Building Materials and Construction Technology
emilbjorling: Considering how I should solve an installation of a central vacuum cleaner. My idea is to place the unit in the garage and from there run pipes to the house (Not attached). It is a new construction, and I was thinking about possibly running the central vacuum pipe through the house foundation before they pour it. What should I consider? What quality should the pipe be? If you have more tips and
norrbottenstorpet: Anyone have a clue? :( I heard a figure that the boundary between so-called "heavy fireplace" and light fireplace was at 300 kg, which would mean that normally one rarely loads more than that with "point load" on a regular wooden beam floor. Anyone who can give me a rough idea of load-bearing capacity? I am fully aware that it probably can't apply specifically to my situation, but there are more
saturnus: No, it is not risk-free to remove the frame, so be careful. You should expect a little extra work, with propping up, before you start messing with the frame. Assuming you are talking about brick walls, then you can open up the hole as you wish, and insert a wooden batten on the sides and brick/plaster the whole thing. It would have been easier if you had shown a picture/photo.
jon_h: Over time, the plaster can experience ettringite formation, causing it to swell and crack. There might be other possible consequences as well, I don't know. Check what product he used and consult with the supplier to see what they say.
cederbusch: Hello. I am planning to install a new stove in our small cabin this winter. There is a brick chimney that stands about half a meter outside the house. I will route the flue pipe in a different way than it is currently, which will result in a hole in the chimney. Additionally, the top 3-4 layers are in somewhat poor condition, so something needs to be done there. After reading online, I have come
Boro_Berghem: I'm planning to put up new walls in the basement with some help, it will become a bathroom and laundry room. I've removed the ceiling (tongue-and-groove boards) and taken down the insulation (sawdust) to be able to lay out electricity, water, heating, and ventilation neatly. In the laundry room, the tongue-and-groove boards (about 22mm) are still there, and in the bathroom, I plan to put up
snickarboden: Well, it's a bit unsightly to insert small pieces by the posts. I think it looks better to splice on longer battens or 45x45. /Kent
Letalis: I can't use Stela VPrör because the outer roof is in the way. and I would prefer not to cut open the wall, It will take a while before I get around to renovating the living room.
HasseHunna: Thanks for the answer. However, there is nothing made of concrete or lime near the gutters. The house has a wooden facade and a lacquered sheet metal roof.
fredand44: Hello! Thanks for the reply! Yes, that was not a bad idea. If I understand you correctly, these extra air gap battens only function as spacers to keep any bulging Windy apart from the panel. But they are not something you nail into. They are just attached to the top plate and the sill? Should work excellently. Best regards, Fredrik
fredand44: Hello! A thousand thanks for the answers! Dad and I were pondering a bit about this. So I said we should ask on byggahus.se. Dad was really impressed when I got a quick response from you! Again, a thousand thanks! Fredrik
Mohha: Have removed a staircase and now need to fill in the hole about 2 m wide and 1.5 m long. I have some questions about how thick the joists should be. The old thick joists you can see are about 170x140 mm, spaced about 1 meter center to center. My idea is to use joist hangers like http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=2801 for 170x45 joists 2 meters long spaced 500 mm center to
Mohha: no risk that the insulation board "slides out" when there are no boards on both sides?
it-snubben: Well, you can't place the plaster freely on the beams, i.e., you must have a stable floor underneath. Moving the entire thread to Construction Materials & Construction Technology instead since it seems more appropriate there. IT guy/moderator
Tosse: [citat] Working link: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/juridik/27567-ersaettning-vid-dolt-fel.html
Lindgrenski: The exchange is now complete, now everything just needs to be tidied up.
Tosse: Ok, thank you all for your responses! Then I will focus on finding a suitable tape. Any suggestions for models? Thanks again! Tosse
Mats: It is a job for a designer to calculate how it looks and what is required. Generally speaking, the larger and stronger the beams, the fewer supports, but it is a bit of a science to get it right, so someone is needed who can calculate and study the whole thing on site.
Mats: A FAQ would undoubtedly be a good idea. Anyone interested in starting to write one?
snickarboden: Correct. Or I could let the plasterboard finish a few centimeters above the lecablock. That is, place a batten or something else as a spacer when putting up the boards. This is if you want the plasterboard inside the edge of the beam/foundation. It depends a bit on the measurements on the drawings if you build that way, if you are building freehand, you do as you please. /Kent
kungkokos: [citat] Yes, of course, the first barrier is a good waterproofing layer. But you shouldn't skip the vapor barrier because then the moisture continues to migrate into the wooden structure, which is much more expensive to fix.
fredand44: A thousand thanks for the answers!!! Then it won't be 12*50 thanks to you!!! Best regards, Fredrik
Kurtivan: Since you are not concerned about the strength, you can use metal studs and gypsum on it. Simple and quick!
aktieante: Hello! I have installed outdoor gypsum on the ceiling over a patio. How should the surface be treated in the best way? I want a painted surface. Specific putty? Moisture barrier? Special paint? Grateful for any answers.
snickarboden: 1. Yes. 2. How is the drainage? It may need to be redone. /Kent