Since the garage roof is leaking, new roofing felt or sheet metal will be laid after replacing the rotten boards, I'm considering using the roof as a terrace. However, when walking around, it doesn't feel all that stable, which might be due to these poorly placed beams. It surely holds up but I wondered if they could be strengthened or even replaced.
I have a magazine with many stabilization solutions, so it should be possible to make this roof a bit stronger/more stable.
Or are these beams strong enough, so any ideas like placing multiple boards vertically against the masonite between the upper and lower board to create small grid-like sections - would just be unnecessary?
I have a magazine with many stabilization solutions, so it should be possible to make this roof a bit stronger/more stable.
Or are these beams strong enough, so any ideas like placing multiple boards vertically against the masonite between the upper and lower board to create small grid-like sections - would just be unnecessary?
Hello Yrrol.
Hard to see how they are built. Is it 2"4 with masonite in between? Unusual!
I would probably ignore them.
Throw in an extra ceiling/floor joist between these instead. An extra 2"8 in height between each one, and it will probably be stable.
cc 60 is more standard when it comes to floor joists.
Bye!
Johan
Hard to see how they are built. Is it 2"4 with masonite in between? Unusual!
I would probably ignore them.
Throw in an extra ceiling/floor joist between these instead. An extra 2"8 in height between each one, and it will probably be stable.
cc 60 is more standard when it comes to floor joists.
Bye!
Johan
Looks like it's a wooden variant of an I-beam. They have a specific name but I can't think of it right now. Since it is the height of the construction that provides the strength, they are probably much stronger than a 2X8"
These are common masonite beams. Factory-made and not something a carpenter came up with themselves. Attaching vertical boards won't help. Probably the opposite since the nails you use to attach your boards damage the flanges.
The reason it feels flimsy to walk on is that it's not meant to be walked on. It would be the same if it were built with regular wooden joists. Moreover, there's only roof decking between the roof trusses that likely bends quite a bit when you step in the middle.
If you want to reinforce it so you can use the roof as a terrace, you'll either need to add extra trusses and support down to the ground in the wall, or build the terrace freestanding on top of the existing roof. The latter might be preferable since you won't be making any holes in the roof that need sealing.
The reason it feels flimsy to walk on is that it's not meant to be walked on. It would be the same if it were built with regular wooden joists. Moreover, there's only roof decking between the roof trusses that likely bends quite a bit when you step in the middle.
If you want to reinforce it so you can use the roof as a terrace, you'll either need to add extra trusses and support down to the ground in the wall, or build the terrace freestanding on top of the existing roof. The latter might be preferable since you won't be making any holes in the roof that need sealing.
But - you can walk on it, do you think you are tempting fate if you have it as a terrace without reinforcement and just live with the fact that it's not rock hard?
Fribärande sounded a bit advanced, or?
Your problem is that a floor needs c/c 60 as Korp-Johan wrote, if the råspånt in the ceiling is in good condition, it will certainly hold to walk and sit on, but who knows what guests and children will do on a terrace? If you are going to fix the ceiling anyway, I would place new roof trusses between the existing ones with support down to the ground before making a terrace on the roof.
If you are going to fix the ceiling anyway, I would place new roof trusses between the existing ones with support down to the ground before making a terrace on the roof.oh sigh, no rooftop terrace, no cellar... jeez such a stingy half-done construction this turned out to be.. but shame on the one who gives up
If it is a flat roof that can handle the weight of snow, I don't see how a wooden deck of maybe 200 kilos would break it. Wet snow weighs many tons. As long as you don't have a big party up there in the winter when there's wet snow, I don't see why it wouldn't hold.
But to add some stability to the whole thing, you could complement it with extra roof beams and perhaps reinforce the wall to support the additional weight that the modification ultimately entails. This is to be on the safe side since the existing structure is somewhat water-damaged.
But to add some stability to the whole thing, you could complement it with extra roof beams and perhaps reinforce the wall to support the additional weight that the modification ultimately entails. This is to be on the safe side since the existing structure is somewhat water-damaged.
I agree with v-g's post. If only everyone could understand what you mean, and not what you write or say!
Don't lose heart, it will surely get stable enough for you to have a "roll in the wet snow" party!
Have fun!
Johan
Don't lose heart, it will surely get stable enough for you to have a "roll in the wet snow" party!
Have fun!
Johan
Snow may indeed weigh a lot, but it rarely hops around.
As others have said: Insert beams at half the distance, and you'll have no problem getting a stable floor. The outer wall will probably be fine as it is, but you should check that.
It might be a bit tricky to get a waterproof roof that can withstand walking on, scraping with chairs, etc., but you can probably solve that.
The reason I mentioned cantilevered construction was mostly because I've seen such solutions. The major advantage there has been that the roofing felt/sheet metal is left untouched, which isn't a problem for you since it's already gone.
As others have said: Insert beams at half the distance, and you'll have no problem getting a stable floor. The outer wall will probably be fine as it is, but you should check that.
It might be a bit tricky to get a waterproof roof that can withstand walking on, scraping with chairs, etc., but you can probably solve that.
The reason I mentioned cantilevered construction was mostly because I've seen such solutions. The major advantage there has been that the roofing felt/sheet metal is left untouched, which isn't a problem for you since it's already gone.