Building Materials and Construction Technology
ingemar_o: there might be another problem with covering with copper sheets, it probably won't stay in place for long copper is often stolen a lot around the country unfortunately
swecheck: Hello, We are going to restore a floor after water damage; the house was built in the early 70s and has had a raised floor on a slab with age-resistant plastic underneath. When the moisture technician came out to inspect, he detected a fairly high moisture level across the entire slab and suggested that a type of Nivellgolv would be suitable for the whole house. What do you do now in the kitchen
anaitis: [citat] If you want, I can come. Send PM if so.
anaitis: [citat] You need to tell more about how the support will be under the beam. i.e., position of the vertical supports.
anaitis: [citat] The idea is that the Substrate board (Paroc 2mm thick) hangs down between the roof trusses. Then there will be a gap there. I can't answer your second question without having seen drawings and the construction.
torparkillen: Thank you for the answer. What type of wood would you recommend? raw board with untreated side outwards or something else? I got the tip of "regular" wood but that it dries and that there will be gaps. On the other hand, it doesn't bother me much since I have a white-painted MDF board behind it. My question was if you could stain the wood with a white stain, not much, but just so it gets a
norrbottenstorpet: [citat] If the basement is heated, yes, otherwise it's hardly worth it. Usage must dictate this.
lavin: Humorous interpretation or just another take on the word building conservation? Is it time for building conservation to step over the 1950s threshold and embrace mexitegel? Who knows, this might be the future! Funny when posts end up in the wrong section =)
Byggare Thor: Is there anyone here who might have a good drawing on how to construct a fireplace that will later have an insert installed? The idea is to build it with soapstone and also pipes to circulate the air, but I'm not quite sure how it should look. Grateful if someone would like to share!
ktm250: Repair mortar alternatively Rapid Concrete Putty would probably fit well. http://www.maxit.se/media/22/pdf/betong/vagglagning.pdf
Fabian-Bom: There is a risk of moisture problems when materials are enclosed between two waterproof layers. If you don't want to remove your vapor barrier (which you don't want to do because it becomes untight with other building components unless you are a real skilled professional) during bathroom renovation, then you need to ensure that the bathroom is well-ventilated. The moist and warm air after a
Tovan: I have a sunroom with a door leading out from the kitchen/dining room. Along one of the short sides (the glazing starts 90 cm above the floor on the short sides) I built a simple bench 140x50 cm and 80 cm high using cabinet framework, countertop, etc., that were left over when I tore out the old kitchen. The front is covered with a nice fabric. In the cabinet, I then collect everything in
Fabian-Bom: Masonite moves. A movement joint is needed between the materials to avoid problems. You can fill it with soft sealant, for example. I would have plastered the entire wall with renovation plasterboard or regular plasterboard. I wouldn't have used masonite since plasterboard is better for all possible surface finishes you have indoors. I think you can get it reasonably good with a plasterboard wall
trojlee: :D What size of shelves is most suitable for my garage then?.... / M
anis16: Need tips on lumber yard/timber trade in the STH area that sells OBH oak/laminated oak boards for furniture making. Not so interested in buying "portion packed" oak boards at the department stores.
JanneL: No, I wouldn't buy a flat plot. I have a plot myself that slopes about 10 m with a nice view. I love it! :) I would choose Dorotherm. Now, I'm no engineer, but. you then have the possibility to reinforce both horizontally and vertically in the "building blocks". This combined with concrete I think should result in a very homogeneous and stable construction, especially considering that you will be
spocks_beard: Don't know if it's needed but I would have done it, can't ever be too good, right? :)
holmaren: Hello I have purchased concrete paving stones (40x40x5cm) to lay out on the patio and paths. Unfortunately, it turned out that ~25% have cracks on the underside. Some of the cracks are maybe "only" 5-10cm long while others are cracked straight across the entire width of the slab and even half the slab's thickness. Has anyone experienced this and if so, how did the supplier handle it (return
fredand44: Thank you so much!! Best regards, Fredrik
eddy: Okay, thanks for all the answers. I will probably try to build it up this fall or in the spring...
magnusss: I would recommend a chisel (costs 17kr at Biltema). The advantage of a chisel is that it has good weight and a guard so you don’t hit your fingers with the hammer. It also works well for chiseling in concrete.
kan_själv: [citat] Answer: no, not for a metal roof. You can put up a ridge board to make the ridge straight, but it's easier to stretch a string one cm above where the top of the ridge metal sheet should be, then just follow the string, and the ridge will be straight and nice.
BobbyEwing: Hello, I am in the process of building an enclosure for our cats adjacent to the garage. I want to install a cat flap in the wall so they can get in and out of the garage, where I have built a small room for them. However, I'm a bit unsure about what I need to consider before cutting into the wall. It's a newly built garage with wood paneling, so there is plastic, etc.; how should one go about
skogsingenjör: Manufacturers of glue-laminated beams/columns have designers who can quickly and easily calculate and dimension, contact them (through building supply stores, etc). Moelven, Setra, etc.
kdahlstedt: Tested with a regular metal drill bit (diameter 2) and my Dremel set at 30,000 RPM. It was like drilling through butter :) Addition: I have now finished drilling 1/4 of the table (approximately 900 holes). This took about 35 minutes (effective time).
DrömBygge: Yes, thanks for the tip. I have searched but haven't found anyone suggesting an online store, just about going down with a truck...
fredand44: Thank you so much for the answers! Best regards, Fredrik