Building Materials and Construction Technology
avendere: Ok, thanks, let's go with that... Best regards, Marcus
Joher: We have a house from 1875 and now the idea is to build a glass veranda in an old style. The house stands on a solid stone foundation. And where the glass veranda is to be located, there is already an extended stone foundation and a poured floor. The size of the foundation is about 3m wide, 1.70 deep. The height up to the existing eaves is about 2.45m. I was thinking of placing 6 posts, two at
jeppeknaster: Maybe a dumb question but I'll ask it anyway. I'm going for the first coat with LIP's vapor barrier VS20 and it says on the can/website that if the substrate is absorbent, the primer should be diluted 1:5 for the first coat. The wallboard is probably absorbent but the self-leveling compound?
imported_Byggaren: Tear off the old hatch and replace it with two hatches. One hatch that is light and opens upwards. Another hatch that is thick (with insulation) and goes downwards. The weight is distributed across two hatches, making it easy to pull up the lower hatch with a rope from floor level in a convenient way (which can then rest on the hatch). The upper hatch will then only have the weight of the parquet
imported_Byggaren: It doesn't matter what season it is when you buy the timber. The decisive factor for quality is when it was felled (preferably in winter), where it grew (preferably in cold regions where the growth rate is low and the timber is therefore denser than where it grows faster in warmer regions. For example, there is a big difference between Småländsk pine and norrlandsfur, the former being vresved,
moddha: nah... there are a few more advantages than that, I think: "plåtsyllarna" have built-in sill paper attached (at least the ones I've bought). it's easier to eliminate thermal bridges if they are in a wall that needs to be insulated. it's super quick to cut studs without getting sawdust everywhere. there are pre-drilled holes for pipe installation. but I can actually add a disadvantage too: I
JockeK: There I have the answer, place a laminated beam over it, and attach the three roof trusses to it.
Tjacko: For 600,000:- I'll take on the job and guarantee the bridge for a number of years :-) Then you can bring in someone who drills wells (geothermal heat pump hole) and pull down some odex pipes that you build on. It will be essentially like what you have today but with pipes instead of a u-beam.
imported_Byggaren: The wall is usually built double with an air gap in between so that the walls cannot touch each other. Two layers of 13 gypsum towards the room sides. One layer of gypsum towards the air gap. Insulation with mineral wool (mu) in both walls. Stone is always a better sound and fire insulating material than wood and gypsum. But even here, a double-layer wall is preferable over a solid one, with the
Pepparkaka: I recognize the above! The plaster was screwed into that profile. But first, I recall that I installed http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=3859 in the walls and ceiling.
scenic46: Insulation under slab on ground is at least 300mm in southern/central Sweden. Further north with deep frost, even 400mm may be justifiable plus perimeter insulation 1 meter out from the house. The construction otherwise, i.e. if there are no insulated elements at the edge, can determine how one "should" proceed otherwise to avoid frost heave, heat loss, and a cold edge zone inside. The experts
Bastefallarn: Otherwise, there's the Nivell system, which solves both the moisture and uneven floor problems, and the floor also becomes warmer. I installed it in a room in our basement that we use as a bedroom, and it turned out great. www.nivell.se
dalle: I have not had any problems cutting 5x5 in my tile cutter (admittedly of good quality). The only times I used the saw was when I needed to cut off one cm or less. For the wall outlets, I removed the tiles affected by the outlets from the net and cut away what was needed, either with the tile cutter or with the power saw.
jawen: Fun to help someone and also spread knowledge at the same time, hope everything goes well. A tip for rebuilding bathroom joists is to instead place loose expanded clay balls 8-12mm in the joists, it provides good sound insulation overall and is cost-effective. Best regards, jawen
Bonan: I have tiled the wall between the kitchen counter and the cabinet frames with cut brick. You can usually find it at reconstruction depots. They are no more than a few millimeters thick and weigh nothing. They are cut from real brick so they look authentic and are much cheaper than the full sheets you can otherwise buy in stores. As for maintenance, it works to seal them just as you would with
LOS: I'm raising the thread. Is it "cement" I should buy and mix in a bucket, to smack it on with a trowel? Should you have "pust" on the outside? Or just white paint?
Badger: [citat] http://www.maxit.se/2223 Can be used on most surfaces. Which I believe is what you are looking for. See also the description for tips that are there.
Mats: I would dismantle the existing wall and then run electricity and possibly water and kotta for the cabinets. Then for example plywood + plasterboard on the outside.
Johan Gunverth: Sika has a number of products that, among others, plumbers use for quick sealing. I think it's Sika-3 you're looking for.
Mangan: We can't decide whether to build with isoleca, lammiblock, or regular lecablocks that are then insulated externally. I have always thought that it is advantageous to keep the insulation as far out as possible, but that is contradicted by the isoleca and lammiblock approach. I don't know what lammiblock costs, but it looks incredibly convenient to just stack them up and then fill with concrete.
magnusss: Agree with Farzan, it's building up a bit too much. The limit is probably at 2m, you don't want it lower (I think). What kind of roof do you have? Maybe you can get height there.
Styx: It's specifically the back part that's concerned..!
pimpelipompeli: Have looked at different options for expanding a fairly newly built house -03. I am wondering if it is reliably possible to build an additional floor using used office modules, which can then be supplementary insulated, with windows added, etc. Kind regards, Pimpelipompeli
fialottabus: Hello! I'm wondering if there's anyone who has bought a garage door from Skånska Bygg? It is an up-and-over door and I believe it is relatively cheap - 7000kr. Is there anyone here who has experience and can tell why one should not buy this budget item? Regards, Fialotta
Bastefallarn: If you are a member at the träguiden, there are examples of how to proceed. If the notch is a U shape with the opening upwards, a screw-glued 22mm particle board is recommended as a compression flange at the top, and a 19mm K-plywood screwed or nailed under the notch. 25mm construction timber is also suitable instead of plywood. www.traguiden.se It costs nothing to become a member, there is