Obtain the rules for visual strength grading of timber SS 23 01 20 or T-timber rules, learn what the terms and timber defects mean and how they look, use tape measure and ruler or calipers, note how the defects for each board fit with the respective class.
If done so, the timber should be well sorted into reasonably correct strength classes.
If done so, the timber should be well sorted into reasonably correct strength classes.
The triangular pieces that are left "over" during star cutting are used for things like records, among other things, mentioned further down on the link. Cracks appear regardless of how the tree is felled, and wind also causes damage to the trees even if they don't topple over. Then, if I, for example, have a final thinning, I wouldn't want the driver to "drag" against other trees, as I think it causes too much damage to the forest that should remain. Damaged timber becomes quite low quality.
Sure, I think it will hold with self-sawn timber every time. Often, people build much stronger than necessary, which can be beneficial when, a few years later, you put up a door, etc. But structural collapses are rarely encountered unless something violently stupid is done.
However, if you want it approved by external parties, this hardly matters even if it will last 1000 years. In that case, it's better to go with paneling or board cladding with what you have.
But as I recommended first, sell the timber; it's so damn simple!
The only thing I've seen that can be done well is wide paneling, meaning a panel cut from the entire width of a tree. This looks nice in certain places, like the den/balcony, etc.
However, if you want it approved by external parties, this hardly matters even if it will last 1000 years. In that case, it's better to go with paneling or board cladding with what you have.
But as I recommended first, sell the timber; it's so damn simple!
The only thing I've seen that can be done well is wide paneling, meaning a panel cut from the entire width of a tree. This looks nice in certain places, like the den/balcony, etc.
Most of it is now cut. We've had some pleasant days where I've been able to cut, and friends and family have taken care of the branches. So now it's felled and limbed but not cut to length. I thought I would handle that this week once I've really thought through the dimensions. It ended up being a few more trees than I initially thought. Around 100, I believe. But when I roughly calculate it, it doesn't feel like much in terms of timber. The panel should cover 220 square meters and with rough-cut timber, almost half will probably disappear in the overlap. So now I have to go out and calculate how many logs I've gathered in the right dimensions for the rough-cut. After that, I'm not sure how much will be left, but I plan to chat with the sawmill operator about it, and we'll see once we have everything collected. I've talked to him a bit, and he is pleasant and seems knowledgeable. He doesn't need my help at all, but I will be there anyway, mostly because I'm interested in how it works.
In addition, I've realized that I will never have the strength to load the timber with my old tractor and winch, so I will take help from a grapple loader trailer. And then the plot turned out quite nice, which is always pleasant...
In addition, I've realized that I will never have the strength to load the timber with my old tractor and winch, so I will take help from a grapple loader trailer. And then the plot turned out quite nice, which is always pleasant...
If you don't have a forest property and an F-tax certificate so that you can claim VAT etc., it's not a bad idea to saw the timber yourself and use it. Otherwise, you can buy yourself a grapple loader trailer with the money from the timber : )
I like how you think 79:an!
And I think very much the same way. But in this case, I need timber and not a trailer. The day I don't need timber but a trailer, I'll probably do that. Until then, I'll have to spend the money it costs to rent one... A trailer will surely be used on the farm in the future, but it's not so urgent right now. The next big effort will be a final harvest, and then I won't do anything except point and patch up my then damaged road.
And I think very much the same way. But in this case, I need timber and not a trailer. The day I don't need timber but a trailer, I'll probably do that. Until then, I'll have to spend the money it costs to rent one... A trailer will surely be used on the farm in the future, but it's not so urgent right now. The next big effort will be a final harvest, and then I won't do anything except point and patch up my then damaged road.
Otherwise, a lot of timber is used when maintaining the farm buildings : )
And then it's possible to lift the VAT on the invoice from the local sawmill too, that is if he pays taxes.
Not to mention all the firewood needed "at home" that is chopped every year... then it's good to have a crane.
I don't really see any direct profitability in my crane trailer either, but it saves your back and a lot of time, so I consider it worth it anyway. I have about 70 hectares of forest and I also tend to stand and point and watch, I mostly bought the trailer because I had a bit of money left over and didn't want to pay all of it in taxes.
And then it's possible to lift the VAT on the invoice from the local sawmill too, that is if he pays taxes.
Not to mention all the firewood needed "at home" that is chopped every year... then it's good to have a crane.
I don't really see any direct profitability in my crane trailer either, but it saves your back and a lot of time, so I consider it worth it anyway. I have about 70 hectares of forest and I also tend to stand and point and watch, I mostly bought the trailer because I had a bit of money left over and didn't want to pay all of it in taxes.
This sounds very interesting.79:an said:
I have never heard anyone talk about replacing construction timber in any object and certainly not after just 25 years. A house usually stands for 100 years and more. Replacing decayed wood in poorly built houses or where the roofs have not been checked, however, is nothing new. That has been done throughout history, just as decayed exterior panels and interior parts have been replaced due to water damage causing rot.
It would therefore be interesting to know which buyer it concerns and which companies/saws take such a lax approach to a load-bearing problem that they let quantity take precedence over quality. (In that case, their certification is loosely hanging for them.)
You can PM me an answer so not everyone has to find out. _________________
The Builder
Hello, cut most of it to 2"; the possibility of splitting it into boards exists later. Let it dry until midsummer with a roof overhead and well-piled. If it's well sawn, planing is not always necessary; sawn timber is stronger than planed! For instance, a joist must be adjusted after laying to be perfect, as planed wood is not always so straight. I also want to add that farm-sawn timber is not always so profitable, but it can be fun to participate in the sawing process. Circular saw is the most cost-effective way to saw; however, 1000:-/h sounds a bit much, more reasonable around 500-600:-/h.
Now I have finally finished everything and this is how it went:
I felled about 100 trees. Almost exclusively spruce. Since I worked so inefficiently, it took me a few days, but it was good work, and I went from being a happy amateur to mastering directional felling towards the end. I cut it into logs about 5.30 m long.
After that, I had a farmer with a tractor and a grapple trailer with me who collected three loads that he took to the sawmill 3 km away and one load of pulpwood that he drove down to the road. I was there running with the winch where he couldn't reach and sawed off branches I had missed. It took him about 10 hours (450kr/h).
At the sawmill, I chose to saw most of it into unedged paneling 25 mm thick. Partly because the logs had good dimensions, partly because that's what I was after, and partly because it becomes easier to sell if I have any leftover. Altogether, it became about 400 boards (some of which were so thick that we edged them) and strips. It took 11 hours (500kr/h).
After that, I had a few days of manual labor debarking boards. Altogether, it might have taken me 3 days with a bark knife.
Then the farmer drove the timber back to a meadow up on the farm. (2000
. And it took a day to stack it with a lot of strips and a tin roof.
In retrospect, I can summarize it like this:
It was a lot, A LOT of work. But definitely worth it if you like that kind of thing.
In pure money, the final bill will land around 10,000, after I get paid for the pulpwood. But I have spent over a week of my own labor, maybe two, and also I have used timber that I could have otherwise sold. Exactly how much money it is, I have a hard time calculating, but when I was in the forest, I roughly estimated that I have received unedged paneling for about 7 kr/m. This is if you don't count my labor input.
I probably won't do it again in the next 10 years, but I have learned a lot and it will turn out very nice.
/Daniel
I felled about 100 trees. Almost exclusively spruce. Since I worked so inefficiently, it took me a few days, but it was good work, and I went from being a happy amateur to mastering directional felling towards the end. I cut it into logs about 5.30 m long.
After that, I had a farmer with a tractor and a grapple trailer with me who collected three loads that he took to the sawmill 3 km away and one load of pulpwood that he drove down to the road. I was there running with the winch where he couldn't reach and sawed off branches I had missed. It took him about 10 hours (450kr/h).
At the sawmill, I chose to saw most of it into unedged paneling 25 mm thick. Partly because the logs had good dimensions, partly because that's what I was after, and partly because it becomes easier to sell if I have any leftover. Altogether, it became about 400 boards (some of which were so thick that we edged them) and strips. It took 11 hours (500kr/h).
After that, I had a few days of manual labor debarking boards. Altogether, it might have taken me 3 days with a bark knife.
Then the farmer drove the timber back to a meadow up on the farm. (2000
. And it took a day to stack it with a lot of strips and a tin roof.In retrospect, I can summarize it like this:
It was a lot, A LOT of work. But definitely worth it if you like that kind of thing.
In pure money, the final bill will land around 10,000, after I get paid for the pulpwood. But I have spent over a week of my own labor, maybe two, and also I have used timber that I could have otherwise sold. Exactly how much money it is, I have a hard time calculating, but when I was in the forest, I roughly estimated that I have received unedged paneling for about 7 kr/m. This is if you don't count my labor input.
I probably won't do it again in the next 10 years, but I have learned a lot and it will turn out very nice.
/Daniel
There is no bottom chord but a "tie rod".imported_Byggaren said:
Even a subframe functions as a drawbar in a roof truss. I am basing this on the general terms for the parts of a roof truss: rafter, collar beam, and subframe.Magnus_Redin said:
A standalone drawbar is typically made of round iron with a washer and nut on the outside of the wall in older buildings.
____________________
Byggaren