Building Materials and Construction Technology
Apprentice: A more expensive but electrically smooth alternative is to replace the OSB with ändspont.
190Ecosworth: There are swivel wall mounts!! I have one for my 32" in my bedroom, and it's angled 45 degrees as it sits in the corner.
kungkokos: Your setup regarding the smoke pipe sounds good! I understand that a "gypsum drum" is a common solution, but it's very difficult to fit in afterward. The rubber membrane you mention might be what I'm looking for. I wonder what material it's made of that isn't flammable. A similar rubber membrane should be able to run against the ventilation duct, right? As I understand it, one shouldn't let the
byyga8hus: Hello! I need a 6-meter long railing for a balcony. The railing should rest on three supports (the corners of the balcony and one in the middle). I need an impr 170x45mm to ensure good protection for the posts (146x45 wasn't enough). Since 6-meter impr seems a bit hard to come by, I'm wondering how to create a nice joint on the middle support. I've looked around in the forum, and I'm now
Per_Kylsten: Hello Maxtor Sorry for the late reply, but I didn't see your question until now. We have used fiber gypsum from Fermacell - bought through Fredells (Stockholm). The price was almost exactly twice as expensive per m2 as single gypsum - but the fiberboards are significantly stronger than double gypsum. They deliver on their promise regarding strength. Problems? Yes - they are much more difficult to
Altuna: I want to create an extra bedroom by dividing the living room without damaging the floor and ceiling coverings or puncturing the water pipes in the floor. The interior wall should be mounted between two load-bearing exterior walls. On one side, it should be mounted against a glue-laminated beam between two glass partitions and can be a maximum of 120mm thick, including everything. On the opposite
carlbanan: There is also something called panelskivan... But I think it cost 140kr per square meter or something like that... Convenient to work with anyway
bergstrollet: There is now also sill insulation in rubber that I can recommend since it also evens out smaller gaps.
Bob_the_builder: I assume you mean that the asfaboard is the subfloor. I also assume that the friggebod is on a simple foundation, like plinths. The problem then is that the wind can blow into the insulation and the mice get an open highway into the floor - so yes, it should be sealed, preferably with battens so that the board doesn't start sagging over time.
Janneman: Thanks for the tips, I will go there and buy.
fredd4n: We are renovating our kitchen and after tearing down some high cabinets, it turned out that the ceiling panel was not installed above these cabinets. After the renovation, we will not have any cabinets there, so we need to fix the ceiling in the most efficient/attractive way possible. We believe it is fjällpanel that is there now, so one option is to buy exactly the same panel (if available) and
Kurtivan: You can also let the upper poles by the surface go further down and then attach the lower end under the surface, so that it forms a trianglarunder. That makes it very stable sideways.
Västerhaninge 17: OK, thanks for the info, I'll see how I make it to my house:rolleyes:
byggamax: On the lower floor, it will mostly be bedrooms, so I want it a bit cooler. Also, not the entire upper floor will be built over. The rest will become a small terrace, possibly glazed.
Milkshaken: Nice that you solved it, I would probably have shortened the downpipe and added two 45-degree bends with possibly a piece in between.
v-g: If the tiles are already set, there's now a difference in level ;) The grout makes it less noticeable, but it also depends on what kind of tiles you have. I had rustic ones with uneven edges, so it wasn't noticeable at all (though I did lay them pretty evenly anyway ;) ) A tip if you don't have a super smooth floor is to test lay with one tile; it's easy for there to be a bump or something
bearpower: Now I don't know if this topic landed in the right place, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if there are different types of non-slip and in different colors? I have painted the basement stairs white and want to put on some stylish non-slip. It should preferably cover the entire step.
Robuster: Interesting construction. It's certainly possible to pour concrete if you build a sturdy mold and everything, but I would probably look for Y-tong elements or something similar. The advantage is that they insulate much better and are lighter. Then I would really make sure to seal, but maybe not directly against the concrete. I would probably use isodrän panels on top of the concrete roof and on
bigsnucke: I am renovating the house's laundry room/bathroom in the basement. (Original condition from 1950 except for the bykgryta:) went out last year...) Fully tiled and nice it should be (someone thinks...) The outer wall/masonry (siporex) is very unevenly plastered, it sticks well for the most part and not at all here and there... Somewhere I've read that regular c-plaster is not suitable for siporex
Sir Fer: I plan to build in my porch with an existing roof. The floor area is relatively limited, and to maximize the interior space, I am looking for a compact/thin exterior wall construction. The constructions I have found so far typically amount to 350mm. The house is a turn-of-the-century wooden house with exterior paneling, and I intend to have plasterboard inside. I would be very grateful for tips
injonil: Log dance! No, it's probably true, and I don't think it will flex much either. But I DON'T know :D On the other hand, only half of the framework is that thick, the rest are the roof trusses with 45x225.
fredand44: Hello myself! First of all, I have drawn the panleplanka upside down and backwards. So if you could overlook that, I would appreciate any feedback. Best regards, Fredrik
Henry Porter: Snickar lasse! your'e the man:) I checked their website and you are right! They have headquarters and a warehouse in Halmstad. I will call tomorrow and ask. Looked at the molds a bit and it will save a lot of time and with a much better result too. Just hope one can rent as a private person. Bugar o bockar!!
Anonymiserad 23608: It's no myth. Plywood and OSB should be installed with a few mm gap to accommodate moisture movements. A plywood sheet is cross-laminated, which reduces movements, but it also means that movements are equally large (about 1 mm/m) in all directions.
Mikael_L: [citat] I'm not entirely sure that reasoning holds. Depending on the design of the house and roof, the surrounding terrain, and wind conditions at the location, there can be uplift forces on a house sufficient to topple it if it isn't anchored down well enough. I believe at least Mycke_nu had calculated fairly substantial uplift forces on a house... I myself wouldn't take the chance, so I will
wedin: I have taken down a concrete block wall in the apartment, which will be moved ½ m. The wall was/is 275 cm high, the blocks relatively thin, about 75 mm, no reinforcement and a single nail as anchoring in the load-bearing wall. The wall will need to support a toilet fixture. Is it sensible to use the old and thin blocks, or must/should I increase the dimensions? Proper reinforcement and anchoring
Sundance Kid: Hello, I'm considering building a Smålandsvilla but I'm hesitating a bit as it's not possible to choose raw planks under the roof tiles. The thing is, I don't really care about it, but it's visible from the outside that there are no raw planks; if you look up under the roof from the outside, there are painted fiberboards instead of raw planks. Is it possible to add a facade with raw planks
Hyttmyra: We have a patio with 22 m2 of wall and 28 m2 of ceiling What can be done instead of installing regular interior panels.. Chipboard on the wall with woven wallpaper? What can be installed on the ceiling considering we have a metal roof and there will probably be some condensation under it??????