Hello!
We have a small agricultural property that we are going to build on. To create a nice plot around the new house, I'm going to cut down a lot of spruce this winter. I've talked to the local sawmill about taking the logs there to get the timber cut, and he claims that he can saw between 6 and 10 logs per hour and charges 1000:-/hour. I will be cutting down about 20 large spruces and 30 slightly smaller ones. I'll need all sorts of materials for the house, but what might be best to have locally sawn and what might be best to buy? Since I want rough-edged paneling, I assume it's perfect to source from my own forest. How about studs and tongue-and-groove? Flooring perhaps? Is there anything particular I should consider when cutting (apart from getting my dimensions right and otherwise adapting in the best way)? Is there anything I should be particularly clear about at the sawmill?
Appreciate any help
/Daniel
We have a small agricultural property that we are going to build on. To create a nice plot around the new house, I'm going to cut down a lot of spruce this winter. I've talked to the local sawmill about taking the logs there to get the timber cut, and he claims that he can saw between 6 and 10 logs per hour and charges 1000:-/hour. I will be cutting down about 20 large spruces and 30 slightly smaller ones. I'll need all sorts of materials for the house, but what might be best to have locally sawn and what might be best to buy? Since I want rough-edged paneling, I assume it's perfect to source from my own forest. How about studs and tongue-and-groove? Flooring perhaps? Is there anything particular I should consider when cutting (apart from getting my dimensions right and otherwise adapting in the best way)? Is there anything I should be particularly clear about at the sawmill?
Appreciate any help
/Daniel
Avoid contact with the ground as much as possible, but maybe you already knew that?
You usually want your joists planed, so the most sensible thing might be to let him saw boards and planks? I would probably have him cut most of it to 1 inch and some logs to 2 inches, which you can then split yourself as needed.
If it is a renovation of an old property, you often need some special dimensions, and in that case, I would adapt to them.
/Kent
You usually want your joists planed, so the most sensible thing might be to let him saw boards and planks? I would probably have him cut most of it to 1 inch and some logs to 2 inches, which you can then split yourself as needed.
If it is a renovation of an old property, you often need some special dimensions, and in that case, I would adapt to them.
/Kent
Hello and thanks for your replies!
Kent:
I know I should avoid contact with the ground, but now it’s a matter of winching them to the trailer since I don’t have a forwarder. How tricky is it? Will he reject a lot just because I've dragged the logs, do you think?
What would you use 2-inch for besides splitting or planing them?
Calle:
Cut during the days between Christmas, saw in February, March, and build in the summer. Do you think it will dry up by then? Extra long dimensions are good. I won’t forget that!
Kent:
I know I should avoid contact with the ground, but now it’s a matter of winching them to the trailer since I don’t have a forwarder. How tricky is it? Will he reject a lot just because I've dragged the logs, do you think?
What would you use 2-inch for besides splitting or planing them?
Calle:
Cut during the days between Christmas, saw in February, March, and build in the summer. Do you think it will dry up by then? Extra long dimensions are good. I won’t forget that!
As I see it, it's better to sell the timber and then buy the timber you need. Even though the timber at the lumberyards can be pure corkscrews, it's nothing compared to what your own boards can become if you don't dry them properly.
Trees are paying GOOD money now.
I got that advice myself and followed it, though the forest still stands
Trees are paying GOOD money now.
I got that advice myself and followed it, though the forest still stands
Mårtesgården>It probably depends entirely on how much debris gets pressed into the bark and if you drag the logs over an area where, for example, there is gravel, a resharpening costs quite a bit. Talk to him about this beforehand, it's quite bad to end up with logs that he doesn't want to saw.
Unedged two-inch is quite useful to cut down to strips, battens, etc...
Agree with v-g, it's often better to sell the trees and buy the timber. You avoid a lot of problems and save time. The hitch here is that it's a rather small amount.
Another solution could be to saw it yourself with, for example, a Solosåg, it doesn't improve the economy, but it's quite fun and if you have forestry property, it might be worthwhile in the longer perspective. The Timberjig is another alternative, but you'll have your work cut out with it for quite a while.
/Kent
Unedged two-inch is quite useful to cut down to strips, battens, etc...
Agree with v-g, it's often better to sell the trees and buy the timber. You avoid a lot of problems and save time. The hitch here is that it's a rather small amount.
Another solution could be to saw it yourself with, for example, a Solosåg, it doesn't improve the economy, but it's quite fun and if you have forestry property, it might be worthwhile in the longer perspective. The Timberjig is another alternative, but you'll have your work cut out with it for quite a while.
/Kent
Yes, I can sell it and sleep peacefully until summer, but I'm really tempted to knock on the facade and explain to the kids that the house is built from the trees that stood on the site.
And then, just like Kent says, it's a pretty small item.
I've thought about the solosåg, but I probably have to recognize my limitations there. Mostly in time and energy. Who knows what it would be like to live with me if I realize that I hate it and have two weeks of sawing left.
Many people say that it's not economically justifiable to cut it yourself and send it to the sawmill, but how can it not be? If we include my working hours, I can somewhat understand it but not entirely. And when it comes to the working hours in my case, I gladly donate these to be able to roam the woods.
But it would be interesting to see how people calculate when they say it's not economically justifiable...
The way I see it, the sawmill takes about 150:-/log, and then there’s some fuel for the tractor and the saw, oil, and chains.
If I were to calculate like a company, then my working hours and the machines should be included as well...
And then, just like Kent says, it's a pretty small item.
I've thought about the solosåg, but I probably have to recognize my limitations there. Mostly in time and energy. Who knows what it would be like to live with me if I realize that I hate it and have two weeks of sawing left.
Many people say that it's not economically justifiable to cut it yourself and send it to the sawmill, but how can it not be? If we include my working hours, I can somewhat understand it but not entirely. And when it comes to the working hours in my case, I gladly donate these to be able to roam the woods.
But it would be interesting to see how people calculate when they say it's not economically justifiable...
The way I see it, the sawmill takes about 150:-/log, and then there’s some fuel for the tractor and the saw, oil, and chains.
If I were to calculate like a company, then my working hours and the machines should be included as well...
Just wanted to add a little note, the "bonnsåg" I go to charges 350kr+m/h and he doesn't charge extra for sharpening the blade, just the hourly rate, though you need to be there yourself to help out.
If you know the dimensions and lengths you need when building, I think it's appropriate to saw for personal use because you can adjust the logs and get more out of the tree than just buying, for example, 4.5m pieces and wasting half a meter per board.
It's important to dry properly so it doesn't twist, but they should be able to tell you how to stack the lumber.
In addition, the log should be sawn based on how the wood looks and not just split it, I hope they know their stuff for 1000kr/h.
I drove 4 larch logs to another sawmill that handled slightly thicker lumber (85cm under the bark at the base end) and he charged 400kr/h without needing to help out yourself.
If you know the dimensions and lengths you need when building, I think it's appropriate to saw for personal use because you can adjust the logs and get more out of the tree than just buying, for example, 4.5m pieces and wasting half a meter per board.
It's important to dry properly so it doesn't twist, but they should be able to tell you how to stack the lumber.
In addition, the log should be sawn based on how the wood looks and not just split it, I hope they know their stuff for 1000kr/h.
I drove 4 larch logs to another sawmill that handled slightly thicker lumber (85cm under the bark at the base end) and he charged 400kr/h without needing to help out yourself.
Oh!
What a rascal! Could it be that it's about different capacity? My bonne could handle up to 9 logs an hour. Is it the same for you?
We haven't talked about me helping out yet, but I'd like to make sure it turns out the way I want...
Good insert 79:an!
What a rascal! Could it be that it's about different capacity? My bonne could handle up to 9 logs an hour. Is it the same for you?
We haven't talked about me helping out yet, but I'd like to make sure it turns out the way I want...
Good insert 79:an!
In and of itself, he probably has a bit more capacity than the saw I use, he might be using 2 or more blades, however, it should be that it goes faster to just saw 2x5" than small planks. Last time I went to the sawmill, I had about 12-14 logs, and it took 3 hours with one sharpening, but I mostly sawed 1x2" and just a little 2x5". He has an old säterbänk with just one blade.
Regarding the economy...
A lot depends on how well it is sawn and dried, if the dimensions aren't correct or if the timber twists, time just slips away when you later have to use the timber. Also, I for one don't want to frame with sawn timber and preferably see planed there.
Felling, limbing, cutting, transport to the saw, sawing, loading, transport home, handling the timber during drying... This takes a while and also why, as I mentioned, the solo saw, you avoid some work with transports and it’s actually quite fun to handle the whole process yourself. Call Logosol and see if there's a solo saw user in your area so you can try it out a little.
/Kent
A lot depends on how well it is sawn and dried, if the dimensions aren't correct or if the timber twists, time just slips away when you later have to use the timber. Also, I for one don't want to frame with sawn timber and preferably see planed there.
Felling, limbing, cutting, transport to the saw, sawing, loading, transport home, handling the timber during drying... This takes a while and also why, as I mentioned, the solo saw, you avoid some work with transports and it’s actually quite fun to handle the whole process yourself. Call Logosol and see if there's a solo saw user in your area so you can try it out a little.
/Kent
Manberg:
Thanks for the comment! Perhaps it's time to negotiate the price...
Snickarboden:
I understand your reasoning, and it was my original idea to saw it myself. It's about taking it to another level. Even more pride in the build and even more anxiety for the kids if they ever decide to sell it
However, I put solo sawing on hold for a while because I didn't want to bite off more than I could chew. There's so much else I have to get right during the build.
However, and here you are welcome to share your thoughts, I've been considering a planer from Logosol to refine after the village saw.
/Daniel
Thanks for the comment! Perhaps it's time to negotiate the price...
Snickarboden:
I understand your reasoning, and it was my original idea to saw it myself. It's about taking it to another level. Even more pride in the build and even more anxiety for the kids if they ever decide to sell it
However, I put solo sawing on hold for a while because I didn't want to bite off more than I could chew. There's so much else I have to get right during the build.
However, and here you are welcome to share your thoughts, I've been considering a planer from Logosol to refine after the village saw.
/Daniel
Is your saw man good at "seeing" what he can cut from the log, or does he just go for it? The amount of waste and the quality of the timber depend on whether he is skilled and meticulous. Many small-scale sawmills often also have a planer, edging machine, and some other fun tools as well. However, the timber should be dried before it's planed.
Another small aspect of the price is whether you dispose of the slabs yourself or if the person who saws them takes them. They work well as firewood otherwise. If there's a lot, it becomes fuelwood, which gives about 300kr/m3.
Instead, check if there is a used planer on a website like Blocket; it's a bit difficult to see the profitability in buying a new planer.
I myself also have a small forestry operation with about 60ha productive forest land and have considered a band saw to cut myself, but have abandoned that idea for now; you can get quite a lot cut for 30-40k.
But as you say, it's more fun, and there’s a certain pride in being able to use and process your own timber, "the timber in this house is something I've personally handpicked in the forest, then harvested and cut before I built everything myself." : )
Another small aspect of the price is whether you dispose of the slabs yourself or if the person who saws them takes them. They work well as firewood otherwise. If there's a lot, it becomes fuelwood, which gives about 300kr/m3.
Instead, check if there is a used planer on a website like Blocket; it's a bit difficult to see the profitability in buying a new planer.
I myself also have a small forestry operation with about 60ha productive forest land and have considered a band saw to cut myself, but have abandoned that idea for now; you can get quite a lot cut for 30-40k.
But as you say, it's more fun, and there’s a certain pride in being able to use and process your own timber, "the timber in this house is something I've personally handpicked in the forest, then harvested and cut before I built everything myself." : )
Very good stuff, 79!
I've actually never seen them saw. I've only talked to them over the phone. But they have beaten out the other 3 sawmills that were in the area 5 years ago and bought up their equipment. I think I should simply take a little field trip there! Then I'll straighten out all the tips I've gotten from you. We haven't talked about the bakers either...
It's precisely because the timber needs to be dried that I'm considering a planer. Then I can take it home after we've sawn it, and it can dry at home until it's needed, and then I'll plane it as needed. The reasonably cheap solo planer also splits, so we don't have to be too picky about the saw. Otherwise, it can dry at the saw, if they approve it, or I have to transport the timber back and forth if I'm going to plane it there.
We only have 30 ha, and it's clear that it would be fun to have our own saw. But just as you say, you can get a lot of sawing done for the same money...
Take care!
I've actually never seen them saw. I've only talked to them over the phone. But they have beaten out the other 3 sawmills that were in the area 5 years ago and bought up their equipment. I think I should simply take a little field trip there! Then I'll straighten out all the tips I've gotten from you. We haven't talked about the bakers either...
It's precisely because the timber needs to be dried that I'm considering a planer. Then I can take it home after we've sawn it, and it can dry at home until it's needed, and then I'll plane it as needed. The reasonably cheap solo planer also splits, so we don't have to be too picky about the saw. Otherwise, it can dry at the saw, if they approve it, or I have to transport the timber back and forth if I'm going to plane it there.
We only have 30 ha, and it's clear that it would be fun to have our own saw. But just as you say, you can get a lot of sawing done for the same money...
Take care!