Drywall, only vertical studs.

[charta77]

It's a simple question. What's absolutely best is too much,

Is it okay to have plasterboard walls on only upright frameworks, i.e., the place where the plaster is screwed is only on the long sides.

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[AndersS]

It works as long as you have a distance between the studs so that the board cannot buckle. I don't know your construction and if there are already studs in place, but then you can add some noggings.

 

[charta77]

Thank you for your response.

I was a bit concise last night.

cc60 is the spacing for the studs. 120cm board.

To me, it feels like the board might bend very, or too, easily if there isn't a nogging at the top/bottom of the studs behind it. But maybe that's not actually a concern?

 

[Mikael_L]

cc60 is standard together with regular 13 mm plasterboards. However, you should have nogging at the top and bottom. The usual practice is to have a bottom plate on the floor and one in the ceiling where the wall studs are positioned between, then you attach the plasterboard to these. If these are missing, you should add nogging as mentioned. Furthermore, there should be a stud or nogging behind each plasterboard joint. Above a door opening, the plasterboard should be L-shaped, meaning the joint between panels above the opening should not align with any of the vertical door jambs.

If you plan to tile on the boards, you must use double plasterboard or space the studs closer.

All this if you want a problem-free wall, where wallpapers don't crack and tile joints don't split.

 

[Mikael_L]

Braces with the sole purpose of supporting the board material probably do not need to be attached very seriously to the frame, especially if there are boards on both sides. The brace sits quite well and performs its function as soon as it is properly attached to the board.

 

[charta77]

Thank you thank you

 

[Mikael_L]

Above the doorway, the plasterboard should be L-shaped, meaning the seam between boards above the opening should not be in line with any of the vertical door frames.

Psst, all you carpenters here, is what I wrote correct?
Because that's at least what I've been taught, but sometimes you learn nonsense too ...

 

[jon_h]

Yep, that's very true.

 

[ByggaNytt]

http://www.norgips.se/index0,674.htm

 

[Mikael_L]

Well, look at that. Even a blind chicken...

 

[avendere]

cc60 is the standard along with regular 13 mm plasterboards.
However, you should have noggings at the top and bottom. Normally, you have a stud at the floor and one at the ceiling, between which the wall studs are placed, and you attach the plasterboard to these. If these are missing, you should indeed install noggings as mentioned.

I just have to agree with the above, take the time to at least attach noggings/sill at the floor level that go OVER the floor level. In my house, they were so "smart" to frame/plasterboard the walls BEFORE the floor, so the sill is about 10 cm below the finished floor, resulting in the plaster cracking, nothing to attach the baseboards to, and many curses during renovations...

//Marcus

 

[fridhem]

Do you need to splice over windows and doors if you have particleboard behind where the joints do not meet? And does this also apply to interior doors? Is it preferable to splice over due to any risk of cracking?

 

[Mikael_L]

It shouldn't really matter if it's the particle board or the plaster forming the L around the door or window opening. The important thing is that there is at least one uncut board in the joint since the risk of movement and settling is greater there than in a whole wall section without openings.

Particle board behind can be seen as a replacement for a backing seam plate according to bygganytt's attached image.

...at least I think so...