How to attach mountain paneling?

[ClasseClas]

Also check http://www.byggbeskrivningar.se under Exterior-> Exterior wood panel. There are some good tips even on how the battening should be done.

 

[Plupp 23608]

ett spik skall det vara.

En spik ska det väl ändå vara..

 

[Milkshaken]

Oh, that almost went really badly..
fredan44: Horizontal paneling is the hardest to achieve good water drainage from, I do not recommend nailing any horizontal paneling at all, but sticking to vertical. (Yes, I understand that you have lap siding on your residential house, but after having worked on properties with both vertical and horizontal paneling, it's always been better behind the vertical... Water drains off the vertical paneling better, especially if you make the traditional 15-degree cut. In other words, the risk of moisture damage is much higher with horizontal paneling than with vertical... And you also don't seem to be quite sure which side is out and in on the panel. I think you should consult with a carpenter who can come to your home, both about the suitability of lap siding, and then also if he can nail it up for you. It must be absolutely tight at the seams, horizontal paneling tends to never be completely straight just because they're nailed together with different force...
You should use a string along, about every third row, to ensure it is straight.

This is by no means a direct criticism of you or your choice, but just a recommendation...

 

[ClasseClas]

Mountain paneling should be ventilated behind the panel. From Din Byggare.

Horizontal wood paneling
Horizontal wood paneling is not as moisture-repellent as vertical. Water runs sideways, it is difficult to make vertical board joints completely tight, at least as difficult to seal connections to windows and doors, and water can become trapped in the joints.

If an air gap is missing behind this type of paneling - which is often the case with so-called fjällpanel - the wood can retain so much moisture over time that damage occurs.

Therefore, horizontal paneling should not be nailed to the wall's vertical studs, but instead to a separate batten, allowing for a continuous air gap vertically. Check the joints, possibly touch up the painting, and nail down boards that are starting to come loose.

 

[Milkshaken]

Yes Classe.... Kind of what I wrote, many of them nail directly onto the asfa board the outer gypsum, precisely because they already "See" vertical studs behind....

 

[fredand44]

Hello!

Thank you so much for all the comments.

I have accounted for the air gap.
Below on the link, you can see a front sketch of a frame and from above with the parts included.
http://sqflqq.blu.livefilestore.com...EwWTKrml32WeBRCMzzDPNTEKxo8uE/byggexempel.GIF

NOTE the cc measurement on the horizontal 45*45 is a bit odd, I don't know where I got that from, it should probably be 60 there as well.

So, I have planned for an air gap of 12mm between the panel and Windy.

Best regards,
Fredrik

 

[fredand44]

Just got a response in another of my threads that 12*50 is too weak and results in too narrow an air gap. So I will probably go up a bit here.
Regards
Fredrik

 

[Milkshaken]

I would have gone for at least 34 mm in the air gap.... the width doesn't matter, only the thickness.....

 

[Milkshaken]

still think you should talk to a snickare about your case....

 

[estwing]

as an air gap, use sparse 28x70
regards
snickar estwing

 

[Milkshaken]

Yes, carpenter Estving is right in this case.... Had forgotten 28X70.... I'm on vacation.....

 

[fredand44]

Thank you so much!!

Best regards
Fredrik