age-resistant ADHESIVE, so also complement with a string of construction silicone! You can never get the plastic through the joists, so you'll have to staple/tape between the beams as best as you can. I didn't care about this at all down to the lower floor - but I have a basement down there, so the plastic still ends at ground level!
Funkishus_-36: Qualified nonsense!!!! If we continue to entertain the idea that the wall thickness is the same, t=5mm, we get the following results. I=inertia, in order to talk about bending resistance, we need to know the elementary case, i.e., how the beam is supported. In this discussion, it's irrelevant as it is enough to look at the inertia to compare the two options. Square tube 150x50mm => I=466cm4,
zachris: Yes, even though it is glass, snow will probably be able to stick to the roof, so you are absolutely right. Actually, I was looking for a seriously over-dimensioned attachment so that you don't even have to worry about snow and the like.
Pysslarn: If I were you, I would save money and consoles. You write that the closet is (very) cramped, screw up moldings on the sides so that the shelves' ends can rest on them instead. Much easier than fiddling with fillers and plugs in your oversized holes. In a closet, function can take precedence over aesthetics. Best regards, Ronnie
LiLoo: I read and read here on the forum, but I'm not getting much wiser...:confused: My partner and I are going to tear down a load-bearing wall between the living room and the kitchen. The problem is that the beam needed to support the ceiling will be 6.3 meters long. We asked a supplier of glulam what dimension was needed and the answer was a 63 cm high beam. The alternative to reduce the height of
mattiasp: I think 30000 seems completely unreasonable. It's not a difficult or large job. The house will likely remain until spring, and then we can start looking at what needs to be done. Unfortunately, I have no experience with what prices craftsmen charge, since I've issued a craftsman ban at home. I would almost take on the task of doing the job for you for 30000, even if it means I need to take time
fransico: [citat] Of course! Sometimes one can be really silly :) Thanks for the help
yens: Thanks! Perfect info, I will have a few degrees of slope, when I mean "fairly flat" I mean "no 30 degrees here"... The problem is that the existing roof slopes the "wrong way" (lower at the end where I want to extend), so I might consider trying to reverse it. The problem then is that there's an attached carport that I would also have to change the roof on, which suddenly becomes 38 square meters
order: Hey, I have worked a bit in the steel industry and I have taken down a wall in an industrial building, and we used a HEA 200 beam that was 12m long and supported by 4 columns. In your case, an HEA 180 would be sufficient, but if you want to oversize a little, you can go for an HEA 200. Ask your local metal workshop, and they will set up the beam for you. Best regards, Alex
Frodda: Hello everyone, I live in a split-level house from '77, where the balcony looks generally shabby, the wood is rotten and not maintained at all. My roof extends over the balcony with "legs" that go all the way down to the ground. My idea is to replace them with something sturdier, the question is just what? Suggestions? I have considered raw wood and just varnishing it, i.e., stripping the bark
sponken: Not a direct tip but at least something. /Sponken http://www.tekniikkatalous.fi/uutiset/article35501.ece
LUDDET: My concerns are because the old grout is not properly washed down. It spreads out too much. Has anyone dug out grout and put in new one? If so, did it go well?
79:an: Hello, I am also in the process of picking up and redoing a larger floor. Under my floor, there is about 1.5-2dm of sawdust, moss, needles, and other things, and beneath that lies about 2-3dm of clay plastering. I am trying to brace the floor somehow but haven't quite figured out how yet, it's an old log house. The span is about 6m, and there's a 50mm thick wooden floor that needs to go back in.
Mikael_L: You already have a finished slab...? So it’s not possible to lay macadam and insulation underneath now without redoing everything... Since you have an uninsulated slab-on-grade, you should expect it to always have 100% relative humidity. This means that any materials you allow to stay in permanent contact with the slab will absorb moisture until they are saturated at the boundary layer. Any
thomasd79: won't it be too sparse then? I have heard that you should preferably attach the panel at cc 600 but I might be wrong, it probably depends on the thickness of the panel
David250: [citat] I will do that, the funny thing is that it was at Woody here in Falkenberg where I got the answer above.
TorpAnders: About what I suspected... if I had more time, I would re-roof already now this year as soon as it gets a little cooler/drier outside. But with experience, I know that for every thing you lift, you find at least three new things that need to be addressed. But a tarp at the driveway doesn't look nice... asphalt sounds better in that case.
jannem: Hi, we have a house from 1921 and have knocked off the plaster from the chimney that we use, the chimney sweep had no complaints. But check with your own chimney sweep to be sure. /Janne
Daniel39: Thank you for the response. I plan to do roughly as you describe, a large hole in the ceiling to lift up the beam.
snickarboden: What do the builders say today then? Apparently the concrete workers have followed the plans, so there can hardly be anything wrong with the plans? It doesn't really matter because if someone had actually drawn such a sill placement, you address it as soon as it's discovered for correction. Well, you might do that, but unfortunately, it takes some time, and to not delay things, you proceed *sigh*
Loffe: Hi, I have used Swelites masonite beams for our extension of 140 sqm spread over 1& 3/4 floors. We used these beams in the floor joists (plinth foundation) H300; between the floor joists H220; roof rafters (HI400). The free span of the beams in the flooring is 3600 mm and the length of the roof rafters supporting a ridge beam in glulam and the outer wall is about 4700 mm. I don't remember the