Hello everyone.
I have to build an interior wall and now I need some help.
Which material is best to use? I want it to be as soundproof as possible. The framework of the wall? Insulation?
As much advice as possible.
thanks...
I have to build an interior wall and now I need some help.
Which material is best to use? I want it to be as soundproof as possible. The framework of the wall? Insulation?
As much advice as possible.
thanks...
The rule for good soundproofing is: the heavier the wall, the better the soundproofing. Light walls, such as stud walls, are the worst.
There are also two types of sound to consider. On one hand, there is airborne sound (which sets the air in motion) and, on the other hand, structure-borne sound (which propagates through building components). Airborne sound is easier to manage. But, for example, a bass drum on the floor generates both airborne and structure-borne sound. To not hear the 'drummer' at work, you need to isolate against both types.
You don't mention where the wall is to be (house, apt, condominium) and what you are soundproofing against?
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Byggaren
There are also two types of sound to consider. On one hand, there is airborne sound (which sets the air in motion) and, on the other hand, structure-borne sound (which propagates through building components). Airborne sound is easier to manage. But, for example, a bass drum on the floor generates both airborne and structure-borne sound. To not hear the 'drummer' at work, you need to isolate against both types.
You don't mention where the wall is to be (house, apt, condominium) and what you are soundproofing against?
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Byggaren
It is a larger living room that will be divided into two children's rooms. The reason I'm asking for the best soundproofing is specifically because they are children's rooms and because they are next to our bedroom.
But you wrote that a normal stud wall is the worst, so what should I have instead? For example, materials?
But you wrote that a normal stud wall is the worst, so what should I have instead? For example, materials?
In this case, you don't have much choice since you probably don't want to use concrete. Instead, you need to construct the wall so that it becomes sound-insulating, and you can do this in two ways (skip the link you got from Norell).yjs said:
The one way (the best) is to build with heavy panels (MDF, OBS, or particleboard, at least 16 mm thick) on separate frames. That is, you set up a wall that is double. Between these, you insulate with mineral wool and also place mineral wool between the studs. For the frame, you can use 45x45 studs cc 400 or even better 45x70 cc 600. The panels are rigid enough to maintain flatness with these dimensions. The frames should then be set with a 40 mm gap between them. The wall will be a maximum of 16+45+40+45+16=162 mm if you choose 45x45 studs, otherwise 212mm with 45x70 studs. The bottom rail should be placed on a piece of needle felt mat or other vibration-damping material. It's also advisable to use it for the ceiling and against adjoining walls. This way, you manage both airborne and structure-borne noise well. It's also no disadvantage if you choose metal studs instead of wood.
The second way (worse in terms of structure-borne noise) is to build a frame on a common bottom rail of 45x145 where 45x45 or 45x70 studs are alternately placed against one side or the other so that a mineral wool mat can be threaded in a zigzag between them. Again, use heavy panels on both sides (Total wall thickness 16+145+16=177 mm.)
Since the bottom rail, ceiling, and wall studs in the latter case are shared, structure-borne noise vibrations are not prevented from transferring from one side to the other, unlike in the first case, where the walls can vibrate independently of each other without the vibrations transferring to the other side via the bottom rail, ceiling, and wall connections. It is also somewhat worse in terms of airborne noise since the gap isn't completely filled with mineral wool.
__________________
Byggaren
Hmm once again... double drywall 70 frame with joint sealing and insulation works excellently. Gives a 44 dB 50-3150 Hz Rw value, which is what is commonly used in residences and also between, for example, conference rooms.
Use an acoustic track at the bottom with rubber to reduce flanking transmission if you want, but that is clearly overkill.
Sound-wise, a screaming child around 90 dB if they are having lots of fun or are reasonably angry, and theoretically, you have 54 dB left... a conversation at 70 dB will be perceived as more than twice as strong. Then there's jumping and such, and there is no wall in the world that dampens that if you're talking about flanking transmissions since these don't concern the wall as such. Except that the wall indirectly increases the total weight on the floor joists and therefore can swing more. (But that's a stretch)
If we're talking best and least effective, the very best is to have a 2-layer construction with different weights like drywall, cavity, brick/concrete, but it is overkill to the point of being ridiculous. Otherwise, what the builder said, a double construction of drywall is the most cost-effective. It costs you about 400 SEK/square meter in materials somewhere. If you take a single frame construction, you're looking at around 350 SEK. However, a double construction is significantly thicker, and if it is to be most effective, the floor between the parts of the wall should be cut open, as well as the ceiling, etc. Again clearly overkill but for clarification.
If I were you, I would make a simple 70 frame of wood or metal with an acoustic track on the floor, ceiling, and against the walls. Then double drywall and 45 mm insulation. Perfect. If you want to easily screw things in, you can either replace one layer with OSB, plywood, or whatever you want with the result that the wall becomes somewhat worse in terms of sound insulation. Or you can throw in the same material between the studs... But hey, all ways are correct except the incorrect ones.
Use an acoustic track at the bottom with rubber to reduce flanking transmission if you want, but that is clearly overkill.
Sound-wise, a screaming child around 90 dB if they are having lots of fun or are reasonably angry, and theoretically, you have 54 dB left... a conversation at 70 dB will be perceived as more than twice as strong. Then there's jumping and such, and there is no wall in the world that dampens that if you're talking about flanking transmissions since these don't concern the wall as such. Except that the wall indirectly increases the total weight on the floor joists and therefore can swing more. (But that's a stretch)
If we're talking best and least effective, the very best is to have a 2-layer construction with different weights like drywall, cavity, brick/concrete, but it is overkill to the point of being ridiculous. Otherwise, what the builder said, a double construction of drywall is the most cost-effective. It costs you about 400 SEK/square meter in materials somewhere. If you take a single frame construction, you're looking at around 350 SEK. However, a double construction is significantly thicker, and if it is to be most effective, the floor between the parts of the wall should be cut open, as well as the ceiling, etc. Again clearly overkill but for clarification.
If I were you, I would make a simple 70 frame of wood or metal with an acoustic track on the floor, ceiling, and against the walls. Then double drywall and 45 mm insulation. Perfect. If you want to easily screw things in, you can either replace one layer with OSB, plywood, or whatever you want with the result that the wall becomes somewhat worse in terms of sound insulation. Or you can throw in the same material between the studs... But hey, all ways are correct except the incorrect ones.
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