Building Materials and Construction Technology
Farzan: There are some people with dual competence as architects/building engineers and I think it might be good for you to talk to one of them. A small consultation to determine if it's even feasible need not be expensive at all. When we were house hunting three years ago and were interested in a property that we would have needed to expand, I actually got in touch with a combined architect and building
HusByggarTomten: Can't you lay tiles on a larger area in front of the door and, for example, a line straight across that then goes over to the wooden deck? What does the floor plan look like?
jawen: Take a regular saw (hand saw) that you don't mind damaging, then bend the saw blade by pressing it against the wall and saw off "your dent", easy as pie. Best regards, Jawen
Fredrik.engdahl: keep in mind that they need to be primed a couple of times and then painted. they are also only 2400 long so you'll have a seam if you have 2500 or more. this can be solved with a very high baseboard or some kind of molding.. if you want smooth walls, plasterboard is the best but then you have to spackle, etc. (I know you said you didn't want plasterboard but you didn't say why)
Milkshaken: Building an element house with standing tongue and groove, round head nails, and then the green iron vitriol... (Will turn gray within a year) Really looks cheap...
Swetrot: You can forget the invoice, but VISA cards usually work well even in Poland.
imported_Byggaren: Your problem seems to be more of the type: 'get the basement dry so that new timber does not meet the same fate'. So it doesn't really matter for the wood if it's treated or not unless you fix that problem. (You might possibly get a scent from treated wood that you don't get from plain wood.) If you want better security against future rot, then make sure that the supports are separated from the
Loffe: Hello! Has anyone installed TM board ceilings in their construction? If so, are you satisfied with the product, installation, color fastness, appearance, price? Thankful for answers.
Fasting65: Bauhaus, K-rauta, a well-stocked hardware store have them. Called porous wood board or similar. Ex: http://www.k-rauta.se/bygg_3210.htm
M.Larsen: I'll call them tomorrow and see what they say...
qrz: I have heard in several places that there is some form of protection to put in front of VP pipes to prevent penetration by nails, but no one seems to know what kind of device it is... Is it something that exists and is used in reality?
mycke_nu: [citat] Concrete tiles are heavy, consider if you might opt for an alternative with sheet metal instead. Besides making the roof lighter, the snow also slides off better.
Motorsågsmannen: A bit fun to be able to reuse old materials! In my house, during the renovation, I've been able to see how visible wooden details have been hidden, like the beadboard (covered with masonite). They were probably classified as "cheap" before, and that's likely why people wanted to hide them. Now the trend is the opposite, and it's also very stylish! :)
mycke_nu: [citat] Building (among other things) a workshop 6x10m, 3m high LECA masonry and a high roof with a 45-degree roof pitch in the most exposed wind conditions on Gotland. Equipped with a high school and engineering education (electrical/telecommunications/technical physics), I've tried to calculate different load cases using what I've Googled on the internet. Not exactly easy when many terms and
Nellita: Hi everyone, I'm a new member but have been reading here for a long time and have gotten lots of tips. I've been struggling to clean a ceiling with layers of old distemper paint - but how can you be sure that you've reached the 'base', so that it's possible to paint with primer without it peeling off? And how long do you have to wait to see if it worked? We thought about test painting a section
Herman hedning: multi master is for wimps. cut the joint with a tiger saw cc100 and knock off the pieces with a hammer on a good tiger you can turn the blade upside down to reach better
andersmc: They're sold almost everywhere. Classe has them, but they should be available in any hardware store.
Herman hedning: A Haki scaffold at the height of the eaves, large enough to accommodate all the tiles so you don't have to lift them down and up. Take one side at a time masonite no thanks
Herman hedning: cast with expansion mortar all the way up to the bottom edge of the post, but don't forget the syllpapp
FredrikBo: "Dr.SiC!" You are absolutely right, it's a regular website, and within it, there's a blog that I've transformed into a guided tour. All the extra features have been removed, and there are only 9 category buttons left. So yes, you're right... It's a website, but calling it a blog as I sometimes do makes you feel a bit special for 10 seconds. Blogging, as they say, is all the rage nowadays.
Manberg: Yes, you let the wall studs go as high as the ceiling is supposed to be if I understand you correctly. Maybe you can benefit from the images I attach? http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd265/Rackarn/DSC01499.jpg http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd265/Rackarn/DSC01500.jpg http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd265/Rackarn/DSC01498.jpg That's what I did on an existing log house where he wanted an
fantasi: [citat] :D a real McGyver technique Yep, only 3mm, but then the ceiling needs to be painted too so 5-6mm would be good.
osueco: My old floor joists in the bathroom need to be replaced. The length is 2.2 meters. The old beams were 120x45, and I suspect this might be a bit weak when I tile the bathroom, so I'm considering if it might be sufficient to build a support wall in the middle. This would reduce the distance to just 1.1 meters between supports for the joists. Is this strong enough to meet the GVK's requirements?
Saxpy: If you had lived in the Stockholm area, I could have suggested smaller planing mills that could handle that for you without any problem. But as the previous speaker mentioned, call around to small planing mills or sawmills. There must be many in Småland, and you get a little trip as well.
Mangan: The old collection of wooden beams and bricks that previous owners have used as a foundation for our small greenhouse has done its job, and now I will build a smaller foundation for the greenhouse to stand on. I plan to make the foundation about 50 cm high with about 20 cm lying in the ground. What I'm wondering is if there are any nice stackable blocks that don't require mortar that I can use. I
Mats: Did the same. Plasterboard lift and regular wall gypsum plus a Makita in top form :)
JonasHolm: Hello I'm sitting here contemplating the sizing of a porch roof. I was thinking of a roof attached to the facade and supported by two posts with a distance of 3m between them and the posts standing 1.5 meters out from the facade. Could someone help me with the sizing of the beams and rafters, or direct me to some good information on the subject? I have searched online, but I only find info on the
Årstakillen: Hello, I have just bought a summer cottage from the 1930s. At some point in history, the owner removed the beadboard and replaced it with chipboard instead. The beadboard has been stored outdoors under the house. The question now is whether it is possible to reuse the beadboard and reinstall it in the house, or if it is ruined. I have looked at a few pieces and they do not seem to be damaged in
spocks_beard: Hello Call Alingsås, http://www.hustillhus.se/ They have loads of "bråte" in the yard I saw when I was there. If they don't have any, maybe they can give you a tip on who you can call. Good luck. Jocke
avendere: Ok, thanks, let's go with that... Best regards, Marcus