Building Materials and Construction Technology
manet: Hello! I've been looking at a house built in 1980. It turns out that during a preliminary inspection, it was discovered that the moisture content of the sill on one of the gable ends is at 16 and 17%, respectively. The limit is 16% according to the realtor. Is it the case that you should just replace a damp sill, or is it enough to identify the source of the problem, address it, and dry out the
blackadder: It will probably be easier if you glue over the entire surface, otherwise it's difficult to get an even edge. There should be recommendations for suitable glue where you bought the plastic.
fonzig: [bild] We have started renovating our wet room in the basement and a tile in the ceiling was cracked, so I took it down and began to wonder if it might be asbestos cement, it's also on 2 doors and the door frames. Hoping for a reply//Emil
villafors: Anyone know how serious mold infestation on structural timber is? I have found some gray spots on certain pieces, not too many luckily. What is the best thing to do, there are products you can spray on, do you gain anything from that? I don't want to use a lot of products unnecessarily...
Milkshaken: well, it's that simple... The Osb,n is held in place with brads using the simplest possible nail... until you screw with screws that go through everything and also hold everything in the wooden stud behind... No need to complicate it any further...
Mikael_L: I would think that the beam you're talking about, 120x90, and 120 in height then, doesn't become significantly stronger when glued. But probably a bit more resistant to twisting. In the other direction, however, gluing helps. Without glue, the strength is about twice the strength of such a beam. With glue, the beam behaves like a homogeneous beam twice as high, and then the strength becomes...
smidifix: No one has any idea :-( Best regards, Linus
Binesh: What is its effect? How can it refine the concrete? In which phase of curing should it be troweled?
duell: What would be the advantage of a wider rule? The risk of it going into oscillation? Why lower?
Annelie E: Is of varying quality and vintage. There are a few tongue-and-groove thick plank floors with really wide gaps, varnished I guess, how do I take care of these? Then there is a relatively newly laid pine floor that is high-gloss lacquered. We'll see what we do about it eventually, for now, it stays as is (we bought the cottage this spring). In the hallway, there's an old dirty wooden floor, with a
Ilam: Hello! I'm looking to set up wooden lighting poles, that is, a completely standalone pole outdoors, attached to a buried footing (like a pergola or carport, for example). I have some thoughts on how to do this and what's possible... They don't need to be very heavy-duty since the pole will only carry itself, a lamp weighing a maximum of about 10 kg, and possibly wind load. What dimensions would
trojlee: If you want to be sure, you drill down rebar into the old slab and tie them together with longitudinal rebar along the "beam" you plan to cast... that's how I would have done it.. / M
fredand44: Hello! Just spoke with the lumber yard and they said I would probably solve the problem easiest by adding extra joists exactly where I will have the rafters. I will then have cc 1200 between the rafters but will have to cut and fiddle a bit with the insulation on the lower floor. I'm unsure if I could embed a horizontal 45*170 well enough for it to truly be load-bearing. A little annoying play
RobertC: Hi, I've installed my window and managed to attach the handle a quarter turn wrong. Does anyone know how to remove the handle on an sp window?
oskis 123: There is a screw brand called Jetting, and their outdoor model is sort of golden brown anodized. So not the usual steel color. Is that common in general? Does anyone know?
Buuzzz: Thrown away and a new gypsum board has been purchased :D Thanks for the answer ACME
Bnicke: Thank you ACME (and everyone else) for sorting things out! * A nose could be a nice solution, I'll think about it. * A fall of 5 mm in the rest of the bathroom is perfectly fine, I can go with that. For the slope in the shower, I don't want it in the entire bathroom. Nice that you don't have to stand and lean in the bathroom ;) * I'll take a closer look at the drains, thanks for the tips. A cheap
njitnjau: Hello, I have an old house with a brick facade which results in the brick sticking out a few cm beyond the foundation. However, I would like to have the old appearance back with a base that protrudes a few cm outside the facade instead. Does anyone have tips on how to achieve this? It feels difficult/stupid to add more plaster to the foundation... (about 5cm) Can one "cheat" and build it up with
faraday: How and where can I find more info about this? I want to create a round hole/window in a load-bearing interior wall made of concrete. The wall is between two doors, four meters long, normal height, and 250mm wide. I assume someone needs to do the calculations, but I was wondering if there are any guidelines like, "on a three-meter span, you can always cut a hole with a maximum diameter of
verktygsgurun: I met this guy when I was trying out a garden chair at Jula. He had some ideas. http://www.skogssallskapet.se/skogsvarden/2004_4/sv06.php http://www.refond.lby.se/
Villa_Granberg: We will need a scaffold that is about 8 m high and with "adjustable legs" because we will be standing on a rock ridge, which slopes steeply downhill. So the front "legs" should be adjustable to be 30-60 cm shorter than the back ones. Hope you understand what I mean ;) If anyone has good tips on where to rent these or possibly buy used in Stockholm and surrounding areas, I would be very grateful.
jv12: I bought paint for my house in Norway. It might seem strange considering their overall price levels, but the paint was much cheaper.
Milkshaken: I would probably have torn off both the wood and the mexin, then added insulation from the outside, to then put up a nice standing z-panel.. I mean if you're already putting in such a big job as changing the exterior cladding, it's just as well to do it properly, plus you'll save a lot of money on heating as well..
HusByggarTomten: You don't think a product like tile can be made in different ways, is that what you're saying? A white is a white and a 10x10 is what it is? That it's not possible to produce different properties such as finish, durability, and error margins? :) Okay...
Fabian-Bom: You don't need an air gap for the reason you mentioned. Most sheet materials are diffusion-open or, as you say, "breathe". On the contrary, you benefit from it being tight because then you reduce the effect of convection. Use a 2.5cm stud if you want to straighten up or install concealed systems, otherwise skip it.
Bond: Hello in my rafter roof it is constructed as follows, 45x34 batten attached to the roof truss, 3.2 mm masonite placed against it, a board in the middle of the masonite to prevent the paper from resting against the masonite and blocking, as I have different angles on the inner and outer roof, the air gap is not needed all the way up. Hope the picture clarifies everything.